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#2 (permalink) |
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Grandpa
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ball joint? you can use a pry bar to wedge in there, there are also "forks" you can use to pop that joint appart.
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Set the gearshift, for the high gear of your soul.
Chuck Norris can win a game of Connect Four in THREE MOVES I'm an Equal Opportunity Annoyer! ![]() Last edited by EVILTWIN : 09-02-2008 at 01:06 PM. |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Verified Seller
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that is the tierod end, put the nut you took off it back on it upside down and give it a few good wacks with a hammer it will pop out.
The wheel studs are pressed in, you are going to need to pull off the whole hub assembley. (make sure you mark your alignment points). The hub is also pressed together. You may need to take it to a machine shop to get it apart. (unless you have a press).
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1992 Stealth R/T
![]() Drive Train/Performance: Aem FPR (Rob's adapter), DR650r's, Borla Cat-Back, Dejon Intake / Blow Through Setup, GM Maf / Maf-T, Greddy E-Manage (Blue), Greddy E-01 Boost controller, Greddy Type RS BOV, Maximal Performance Solid Motor Mounts, MSD Ignition Wires, Optima Yellow Top Battery, Spec Stage 3 6 puck Clutch, Walbro Fuel Pump. Exterior/Appearance: 1999 3000GT Front Bumper, Headlamps and Turn Signals, Second Generation Stealth Hood, Side Skirts/Door Caps, Rear Bumper and OEM 96 Wing. Interior: Cianci Triple 60mm Gauge Pod (matching passenger side replacement), Greddy Counter Weight Shift Knob, Greddy Silver 60mm P/H/W Gauges (center replacement and gauge pod), LC-1 Wide Band, M515 PDA/MMCD Data Logger, Seattle Roller Bearing Short Throw Shifter. Suspension/Wheels: Black Racing Pro N1 17x9 Wheels, Cusco Front and Rear Strut Bars, Ground Control Coil Overs (Stock ECS Struts), Stealth TT Brake Upgrade. Soon To Come: A drivable car!!!! To Do: Finish building/Install motor, Install Water/Meth Injection, Tune Properly, Paint and Install AWD Conversion parts (after motor break in/tuned). |
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#4 (permalink) | ||
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Forum user
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Quote:
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9b 13.2 w/ 93 Pump
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#6 (permalink) |
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2 + 2 is CHICKEN!
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I don't usually disconnect the ball joints or the tie rod ends. If you take out the two strut bolts (mark the eccentric bolt to the strut so you don't need an alignment after) and you can maneuver the hub just enough to get the axle out, and then you can pull it out of the tranny. But I guess that would be for the more advanced as a time saver.
On top, I take off the intake, battery, and washer fluid bottle. Which gives you access to the slave cylinder bolts, engine and trans. mount bolts. Here's a manual that helped me out my first time: http://www.ecanfix.com/users/manualcd/gift/3s/3s_mt.pdf
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Last edited by TwIzTeD_3kGt : 09-02-2008 at 02:51 PM. |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Verified Seller
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I have heard that but I didn't see another way, i would have to look again. The only way i could see to get at it was pressing the hub apart, this was along time ago when I had to replace a broken stud on my car, If there are better ways to do it i am interested. Have pics of what you shaved?
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#8 (permalink) | |
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Verified Seller
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![]() I couldn't remember if i norm let the tierod loose or not, but i do it the same way. |
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#10 (permalink) | |
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2 + 2 is CHICKEN!
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Also for the stud, as far as I know you have to press the hub out of the knuckle. I don't think notching the stud works...I guess I could be wrong? |
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