Failed Emissions, need advise with eManage Blue Tune

[Overboosted]

Originally Posted by beckerb

If you say so. It does very little good to tune a car for WOT only no matter what you pay. I have never heard of a tuner that did WOT only...but I guess there might be some out there - Not sure what good it does.

If you are not experienced related to tuning it is not that easy and if you screw up it can cause some damage....

I am just guessing as why the low throttle is so rich, I dont know for sure. Alot of people only dyno tune wot as they tune low throttle on the street.

Tunning low throttle is pretty easy really with a logger, just add or remove fuel till you get close to 100% trims. It's getting the hang of the emanage which will be more difficult but once he uses it a bit it will help him in the long run too.

Also it doesent have to be perfect, just get it close and the ecu can compensate for the rest.

[Manj]

Originally Posted by beckerb

Injector Pulse Width:
@ 2000rpms = 4.60ms
@ 4700rpms = 11.28ms
@ 5200rpms = 8.95ms

Knock Sum = is always shows 0

Timing advance:
@ 750rpms = 25*
@ 2000rpms = 36*
@ 4750rpms = 47*

You need to get a new tunner. With 660cc injectors your pulse width appears way too high at 4700 and 5200- you are dumping fuel and have to be runnig super rich - I dont know anyone who would knowing tune an 3S to 11.8 A/F. It should be running somewhere around 14.5 for crusing and idling. Also your timing appears too agressive - Are you sure you mean 47 degrees BTC at 4750 ?

I took the car for a drive and logged the results with the HHH logger. On the graph, it stated 47* @ 4750rpms.

This may be a stupid question, and feel free to shoot me down. Can the AF be tuned to different values accross the power band?
The reason I ask is, I've been told to tune the car at 11.3 - 11.6, and now your saying at idle/cruise, it should be 14.5

[Manj]

Originally Posted by BlackStealth

Running extremely rich at idle/cruise will cause other problems if you don't fix it right away. One, your narrowband o2 sensors will get carbon build up and eventually fail. Two, your spark plugs will foul. Three, excess fuel will find its way into your oil and lead to bearing failure !!

So get this fixed ASAP.

I've only driven the car twice since I've got it back, once to the emission shop and the other to get results with the data logger.

I will be making an appointment with the tuner next week to get the car re-tuned.

I'm trying to get a little educated with the whole tuning before I meet the tuner, at least this way I can question him about what he did on my car.

[BlackStealth]

Yes the AFR should be tuned differently under different engine loads and RPMs.

[Overboosted]

Originally Posted by Manj

I took the car for a drive and logged the results with the HHH logger. On the graph, it stated 47* @ 4750rpms.

This may be a stupid question, and feel free to shoot me down. Can the AF be tuned to different values accross the power band?
The reason I ask is, I've been told to tune the car at 11.3 - 11.6, and now your saying at idle/cruise, it should be 14.5

Wow, ok I would say ignore the last post with the pic as that will probably confuse the hell out of you.

I'll see if I can explain it for you. 14.7:1 is a stoichiometric burn basically it is the best burn for emmisions purposes but once you go into boost this is a dangerous afr and would completly destroy your engine. So the ecu from the factory will richen the mixture to keep your car from puking pistons when you go into boost. When boosting 11.0-11.5 is a good tune, anything richer will be too much fuel.

Now how do you know when to tune for one afr or the other you may ask? Easy, everyday driving is 14.7:1 at all rpm's in all gears (it does change slighly as you go into higher rpm's but I wont get into that, you could refer to the table above if you want). The only time you want 11.0-11.5 is when you hammer on the gas and go into full boost.

Now getting back to your current situation you do not need to worry about tunning for 11.0-11.5 since your not toughing anything to do with boost (please dont touch it ) since it's fine. All you need to do is tune everyday driving which is the 14.7:1. Now since you do not have the means of seeing the exact afr you can completly forget about any numbers I have spoken about as it will have no relation to the way you tune.

All you will do is remove fuel on the emanage on the low load/rpm tables to get your trims around 100%(approx 14.7:1), thats all you need to worry about.

If you still dont really understand the afr concept thats fine as you dont really need to know it to do what you need to do but I would highly recommend you read up on it more before you try to change any tunning on your own (without someone guiding you).

[Manj]

I showed my log files to the tuner and he said he'll redo the tune up.
He doesn't have any way to data log stealth's/3000GT's as he never works on them. When he saw the fuel trims, he knew something was wrong.
The car will be ready in a few weeks after my vacation to sunny south in Florida

thanks for all the help, I'll post my dyno chart when done

[Overboosted]

Right on man! You will get the dyno time cost back with gas savings anyways.

[Manj]

I had a chance to go back to the tuner.
We sat down together with the car on the dyno and he educated me on how to tune.

Unfortunetly, the tune he did was the best he could do cause he said my fuel trim can not be adjusted as my 02's are reading way to high. They are always reading at 0.8 - 0.9 which is super rich and dumps so much fuel
When I get new 02 sensors, then my tune will be better.

Now I gotta order some 02's.

[Overboosted]

What? This is for a cruising tune right? .8 - .9 sounds like the narrowband reading under full boost/open loop. The stock o2 sensor should be cycling real fast back and forth never staying in one spot if your looking at the voltage. If your looking at the datalogger than the o2 trims should be hovering around 100%.

[cbehnken]

Originally Posted by BlackStealth

Yes the AFR should be tuned differently under different engine loads and RPMs.

this is part of the reason that some people have crazy correction factors. People try to shoot for 11.0 : 1 at 3000 RPM and the factory map is no where near that.

Even some respectede tuners are trying to hit 10.5-11:1 (.96 narrowband approx) across the board. No clue why as the engine doesn't need that much fuel at low revs.