AEM Ultimate Resource Thread>>>>

[HilbillyHomeboy]

The readings being off like that is very common. AEM is aware of it and is working on all new MAP sensors.

Jeremy

[mjannusch]

Originally Posted by HydeDW

Seems like a couple place were to be suspect:
a) The Fuel Map does not match the characteristics of RC550s
b) Fuel Pressure is to low - not what it should be
c) The "O2 FB Rich Limit" value is grossly too low
d) The MicroSec/bit value as mutiplier to the Fuel Map Raw value is too low
e) What other 'levers' are available to adjust fuel delivery? (after warmup)

Are you actually changing the fuel map to try to compensate for this problem, or are you just assuming that the map is correct? Seems to me you should just give the car more fuel, or am I missing something here?

[HydeDW]

Originally Posted by mjannusch

Are you actually changing the fuel map to try to compensate for this problem, or are you just assuming that the map is correct? Seems to me you should just give the car more fuel, or am I missing something here?

I am assuming the Fuel MAP is correct (from an AEM Wizard point of view at least)

I was seeking the best method to deliver more fuel when I discovered the Microbit/Sec value (Option); the fuel Map raw multiplier. After I bumped that up by +25 (from 40 to 65), the O2's came into alignment with the O2 targets.

At this point, I do not know if I took the best and most appropriate approach or if I should be looking and doing it some other way...such as direct modification of Fuel Map raw values? or something else? The reason I suspect something else is because your statement "Seems to me you should just give the car more fuel" means there is some no brainer way of doing this that I'm missing.

I took her out last night on maiden voyage. Boost only permitted to 6PSI for now. Logs say O2's seem reasonably ok under low to moderate load..possibly a bit rich but I'm fine with that for now until I can examine more.

I see some O2 balance anomalies and moderate dissimilar O2 feedback between right and left bank - I'll write about what I'm seeing there later

[HydeDW]

Originally Posted by mehlosTT

It seems possibly_that you just need to re-do the Idle vs Coolant temp table. Set the 500 through 1500 rpm cells with the same ISC percentage open..then adjust as you did before at initial setup, by raising or lowering the value till she reads close to 800 rpms. Then check what the AFR's are doing as you change the value, which is adjusting the intake idle by-pass needed to idle.

Thanks..I believe I get the concept around your thinking. I'll gve that a look.

[enollava]

Ben (or anyone)

We loaded the base map that you sent me and the car started but it has a couple of issues. One: it has a prolem idling after starting. It will slowly die after the intial start. We've tried to give it gas to keep it going but it dies quicker.

Second: the wideband O2 is not powering up. We wired it up like my buddy's car (red to the ignition pin on the ECU, black to ground, white to the old O2 sensor pin 76, and the blue not used. His works great.

Your thoughts (or anyones) would be very appreciated on both issues

Rico

[HydeDW]

Originally Posted by enollava

Ben (or anyone)

"red to the ignition pin on the ECU"
Rico

I think you want that to switched 12V power. Possibly one of the ECU pins provides that? Which pin you using?

I'm not sure where others typically get that power feed from. I have my own Ign switched power circuit fed direct from battery into a power distribution/fuse block. I then run individual drops for any add-on components from there.

[enollava]

Originally Posted by HydeDW

I think you want that to switched 12V power. Possibly one of the ECU pins provides that? Which pin you using?

I'm not sure where others typically get that power feed from. I have my own Ign switched power circuit fed direct from battery into a power distribution/fuse block. I then run individual drops for any add-on components from there.

We were not prepared for anything as nice as your setup. He wired his red wire into pin 82 (ignition switch) on the ECU, the white wire to pin 76 (left bank O2 sensor) and black wire to a bolt on the body (not ECU). His works fine. We're going to check all connections to see if maybe something came undone.

We got the car idling now but cannot get the radiotor fans to come on. Any idea there?

[enollava]

found the O2 gauge problem - it was the power line into pin 82 - it was not totally connected.

Still got the problems with the radiator fans not coming on. Any idea there?

[pengulns2001]

i know what it is, send me the map ill fix it and send it back, its for the wrong year my mistake if your using my map thats my mistake, they have different settings, alternatively do a compare function with the basemap for your year car and change everything related to your fans

[HydeDW]

Originally Posted by enollava

Still got the problems with the radiator fans not coming on. Any idea there?

You might wish to check the Configurable Outputs. I'm curious what you see for settings there.

Go to the menu Options|Configure Outputs. The Low side outputs below can selected.
LS2 - (EMS Pin21) low speed fan
LS9 - (EMS Pin20) high speed fan

"Basic Activation" is not checked (set on) for my configuration for either of the above. My Radiator fan does work however but I have not verified if there is activation of a Low Speed and High Speed fan operation occuring. It may just only be turning on and off right now based upon coolant temps.

If you select the "Functions" Tab (the other is "Outputs"), there is a "Rad Fan" function. Mine are set to ON above 187F and Off below 178F.

I don't know if the above is helpful or not..? I'm new at this.
Also.. I'm using V1.19 and have no idea if prior version/releases look the same as I decribed.