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#1 (permalink) |
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Wrks on car btwn classes
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I just wanted some approximate setting for the arc-2 with 4 inch mas, dr500, 550cc injectors, and walbro fuel pump. I realize everybodys car is not the same but i just need something close so i can drive to a dyno. Thanks
Jay
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#2 (permalink) |
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Someone else's mistakes
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I have dr650's with an arc2. My settings are -2 Low, -8 Mid, High +6, and accel +1. I am running 17psi boost. I have 550cc's. You could probably run with the high a little lower depending on boost. But that should get you running.
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#4 (permalink) |
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Wrks on car btwn classes
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well i wired it up but it doesnt seem to be working. On my ecu i think the power wire is red/black and ground is black. I have a 93 but my ecu pins matched that of an obd1 94-99.
The TPS pin shown on the diagram doesnt go anywhere, correct? The black wire connected between the mas harness and arc2 has to be teed off to the ecu ground, correct? I say its not working because when the car was running i was trying to change the setting but wasnt really making a difference. I used Jeffs Lucius settings, the basic settings provided by the instructions, and venetrex. The car is still behaving the same way. Idling real low or stalling and running rich as hell. |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Someone else's mistakes
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DEpending on how old you arc is will depend on where the yellow wire goes. Does your check engine light come on??? If it does your yellow wire is not making a good conn. I had to connect mine to the 12v power of the ECU, same as red wire to make the accel function work correctly at idle. THe yellow wire must be connected, I got my car with a bad conn there and changed injectors thinking that was the trouble. What are using for splices? Snap splices are garbage. I use this connector made by AMP, called pic a bond, a telephone tool. You can find them on E-bay or thru AMP, but they are expensive, I should probably do a write up on this, they work great, no stripping necessary. Hope this helps.
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#6 (permalink) |
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Wrks on car btwn classes
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I dont know what you call the connectors but they are blue with the silver thing on the top that slides down and splices the wire automatically.
They are two RED/BLACK wires so i am guessing those are the two power wires. Although on the instructions its says the wire is RED. I forgot the pin numbers but they are on the the harness with 13 pins and are located on the second to last two pins. |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Someone else's mistakes
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I don't know about the exact ecu pins and color codes of out ecu wiring, see stealth316.com for that. What I do know is the arc will not work if the connections are bad. Those connectors you described are the (snap splice) variety. You hve to verify that they actually pierced the wire. You can check with an ohm meter and stap the wire(carefully) with the points on the end of the leads and check for continuity thru the splice. Are you getting a CEL???
t should come on and then go off. Mine came on, went off and came back on again after about 1 minute or so and it was entirely due to the yellow wire going to the arc2 not making a good conn. |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Wrks on car btwn classes
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well rewired everything over its still not working. Somewhere i read that the some later models require the yellow wire from the ARC2 to be connected to a +12V power source (such as the ARC2 red wire), rather than the IPS pin on the ECU
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