Will piston rings seal in time for the Texas Gathering?

[westcott]

Originally Posted by Djmba

To my surprise, I made A's on all of my finals and A's for all of my final course grades Calculus 2 was easy (I worked the eight problem test in twice in under 45 minutes) but physics and linear algebra were a shocker because I was certain I would make B's and music appreciation was simple, especially for someone who has been playing for 10 years and already knew most of the material. Lol.

As for the car, the O2 sensor I bought was from someone on here in Canada and unfortunately, it never arrived. He issued a full refund and I told him if it showed up I would resend payment. I honestly don't think it is the problem though now because I discovered that exhaust leak by the O2. I think that was the reason for it reading low. I plan on doing a whole bunch of stuff in the next week or so and fixing that leak will be one of them. In the meantime, I have thought about getting a small C-clamp and tightening it down where the leak is, but I feel like that would be EXTREMELY ghetto. Lol. A couple of days ago I received my OBDI-Bluetooth adapter I bought from the group buy (AWESOME product) and I have logged with it quite a few times. I really haven't been able to make it knock at all and yesterday I was really dogging on it. The highest total knock count I have gotten at the end of a log was 2-3 and that was like 20 minutes of rompin' on it. I wanted to hook up my other datalogger to verify or see if there is a difference in the two before I made an update so I didn't "jump the gun" and say it fixed itself.

Have you been following my rebuild thread? (I don't think anyone is interested. Lol. It would be nice to have some followers.) I decided to make it about what I do to the whole car instead of just the engine rebuild. Most of my updates will be in that thread and the knock troubleshooting thread. When I am certain I figured out the knock problem I will post the solution to the knock troubleshooting thread.

What about your engine? I saw that you got another rebuilt block. How is that coming along?

The update above is pretty much where I am at. Waiting on the new pan. I am waiting for my fried chicken to cool, but as soon as I finish eating, I will go find your rebuild thread and catch up on your progress.

Happy Holidays to you and yours!!!!

[Grandpa Poser]

Djmba, congrats man.

Westcott, fingers crossed buddy, fingers crossed.

[Import Power]

Break in should happen in an afternoon. Slowly increasing revs and throttle until you run WOT to redline after about 12 pulls. Done. Rings seat with being pushed against the wall. Break in easy and this does not happen.

-Chris

[westcott]

Originally Posted by Import Power

Break in should happen in an afternoon. Slowly increasing revs and throttle until you run WOT to redline after about 12 pulls. Done. Rings seat with being pushed against the wall. Break in easy and this does not happen.

-Chris

Thanks.

I will be doing this today. Sounds like I should go up the RPM range by about 500rpm for each pull.

First engine had bearing failure and lost oil pressure within 43 miles.

Lets hope I have better luck this time.

[westcott]

Originally Posted by Grandpa Poser

Djmba, congrats man.

Westcott, fingers crossed buddy, fingers crossed.

Just an update on this thread for those not following the build thread.

DOHC NA Engine Transmission Removal Photo Log

I finally got the correct pan locally. All the bolt holes lined up with the block and the 2nd gen oil pump mated up perfectly. The only modification I had to make was to cut off 9/16" from the back of the top bolt hole of the idler pulley adjustment bracket that mounts to the oil pump. You know, the one with the long bolt.

Some friends came over and helped me drop the engine in the compartment. This went very smoothly except the chain had popped a hole in the front valve cover. So, Djmba had a spare and I decided to clean it up before installing it. It took a lot of time to polish to a reflective shine but it does look good. I also did the top of the radiator.

I have everything installed except the battery and the two half shafts. I topped off the fluids last night and checked for leaks this morning before work. All looks good. I will slide in the half shafts and bleed the clutch and mechanical oil pressure gauge line when I get home. Then I will get to fire her up.

I want to thank everyone for their support and guidance. It has been quiet a roller coaster ride but I am hoping I can start to enjoy the fruits of my labor.

[Import Power]

Just remember, the ONLY part that breaks in during a new engine break in is the piston rings. (and new cams)

Bearings don't need any "break in". If they spin, it isn't cause you didn't break it in easy.

-Chris

[Forest Gump]

if you don't mind, did you find a cause of the bearing failure?

[westcott]

Originally Posted by Forest Gump

if you don't mind, did you find a cause of the bearing failure?

No. The machinist blamed it on oil contamination but made no attempt to take any measurements of the engine components as requested.

I was not impressed by his lack of effort or answer, but since he provided a new long block assembly, it was really here nor there, in the end.

[Forest Gump]

good and bad I guess

[westcott]

Originally Posted by Forest Gump

good and bad I guess

It seems to be the way of the world, now a days. I doubt he would have warranted the motor if it was not a build mistake. Just did not want to admit it.