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#231 (permalink) |
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Boost is good
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I set up a template that I call "tuning" which displays and logs all the parameters I want when I am logging via laptop. Basically I have the fuel graph on the left and the ignition graph on the left. Currently I log:
Engine speed Engine load Throttle O2#1 02#1 FB value O2#2 Ign Timing Idle learned value Vehicle speed Air Temp Coolant Temp Knock 1 volts Knock 2 volts Fuel Injector#01 Pulse Fuel Trim(Accel) Boost WG out Stat Synch'd Injector duty I log these parameters on pretty much every car I tune. I might add one or two more temporarily, like Battery Volts etc if I feel a need too. |
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#232 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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Guys,
I never went WOT ( kinda scared). o2 feedback was checked.....SOB. Which i checked a couple time to make sure it is uncheck. I think once i reran o2feedback wizard to select sensor type it checks the feedback automatically. Added fuel to the entire map. Decrease Access sensetivity and increased sustain pump. so WOT?hm..
__________________
97'vr4
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#233 (permalink) |
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Boost is good
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the first thing I notice about your map is it is very choppy and isnt the "right shape". Boost comp maps like the one you are trying to run work off of volumetric efficiency and mathematics. This is a fairly linear curve and assumming you have stock cams, there is no reason for the shape of your map. My best advice to you is to get it to a dyno ASAP and stop wasting time "street tooning". With a decent tuner(and I can recommend some in your area) your car should be perfectly tuned in about 1-2 hours. Period.
IF I have time I will go over your map and make some changes and post it here. As an example here is a map from a car I dynoed earlier this week @ 862whp- notice how smooth it is. This map runs and drives the car perfectly, needing only a very slight adjustment for light load cruise once off the dyno. Total time tuning the car- 3.5 hours, and most of that was spent making the boost controller work. |
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#235 (permalink) |
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Boost is good
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your 02's are all over the place- you do NOT have knock- you have engine noise. knock shows as VERY sharp spikes to a much higher voltage than standard engine noise. When you see a steady rise it is engine noise.
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#237 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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i dont have a sample log cause i lost my HD a little while ago and my car hasnt run since, but i agree with 3r about the jaggedness of both your maps, however i have NEVER been on a dyno and my car runs way better than stock and has a great map on it
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#238 (permalink) |
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Boost is good
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heres a log from another Supra that shows a good AFR. Notice how as soon as he goes to boost, the AFR drops and stays there, despite the fact his boost controller was bouncing up and down between 18 and 22 psi. Also notice his knock- its there and goes up as engine noise increases.
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#240 (permalink) |
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needs more $
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i have read this whole thread and all i got to say is GOD DAMN IT. now i have to sell my MAP ECU, and will get less then what i really paid for it.
My only concern is i live in the northeast, weather changes throughout the day. once i have a strong tune will i have to consistently go back and forth changing the tune due to weather. or will the AEM do that automatically. i know with the MAP ECU once you tune for 40 degrees and then for 80 degrees the MAP ECU can handle anything in between, or am i wrong. Also i am rebuilding my motor with everything in my sig so i take it i should run the stock ECU until the motor is broken in and then put in the AEM. i will just need a string tune to get me from CT to Ray in New york im gonna have him tune it and learn as i go, and watch.
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