After searching off and on for a year I guess I have to go get a job at Tirerack or go get an engineering degree to find out what wheels fit. I have seen dozens of threads on here where people ask and I have yet to find anyone on here that can give even half an answer. YET!!!! On most of the signatures people are running on the dope (Volk, TE37's, Ray's) whatever. That DID NOT come from the local Discount tire and I'll be damned if you can go to a wheel and tire website and find them using the "Choose your car" input. Every single one of them shows you bubble-gummer pinboard shit that I wouldn't put on a pinto and then the one set of ugly ass OZ wheels that are $1k a wheel. So, 5X144 +38 on a 6.72 centric hub=idontgiveafuckaboutalgebra!!!!!
Anyone wanna stop hogging the magic calculator or shed some light on the real answer? If you don't wanna give up the secret I'll just give you the equation, solve for X, if you can......the gauntlet has been thrown down!
1992 RT/TT on stock ECS with TEIN Type S and Gen 2 TT brake upgrade. Want 18's or (Preferably 19's) that fill out the wheel well or can stick out a tad, just nothing sticking in like happens when you buy wheels and have no clue what the offset is supposed to be. I call it the train car effect. Want to know what numbers I am supposed to have to get this (bolt pattern + Bore + offset + tire size) is it +32, +38, -40?!?!? every time I ask this all just dance around it????
I never get pissed.....NEVER! But I have asked this question so many time in person and on forums and I have read where other people do to and no one answers it, they just dance around it, it's getting really old.
Shooting for almost completely stock. Smart and nearly invisible upgrades to make the ultimate GT cruiser the platform will allow.
Mods: 9:1 with Ross forged pistons, solid motor mounts ,tcase cage, solid rear diff bushings, Latitude 42 HID projector conversion, Snake-Eyes headlight controller, Renegade Tech Works full 3 stage ECS, Full interior Dynamat (the right way), Fuel pump relay bypass, Tein S-Techs, R1 Concepts cross drilled/slotted rotors, gutted pre cats, Stillen DP.
White 1992 Stealth RT/TT (Stock-ish)
White 1992 3000gt VR-4 (modded)
Red 2002 Audi TT AMLaMans edition coupe
My favorite wheel is the Meister S1 3-peice, second fav is Autostrada Modena three peice split rims and I like the TE37SL, all of them in white.
I like my factory rims also but they need to be redone and one is damaged, previous owner re-shot them and they don't match the car, they are hyper white, not the pearl. And one has a bent lip and is going to peal soon. I have also been told they are crap for handling and can't get a straight answer if they will clear my Gen 2 brakes when I install them.
Ok so on the offset +35 or close. How far back and forth is ok on the bearing? 2deg off and what happens neg and pos? Does the wheel stick out further the more (+) and come in with more (-) or is it the other way around????
Lawdog, thank you for that diagram. That at least gets my mind to see what the numbers mean. But what is the centric hub supposed to be? and what hub ring do I need or whatever with an aftermarket wheel? Also, the wheels on yours in you sig pic look perfect if they were white. What are the specs on those and what lowering springs are you using? or are you on coil-overs?
Also, are they serious about these TE37SL being like $1,400 a wheel?!?! If so, never mind. They can get up in the morning and cook me breakfast and I'm not paying that much. I'm not racing this car in any way.
While everyone is answering, will my gen 1 wheels fit over gen 2 brakes?
Sure. So if you take your wheel off and look inbetween the lug stugs, you'll see a raised circular ring. Think of it like a centering ring on the hub, and the wheel has a circular hole right in the middle to slide onto the ring, to keep it centered.
When the ring on the car is too small for the hole in the wheel, you just need to put some "hubcentric rings" on the car's ring so that the hole in the wheel fits snugly on it.
So to find the right side, figure out how big the wheel's "center bore" is. Our hub rings are 67mm, I think, or close to it. So you'd need rings with 67mm inner diameter, and then the outer diameter would be whatever the center bore of the wheel is.
Ok, some things are getting clearer but not the offset number. In the post above someone says +32 then the next says +46, then the last has a set up of +20 front +15 rear? How does this number move around so much? I'm guessing it has no bearing on height (17,18,19) but does with width (8.5,9.5,10). Is the number the measurement in mm from the rear lip to the hub surface? Or is it the outer lip to hub? what is a safe variance? I'm sorry if I am lost but each person has that number vary a giant amount.
Not to sound ungrateful, but that last calculator confused me even more. It wants me to add mm clearances and I'm pretty sure it told me to solve for pie at one point and plug that into the cosign of the parabola. Rota Grinds look great, found nothing that comes close to the right size. At this point not being able to ask "I want an 18inch wheel. What offset do I need"? still seems to be the norm. I got numerous different answers here. I am really smart guy but you have the work "calculation" anywhere in it and I become a slobbering monosyllabic troglodyte.
At this point I think I officially give up on doing the 2g brake upgrade and buying aftermarket wheels, whatever. Guess I'm gonna pay fuktards of money to have my stock wheels fixed and re-shot right.
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