AEM Ultimate Resource Thread>>>>

[mjannusch]

Originally Posted by MadMax IL

I use only Israeli 99 octane fuel which is probably a bit less by US standards, but still the best pump gas available here.

That's probably 99 Research Octane which is probably similar to US 92/93 octane that you'd see at a pump.

Also, a little question in logistics.....after I hook up the EMS I have to make sure with a timing light that the engine matches the AEM - now, seeing that my friend with the light and my other friend with the garage where I will do the install are in two very different places.....can I check the timing a day or two before, jot down all the appropriate numbers - go to the other place, install EMS entering the numbers from before - then drive carefully back to #1 to make sure its still the same?

Does your car have an adjustable cam-angle sensor mounted on the rear head by the throttle body? If so, then you would want to set your base timing so it is 5 degrees advance. http://www.stealth316.com/2-ignition-timing.htm

If you don't have an adjustable CAS, then your "before" timing doesn't matter.

What you want to do after the AEM is hooked up is to get it idling with a stable A/F ratio around 14.7:1 and set the timing advance cells everywhere below, say -5 psi to 15 degrees of advance. Then use the timing light to verify that at idle the timing is at 15 degrees. Rev the motor up to 4000 rpm and hold it there and verify that timing is still at 15 degrees. If both those match, you are set. If the light shows you timing that's different than what you expect then you need to use the Set Ignition Wizard to get your base timing set to 15 degrees at idle, and adjust Pickup Delay Comp to make it be correct when holding at 4000 rpm.

Generally, Pickup Delay Comp will be about 50 on cars with the adjustable CAS, and about 130 on cars with the non-adjustable hall-effect triggers on the cam/crank sprockets.

[pengulns2001]

actually if you use boost comp and you boost over it will keep adding fuel based on your boost comp table which still goes to 35 and it will use the highest load value you have set for timing ive done it by mistake

[BAdAzZV8]

I am just getting started. I got the AEM running well enough to drive it around town for a couple hundred miles, then had it shipped to IL for storage while I was in NJ. Then I drove it from IL to FL, and haven't had time to mess with it.

Boost come was only set up like that b/c I haven't boosted that high, and I don't know if it's rich or lean up there. I know the table isn't great, and I'm going to work on fixing it. But these gas prices are making me not want to drive my car. I actually looked at my boost comp last night before looking at this, and noticed the non-linear as well, and changed it to more linear. I had it in the table format and didn't notice the slope, but saw it when I was viewing the graph.

I haven't boosted over 22psi(and can't) because I have 9b's for the moment, read above about having car.

Penguin, every mod is in the sig.

[leonel]

[quote=mjannusch]That's probably 99 Research Octane which is probably similar to US 92/93 octane that you'd see at a pump.


European pump is higher octane than North American pump....the fuel is even red!

[mjannusch]

Originally Posted by leonel

European pump is higher octane than North American pump....the fuel is even red!

Yeah, but I thought that they use the Research octane rating, where in north america we use an average of the Research octane and the Motor octane.

In the book "Forced Induction Performance Tuning":

"In the USA, service station pumps carry a Pump Octane Number (PON) rather than the Research number seen on pumps in other parts of the world. This rating, usually expressed as R+M/2, is the average of the RON plus the MON divided by two."

As far as I can tell, it has always been that way...

[pengulns2001]

would that be with the mods in the "waiting to be installed" or are you still on stock injectors also i cant do anything about the boost tuning every car is different so my maps wont do anything for you there

[pengulns2001]

stock injector map for anyone starting out including you badazz let me know how it works out, check over it and anyone thats been tuning a while if you want to help make a good base map for people to start please critique it or check over it

i havent been on stock injectors for a while so this is pretty old but it ran good back then

[pengulns2001]

oh yeah

[BAdAzZV8]

I'll check it out, thanks

And yes, still on stock injectors and turbos. The stuff that is waiting to be installed is all waiting on getting my manifolds done. So for a couple of months probably, I will need a good map.

[BAdAzZV8]

Don't forget Penguin that you turned AC off in that cal.

your idle options, the idle AC load comp is 0%, which is for non AC I'm assuming, stock is 5.08%.

I'm assuming the LS10 option is the Check engine light for the shift light?

Fuel offset vs rpm setting that you have values in for, what are those? I have no values in the stock or current cal?

Your "fuel" start extra vs temp table was also different from stock. I'm assuming this is just to help add fuel on cold starts.

I set up my inj phasing off of that file too.

your ignition dwell vs rpm is way different than stock as well, what is this used for?

crank injector time table, the 12% value is out of place with the rest. Also, the stock doesn't lower at 78 like yours, why does yours lower?

initial crank pulse table is also very different, what does this help during startup?

stock idle% vs target table was DRASTICALLY different as well, why the huge change?

rpm offset vs tps table also doesn't have values in it stock, and yours does?