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#41 (permalink) |
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Verified Seller
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ohh god another 1 of these threads...
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94 VR499 conversion with 6K HIDs and PIAA fogs, 17G/15G combo, FMIC, DN downpipe, 560cc, walbro 255lph hotwired, MR gears, RPS 6-puck clutch, fidanza flywheel, hybrid logger, dejon preturbo, MAFT pro. K&N and custon carbon fiber heat sheild, HKS ssq, blitz turbo timer, 18" TSW kyalamis wraped in proxy 4's, polished Y-pipe, polished strut bar,solid engine mounts, seattle short throw, vac line reduction, misc REAL carbon fiber trim and misc gauges..ect |
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#43 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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ricer, jk good luck with the clutch install, may i recommend a clutch?
its called XTD you can get them on ebay rather cheap they work great too, i have one in my talon and my bro has one in his Vr-4. i think i payed like 180 for the talon clutch and my bro payed like 250-280, both cars run fine, and my talon sees a shit load of abuse!! oh also i have a spec stage 4 clutch in my vr-4 and have about 200-300 launches on it and prolly around 20,000miles on it and its prolly starting to slip now, but thats a little more pricey then the XTD clutches. and yea what happened to your clutch has nothing to do with you "beating the fuck out of ur car" who ever said that is a retard. thats clearly a faulty clutch, no clutch should do that unless something is clearly wrong with either a) the previous install or b) the actual clutch itself material itself or c) you where racing and instead of going from top of 3rd to fourth you hit 2nd by accident and over reved your car hardcore, thats what happened to my friend and his clutch looked the same, not to mention he had a whole slew of other engine problems/transmission problems, so im sure we can rule out C in your case. good luck man! and make sure u get ur flywheel resurfaced!
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Last edited by darkkiller : 09-05-2008 at 09:37 AM. |
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#44 (permalink) |
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DSM Guy
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Your wheel stud is gong to be a complete pain. You need to press out the hub as well as the ABS ring. Once you get that all pressed out, you can just hammer out the stud.
Unfortunately, when you press out the hub, the wheel bearing will be damanged and needed to be replaced as well. It gets pretty expensive for a $3 wheel stud.
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-Richard
1992 GVR4 649/1000 1998 VR4 1of19 New Zealand Green 1992 TSI AWD ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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#45 (permalink) |
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I drive a Banana
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thanks for the info bro.. Since i had a lifetime warranty on the clutch they are gonna give me one for free, but as soon as that one gives ill get that clutch you recommended.. I honestly don't know how that happened to the clutch.. i have never popped it in the wrong gear and i actually drive my car pretty nicely.
so why do i have to get the flywheel resurfaced? |
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#46 (permalink) | |
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Damage Control
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Quote:
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SOLD
![]() Walbro 255, 450CC injectors, S-AFC, 300M output shaft, SPEC II clutch, RPS flywheel, ATR single shot exhaust, ATR downpipe, saner sway bars, PRM 3 pt strut bar, Greddy Type-S BOV, stillen cross drilled rotors, stillen brake pads, koyo rad ![]() |
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#48 (permalink) |
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2 + 2 is CHICKEN!
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Your flywheel has steps, if those step heights aren't within .005" of manufacturer's specifications, your clutch will either be slipping the whole time it's engaged, or dragging every time its released. This leads to premature failure. Trust me, it took me 3 clutches in 3,000 miles to figure this out back in the day. I personally ALWAYS buy a remanufactured flywheel from Autozone every time I do a clutch, $55, can't go wrong. And with your kind of damage, that flywheel is in definite need of machining or replacing. I believe the step height spec is .613" for NA's, dont quote me on that though. Have them measure it with a micrometer whether you buy a reman or get it machined.
I can't say good things about XTD, haven't had any good experience with them. But it was also mainly the flywheel's fault. I can say good things about the F1 racing stage 3 6-puck thats in my VR4 right now. 2k+ miles and all is well, not bad for $260. *knocks on wood* As for the stud, you need a hydraulic press to press out the wheel bearing hub from the steering knuckle. Not something you'll be able to just do, and do correctly. You're better off bringing the knuckle to a shop and having them do it to save yourself some cash.
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Last edited by TwIzTeD_3kGt : 09-05-2008 at 05:39 PM. |
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#49 (permalink) | |
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Forum Member
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Quote:
i'm pushing ~10,000 on my XTD clutch on my talon and a ton of launches and im running 28psi and i have had absolutely no problems. oh i also have ebay16gs 2 on my vr-4 and 1 on my talon both with a ton of abuse and absolutely no issues yet with around 10,000miles on each. and they have huge list of retards that break them, so call me lucky but i have yet to have an ebay part fail on me or steer me wrong. quick search on dsmtuners for xtd brings up these threads. XTD clutch - DSM Forums XTD Stage 3 Clutch Review Please - DSM Forums Aimco clutch XTD Racing Stage 4 - DSM Forums judging from those threads you must either know a lot unlucky people, people that cant drive, or your facts are just plain made up, or ill venture out and say that the people on that dsm forums are a bunch of liars. |
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