rings initially seat the first time you drive the car.
If the cylinder walls glaze, its time to rehone the cylinders.
Chris is correct, you need to do "pulls" the moment the engine has warmed up.
Don't lug the engine. You don't want the engine staying at the same RPM while seating rings.
Never drive at constant speed on the highway or freeway for 500+ miles. Always vary engine RPM.
Initial seating of rings can be done in about 10-20 street pulls/decels up to 2/3 of max RPMS and LOW boost. Then the next 200-800 miles (depending on your ring type) are "break in" where the final wear in happens.
If the motor is smoking after the rings are seated (first couple minutes of driving), you have a problem.
One thing Chris is wrong about is what is wearing. Your cylinder hone has a crosshatch pattern. This crosshatch is usually around a 60 degree angle. This angle allows oil to come up in the grooves at a decent flow. Too steep of an angle and your motor will consume oil. Too shallow of an angle and your rings will starve for oil and overheat, and wear out quickly.
Your rings first seat against these honing grooves and wear away the sharp peaks on each groove. When you "glaze" the cylinder, the oil in the grooves overheats and burns. this means the rings will never be able to wear away the peaks of the honing marks properly, and wear will likely be uneven leading to oil burning.
More modern engine honing with high quality rings uses what we call a "quick seat" hone which uses a rough grit hone and then a very fine hone to break down most of the peaks so the rings don't have to take much "damage" as they wear down the cylinder walls, and that usually means the rings seat almost instantly when you do a pull or 2 and decel.
Most of the advice in this thread is terrible. Take it from someone who has made mistakes before and doesn't want to repeat them. Not from someone who heard from someone who gets paid to fix peoples broken/improperly broken in motors
Avoid being in the throttle for too long as heat is what glazes the oil. There is a lot more oil in the honing grooves before they have been worn down and more surface area of oil to absorb heat. That leads to glazing.
Keep things cool. Lugging up a hill at 2000 rpms on fresh motor = tons of heat and load.....and glaze.
Quick seat honing is one the current solutions to glazing. Even a properly built motor can glaze when you try to do everything right. I really don't believe advice an engine builder gives on breaking in when they say "don't beat on it, because thats quite the opposite of what they will do on any motor they have on the engine dyno. They just want to rebuild your motor and blame you for the glaze
Idle till the motor warms up and beat on it RIGHT AWAY. Otherwise it might glaze