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#11 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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are your 02's cycling at idle and while you are driving non WOT?
If one or both of your 02's need replacing that could be your problem. As others have mentioned you just have to pull fuel from your low throttle settings at rpm points up to 2500 or so. You could literally have the car almost stumbling into the lane. Once you pass you can push back up some so its driveable without stumbling.
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His - Red 93 RT/tt
Mods: Hallman's MBC @ 16 psi, turbo XS type H BOV, stillen dp, custom exhaust, Spec stage 2 clutch, RPS FW, 3sx lightweight crank pulley, BCP7RES-11 @ .030 gap, autometer gauges, slightly gutted mas, dsm SMIC's, ACPT 1 piece CFDS, Tein S springs, pte 580 inj's, safc neo/SITC, 13t's, hotwired walbro, maximal performance solid motor mounts, DR plenum spacer. Hers - BPU Green 94 vr4 |
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#12 (permalink) | |
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Dont f#@k with me I own a
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Quote:
As Kibwe Walker stated fuel only needs to be removed from the low settings. I am not sure what you mean by "beefed up tune" but when you go into boost at wot the ecu automatically adjusts for this so there's no need for 2 tunes. Unless your throwing in some race gas at the track there is only one way to tune and thats 14.7 or a bit leaner under low load and 11-11.5 at wot. Without a wideband basically you try to get your fuel trims as close to 100% on the logger as possible and aslong as your o2 sensors are good and your fuel pressure doesent change this will keep your tune pretty much in cheak.
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#13 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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I logged the car with the HHH loggers.
Fuel Trim Low = 71.8% Fuel Trim Middle = 78.1% Fuel Trim High = 99.2% Both o2 sensors show the same results. Driving between 3000 and 5000 rpms, the o2's are at 0.5v and 0.9v Oxygen Feedback Trim is steady at 100% Injector Pulse Width: @ 2000rpms = 4.60ms @ 4700rpms = 11.28ms @ 5200rpms = 8.95ms Knock Sum = is always shows 0 Timing advance: @ 750rpms = 25* @ 2000rpms = 36* @ 4750rpms = 47* I hope this helps. Driving the car with the windows down is not nice, all you can smell is exhaust smell ![]()
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Manj's Wanna-Be GTO
Complete Custom Body Kit and Paint (Viper Red with 3 pearls), 19T-HL with 7* clip, FMIC, Greddy BOV , eManage Blue, Denso 660's, 18" Kosie Sniper Rims, HKS Intake, 3" Downpipe, Testpipe and MagnaFlow Exhaust system, ACT Clutch, Eibach Springs, NGK Plugs and Wires, Autometer boost and Air/Fuel gauges, Supra Fuel Pump, EGR Block Off Plates, Pioneer Deck, 3 Boswick Amps, 2 12" Boswick Subs, JL Front and Mids...... Can't forget the Bat Man floor mats ![]() ![]() |
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#14 (permalink) |
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Dont f#@k with me I own a
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There is your problem right there. You mid and low trim should be about the same as your high, close to 100%. All you have to do is remove fuel till your trims correct themself. This will also save you cash at the pump so win win win
![]() Also your o2 trim should cycle at all times after the engine has fully warmed up, if it doesent than one or both of your o2 sensors might be on there way out. What I would do is reset the ecu (unplug the batt for 30 seconds) setting the trims back to 100% than remove 5% (only on the low setting, remember dont touch wot) fuel and see where that gets you. You will have to watch you trims closely till you get it right so if you see the trims starting to drop you can remove fuel to compensate. Than at the next emmisions appt just before I go in I would remove an extra 5% fuel just to be on the safe side than add it back after you pass. Hope this helps, good luck Last edited by Overboosted : 07-03-2008 at 08:08 PM. |
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#15 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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Thanks for the updates...
I don't have the eManage Support Tools software to do the changes. I wanted to the tuner to do all the settings for me as I am not anywhere close to being experienced in tuning. I was hoping for the black box approach, where all the work is done without me knowing what gets done, and I get to drive a nicely tuned car. Each time any of the settings is changed for fuel, I'm guessing it would require you to change the AF and other settings? I don't have a WBo2 or NBo2 to check the AFR, to change the fuel trims, is this needed? |
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#16 (permalink) |
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Dont f#@k with me I own a
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All cars have a nbo2 stock and for your cruising tune thats all you need. It's easier than you think....really.
I don't know what eManage Support Tools software is since I have never used emanage but I can only imagine you have the software for the emanage since it's sold with the emanage. All you need to do is install the software on a laptop and connect the laptop to the emanage. From there you will find the low load/rpm setting and remove fuel till your datalogger shows the trims chilling around 100%. Like stated before I have personally never used emanage before so I couldent give you a step by step but I am sure someone else who has used it could guide you throught the whole process. Seriously it's dead easy to do **edit: Yes it would change your afr when you adjust the fuel but this is what you want since your running pig rich cruising around causing you to fail emmisions so you need to lean out the afr. Your afr would only change under the low load/rpm though, you will not be touching the high/wot settings thus your dyno tune will not change. I am thinking they tuned your car for only wot and not cruising, thats why your so rich and failing emmisions. All you are doing is completing the tune. Again your boost afr will not change. Last edited by Overboosted : 07-04-2008 at 10:52 AM. |
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#17 (permalink) |
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Forum user
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Injector Pulse Width:
@ 2000rpms = 4.60ms @ 4700rpms = 11.28ms @ 5200rpms = 8.95ms Knock Sum = is always shows 0 Timing advance: @ 750rpms = 25* @ 2000rpms = 36* @ 4750rpms = 47* You need to get a new tunner. With 660cc injectors your pulse width appears way too high at 4700 and 5200- you are dumping fuel and have to be runnig super rich - I dont know anyone who would knowing tune an 3S to 11.8 A/F. It should be running somewhere around 14.5 for crusing and idling. Also your timing appears too agressive - Are you sure you mean 47 degrees BTC at 4750 ?
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#18 (permalink) |
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Dont f#@k with me I own a
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When he is talking about 11.8:1 thats what the tuners tuned wot which is probably a bit lean but if he has no knock there's nothing wrong with it. The tuners did not address regular cruising which is apparent in his trims and emmisions test.
The timing and injector Pulse that he showed are for cruising so there irrelevant for the most part. His timing is also probably showing higher on the HHH than it really is. If his tuner got him 11.8 at 16.5 psi with zero knock he did a great job and I would take my car to his if it was at all possible he just didn't address cruising which I am sure is reflected in the cost of the tune. All you need to do Manj is lean out low throttle and your set, everything else is perfect for the mean time. I can guide you through tuning if you want, once you get to the adjustment screen all piggyback's are pretty universal. Once you get the hang of tuning then you will see how easy it is and maybe you could richen up your wot settings a little to get closer to the 11:3 you stated you want, that would make a little room for error at wot also. |
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#19 (permalink) | |
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Forum user
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Quote:
If you are not experienced related to tuning it is not that easy and if you screw up it can cause some damage.... |
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#20 (permalink) |
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Verified Seller
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Running extremely rich at idle/cruise will cause other problems if you don't fix it right away. One, your narrowband o2 sensors will get carbon build up and eventually fail. Two, your spark plugs will foul. Three, excess fuel will find its way into your oil and lead to bearing failure !!
So get this fixed ASAP. |
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