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Old 09-04-2009, 10:16 AM   #31 (permalink)
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Default Re: Whats the best oil for breaking in a new engine?

going to the thinner 10w30 is making her smoke more. will it take some time for the RP to get off the cylinder walls? im pushing her harder so we'll see. But, when i decel it smokes alot more.
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Old 09-04-2009, 10:44 AM   #32 (permalink)
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Default Re: Whats the best oil for breaking in a new engine?

I think we have pretty much covered the type of oil to use during the break-in period. I used 30w non-detergent oil, but not sure if that's even available anymore. (ti's probably sold as break-in oil now)

I would like to detail the correct procedure, as was taught to me by some of the best automotive instructors in the east coast, as follows:

1. start engine, visual check for leaks and coolant levels and allow to reach operating temperature.

2. drive car for 15 to 30 mins, lugging the engine. Lugging is keeping RPMs low, but with hard throttle. NO transmission kick down activation.

3. repeat lugging step above from a full stop up to 60 MPH at least 5 times.

The reason you want to "lug" the engine is the explosions inside the combustion chamber is high, pressing the piston rings firmly againest the cylinder wall and seating them. You do not want to rev the engine high because a newly build engine Rod Bearing clearances have the highest chance of spinning until seated into the rods. Rod bearings will have a less likelyhood of spinning after the first cool down and re-start.

This has always given me good results. To date, I have never had to go back into an engine I built using the break-in procedure.

Last edited by BrianWSNC; 09-04-2009 at 11:08 AM.
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Old 09-04-2009, 11:04 AM   #33 (permalink)
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Default Re: Whats the best oil for breaking in a new engine?

wish someone would have said something before...
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Old 09-04-2009, 11:19 AM   #34 (permalink)
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Default Re: Whats the best oil for breaking in a new engine?

you sure your turbos are good? Smoke on decel was turbos for me...
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Old 09-04-2009, 11:31 AM   #35 (permalink)
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Default Re: Whats the best oil for breaking in a new engine?

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Originally Posted by Forest Gump View Post
you sure your turbos are good? Smoke on decel was turbos for me...
Same here, wish someone would have told me that before I ripped my engine apart
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Old 09-04-2009, 12:17 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Default Re: Whats the best oil for breaking in a new engine?

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Originally Posted by Sin'sVr4 View Post
wish someone would have said something before...
well throwing money at something is only 1 way to fix something.


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Old 09-04-2009, 01:57 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Default Re: Whats the best oil for breaking in a new engine?

these are brand new. freshly rebuilt
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Old 09-04-2009, 08:53 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Default Re: Whats the best oil for breaking in a new engine?

I have read too many articles about not using straight 30WND on break in or even initial startup. It's bad for everything since it is starting at 30W. It's too thick to start an engine on. It is better to start with a store brand 10W30 for initial startup. And even break in.

Runthe startup for 5-10 minutes, then change the oil and filter. No mater how clean you got everything on the build, it's not clean. the oil will clean it up.

-Chris
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Old 09-05-2009, 08:10 AM   #39 (permalink)
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Default Re: Whats the best oil for breaking in a new engine?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Import Power View Post
I have read too many articles about not using straight 30WND on break in or even initial startup. It's bad for everything since it is starting at 30W. It's too thick to start an engine on. It is better to start with a store brand 10W30 for initial startup. And even break in.

Runthe startup for 5-10 minutes, then change the oil and filter. No mater how clean you got everything on the build, it's not clean. the oil will clean it up.

-Chris
Except i did mine like 20-30 mins i think.. Then again at 500 and i will be switching to syn. at 2000
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Old 09-06-2009, 02:32 AM   #40 (permalink)
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Default Re: Whats the best oil for breaking in a new engine?

rings initially seat the first time you drive the car.

If the cylinder walls glaze, its time to rehone the cylinders.

Chris is correct, you need to do "pulls" the moment the engine has warmed up.

Don't lug the engine. You don't want the engine staying at the same RPM while seating rings.
Never drive at constant speed on the highway or freeway for 500+ miles. Always vary engine RPM.

Initial seating of rings can be done in about 10-20 street pulls/decels up to 2/3 of max RPMS and LOW boost. Then the next 200-800 miles (depending on your ring type) are "break in" where the final wear in happens.

If the motor is smoking after the rings are seated (first couple minutes of driving), you have a problem.


One thing Chris is wrong about is what is wearing. Your cylinder hone has a crosshatch pattern. This crosshatch is usually around a 60 degree angle. This angle allows oil to come up in the grooves at a decent flow. Too steep of an angle and your motor will consume oil. Too shallow of an angle and your rings will starve for oil and overheat, and wear out quickly.

Your rings first seat against these honing grooves and wear away the sharp peaks on each groove. When you "glaze" the cylinder, the oil in the grooves overheats and burns. this means the rings will never be able to wear away the peaks of the honing marks properly, and wear will likely be uneven leading to oil burning.

More modern engine honing with high quality rings uses what we call a "quick seat" hone which uses a rough grit hone and then a very fine hone to break down most of the peaks so the rings don't have to take much "damage" as they wear down the cylinder walls, and that usually means the rings seat almost instantly when you do a pull or 2 and decel.

Most of the advice in this thread is terrible. Take it from someone who has made mistakes before and doesn't want to repeat them. Not from someone who heard from someone who gets paid to fix peoples broken/improperly broken in motors

Avoid being in the throttle for too long as heat is what glazes the oil. There is a lot more oil in the honing grooves before they have been worn down and more surface area of oil to absorb heat. That leads to glazing.
Keep things cool. Lugging up a hill at 2000 rpms on fresh motor = tons of heat and load.....and glaze.

Quick seat honing is one the current solutions to glazing. Even a properly built motor can glaze when you try to do everything right. I really don't believe advice an engine builder gives on breaking in when they say "don't beat on it, because thats quite the opposite of what they will do on any motor they have on the engine dyno. They just want to rebuild your motor and blame you for the glaze

Idle till the motor warms up and beat on it RIGHT AWAY. Otherwise it might glaze
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Last edited by Ondontii; 09-06-2009 at 02:40 AM.
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