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#41 (permalink) |
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3S-less
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my TB leaks when its closed but it stopps leaking at WOT. I'm gonna do this mod tomorrow anyway
![]() thanks and great write up!
__________________
![]() 1992 VR4 - Sold 1991 SL - Sold 1993 RT/TT - Sold 1992 Stealth - Sold |
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#42 (permalink) |
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18 year old VR4
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I had some major leaks from my TB, mainly just because I need a new gasket, so I decided I needed to do this o-ring replacement. I took the TB off and disassembled it today, and i'm gonna get some new o-rings and a gasket tomorrow.
Just looking at those seals I don't see how you guys could leave the stock ones in and put some on top of them. It just doesn't look like there is room for another o-ring in there??? Does It actually go in the groove where the stock one is? If I can find the right size replacement i'm going to remove the old one and have just the new one in there. I'm going to take my TB and shaft into NAPA and find the right size. Hopefully by tomorrow night i'll be done with that and sealing up leaks elsewhere. To everyone who has done this: Does the shaft still slide easy and smooth or is there more resistance with the new o-rings?
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-Marshall
2nd Place "Best 1st gen" category '08 NG Car Show ![]() Check out My Pics and "The Story of My Car" UPDATED 6/22/08 with engine rebuild Engine rebuild: Done! 8/07 Paint: Done! 11/07 |
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#43 (permalink) |
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18 year old VR4
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Well I got the job done, It was pretty easy and i'm glad I did it. I found the perfect seals and have no air leaks coming from the TB now.
The pics show the two O-rings I bought to see which one worked the best. It was the smaller one. Got them at O'Reilly's. $0.50 ea. I dug out the inner part of the stock O-rings with a dental tool sort of thing and put these in with a perfect fit. Pushed the shaft back in and it didn't slide around easy anymore like it did. It now takes a lot more force to turn the shaft but once the springs were hooked back up it was fine. Two pics just show what the O-rings look like, third and fourth pics show them in place (kinda blurry though). |
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#45 (permalink) |
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Hybrid 95 w/ hybrid 13gs
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Hey guys, just replacing my throttle shaft seals and everything was going smooth until I tried to get the old seals out. I cant seem to get them to budge. The shaft is fully out, everything is off the throttle body, they just wont move. I want to reuse them with o-rings and Im starting to wreck one with all my prying and hammering.
![]() Any advice? Thanks, Jason. |
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#46 (permalink) |
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I miss my boost.
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Wreck the things and replace them with Home Depot #8 o-rings. They fit perfectly in the gap...almsot like they were made for it.
![]() The stock seals are poo. OTOH, only the one on the cable-side for me was blown. The other one was pristine. I bent the hell out 'em anyway with a screwdriver getting them out. Little bastards. |
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#47 (permalink) |
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Hybrid 95 w/ hybrid 13gs
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They are little bastards!
![]() I was able to finally get em out by tapping them back into the throttle body a bit and prying them out a bit and tap them back in.... so on. A little throttle body cleaner sprayed in helped too. For anyone who plans on reusing the stock seal metal part heres a tip on removing the old hardend rubber..... burn the hell out of it! Heat it up till it starts to glow. The old rubber then almost falls out.Jason. |
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#48 (permalink) |
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I miss my boost.
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I imagine you'd fall apart pretty quickly too, if you were heated to 1000ºF!
![]() A word of experience - don't forget to get two full winds on the throttle springs!! Heh. I had a bitch of a time winding those springs, and the first time I didn't get them wound all the way around properly. Imagine my surprise when my car wouldn't return to idle! It wouldn't be so bad if it were just one spring... But those #8 o-rings with a bit of silicone spray on them glide like butter. |
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#49 (permalink) | |
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Corn Its whats for boost
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Quote:
__________________
AEM Factory Trained Tuner
![]() 91VR4-3.0L-Stock heads and Cams-762AWHP 747AWTQ 30psi E100 Daily Driver 10.63@121mph SLTT-10.9 @ 140MPH Stock NA motor and NA heads/Cams T4 AWD 9.21 @ 154.98 T2 FWD 10.19 @ 140.31 T4-159.23 MPH Ran on 6G72 3.1L! T4-995AWHP Uncorrected 6G72 3.0L C16 T2-820FWHP 3.1L 27psi C16 91VR4 Red-17Gs w/supporting mods-sold 93SLTT/T2 91VR4 Pearl White-sold 91VR4 Black-sold 92VR4 Sandstone-sold 94VR4 Green-sold 93VR4 Pearl White-sold NG09 Title Sponsor 3SX Performance 3SX Performance Service Email |
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#50 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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yeah I fixed mine months ago.. freaked me out when I sprayed windex around the tb while checking for leaks and huge bubbles starting coming out of the wound up spring
__________________
- Chris
05 EVO and 91 Stealth R/T TT ![]() **video** Upload your 3/S videos here http://3svideo.vidiac.com and post www.racevideoforums.com Intake: E16G turbos, DR Stage III heads, DR Race cams, Unorthodox Cam gears, Stock MAS, 6" K&N air filter, HKS SSBOV, Vacuum Reduction, custom 2.5" intake pipes and Dejon FMIC Ignition: MSD 8.5mm spark plug wires, NGK non-resistor non-projected R5671A-8 gapped at .026, HKS Twin Power DLI Electronics: Greddy Turbo Timer, Greddy E-Manage Blue, Greddy Profec E-01, MMCD and Palm, LM-1 Wideband + RPM Converter Fuel: Blitz 720cc injectors, Denso 310lph fuel pump, Fuel pump Hotwire , relay bypass, IPO SX Fuel Pressure Regulator and Kenne Bell Boost-a-pump Exhaust: Titan TD05 Headers and 02 housings, EGR Blockoff Plates, ATR downpipe, Twin Borla mufflers Driveline: RPS MAX 6-Puck Clutch and RPS Flywheel, 17" Enkei RPF1 (16lbs each), Nitto 555 Extreme, TEIN S-Tech springs and KYB GR2 Struts Other: Unorthodox Underdrive Pulley, Krankvents |
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