AEM Ultimate Resource Thread>>>>

[HydeDW]

Originally Posted by 3r tech

In general you should be able to have your AEM tuned from idle to ready to go in a dyno session or two, assuming you have a good tuner and dyno operator. As an example, I recently tuned a 1JZ swapped into a Mk3 Supra running a 2JZ Mk4 AEM ecu. In about three hours we had the car reasonbly well tuned to low boost. As another example I tuned a 2G GSX, very highly modified, from install to idle in 15 minutes, and full power dyno runs in an hour, and tuned better than it had been on DSMlink in two hours.
I am not sure why so many seem to think it takes forever to get a car running well with AEM. While AEm is a complex tuning tool and has many features that can take some time to perfect, a car can be safely tuned and running extremely well in a short amount of time. If you need help, feel free to ask, I am alsways willing to do what I can.

edit- your 13ts will flow more air at 12psi than 9b,s so be prepared to dyno the car to make sure it is safe.

Yes - the higher flow is my concern. Since I'd not be running any A/F management (except OEM) and there is no data logging, I don't know what quantifiable info the Dyno run woud provide. Well...I actually have been running dual AEM WBO2 sensors for visual input purposes while still stock but never pursued connection of the white analog leads to log anything.

Each 20min sesssion at an HPDE is a balls-2-wall circumstance. I have this weekend to finish getting ready so time is short. I'm risk averse so if I determine there is probable risk of frying my engine, I'll postpose and forfeit the cost of registration. Much cheaper in the end compared to the alternative.
Dan
97VR4

[3r tech]

Originally Posted by HydeDW

Yes - the higher flow is my concern. Since I'd not be running any A/F management (except OEM) and there is no data logging, I don't know what quantifiable info the Dyno run woud provide. Well...I actually have been running dual AEM WBO2 sensors for visual input purposes while still stock but never pursued connection of the white analog leads to log anything.

Each 20min sesssion at an HPDE is a balls-2-wall circumstance. I have this weekend to finish getting ready so time is short. I'm risk averse so if I determine there is probable risk of frying my engine, I'll postpose and forfeit the cost of registration. Much cheaper in the end compared to the alternative.
Dan
97VR4

With over 16 years in various forms of road racing, I am well aware of what an HPDE is. If I were you I would get the car on AEM and get it to the dyno and tuned. If you need help feel free to ask.

[HydeDW]

Well...this is a crummy circumstance. I have decided to move forward with the AEM install this weekend. BUT..

The AEM Forum appears to be down/unavailable - some domain hosting issue or other. And no idication of when it might come available either.

Was trying to research/revisit wiring and plumbing information for the:
GM IAT
GM 3.0 MAP
GM EBC

"Think" I have the electrical info. Was seeking where folks typically plumbed/tapped for the IAT and MAP.

Figure at this time:
* the IAT will go in the Y-pipe (have Dejon pipes)
* the MAP sensor ?

Dan
97VR4

[xwire]

IAT right before throttle body

MAP after throttle body on vacuum source off of engine. the vacuum nipple right above the throttle cable in the back makes for a good spot

[HydeDW]

Originally Posted by xwire

IAT right before throttle body

MAP after throttle body on vacuum source off of engine. the vacuum nipple right above the throttle cable in the back makes for a good spot

Thanks - Need to go get what looks like a 5/8" NPT thread tap for that GM IAT sensor (road trip to hardware store needed)

I found this exerpt from here (nice info): http://mjannusch.home.comcast.net/aemfaq/index.htm

"If you are installing a 3-Bar GM MAP sensor, wire "A" should be connected to the Black TPS sensor wire (ground), wire "B" connects to the ECU EGR pin for your model year car (pin 53 or pin 73). Wire "C" should be teed into the Green/Yellow striped TPS sensor wire (+5V).

Questions:
1) Using PIN 73 (97 yr) seems odd as it is already occupied/used by the Right Bank O2 sensor (the one in down pipe). Does one discontinue using the down pipe O2 sensors?
a) If YES, then it seems I could just unplug those and tap into this particular Right Bank O2 sensor lead?

My existing AEM WB02 sensors are installed with their own own bungs.
It looks like since the white leads on the AEM units plug into pins 75 and 76 that I will also be discontinuing use of (unplugging) both EOM Front O2 sensors as well?

Is the above corrrect?...that the AEM ECU does not require use of any of the OEM O2 sensors if set up to make use of the AEM WB02s?

[BAdAzZV8]

What I did was T the boost gauge and MAP sensor off of the back of the plenum. I know it probably doesn't make much difference, but now I know my MAP sensor sees the same boost reading as my boost gauge.

You do not use stock O2's with AEM.

[slava]

Originally Posted by HydeDW

Thanks - Need to go get what looks like a 1/2" NPT thread tap for that GM IAT sensor (road trip to hardware store needed)

I found this exerpt from here (nice info): http://mjannusch.home.comcast.net/aemfaq/index.htm

"If you are installing a 3-Bar GM MAP sensor, wire "A" should be connected to the Black TPS sensor wire (ground), wire "B" connects to the ECU EGR pin for your model year car (pin 53 or pin 73). Wire "C" should be teed into the Green/Yellow striped TPS sensor wire (+5V).

Questions:
1) Using PIN 73 (97 yr) seems odd as it is already occupied/used by the Right Bank O2 sensor (the one in down pipe). Does one discontinue using the down pipe O2 sensors?
a) If YES, then it seems I could just unplug those and tap into this particular Right Bank O2 sensor lead?

My existing AEM WB02 sensors are installed with their own own bungs.
It looks like since the white leads on the AEM units plug into pins 75 and 76 that I will also be discontinuing use of (unplugging) both EOM Front O2 sensors as well?

Is the above corrrect?...that the AEM ECU does not require use of any of the OEM O2 sensors if set up to make use of the AEM WB02s?

I have 97 also.
You can find map,iat install loc pictures on page 41 of this thread.
1. yes, 73, I ran wire and did not use stock o2 wires but you can.
Yes, disconnect front o2 sensors, 75,76 are correct for WB.

[HydeDW]

Electrical connections for the GM Elect Boost Control?
GM PART # 1997152

I printed a thread 2 weeks ago from the AEM forum specific to this device but the print was largly chopped off on the right margin. I never reprinted and now wish I had. (the Forum being unavailable is a handicap)

Anyway, the connector has an "A" and "B" lead - where do they connect?

Thanks
Dan
97VR4

[BAdAzZV8]

GM AIT
(+) – MAS Red/Blue Wire
(-) – MAS Black Wire

GM Boost Solenoid
(+) – Switched 12V
(-) – PW2

AEM 3.5 Bar MAP Sensor
Green – AEM
Red – TPS Green/Yellow Wire
Black – TPS Black Wire


I think if you look hard enough, you will see a - and +, can't remember now though, but that is what I had for installation.

[pengulns2001]

the AIT is actually completly non polor you cant screw it up