Thottle Body O-ring repair/replace with PICS

[BucknVR4]

Originally Posted by AdamVR4

These leak air... As in boost ...

BucknVR4: You have fuel in your TB?? Do you have secondary injectors or something?? If your set-up is even close to stock, you'll never have fuel any where near these o-rings.

Sorry No fuel flowing through but it sure ends up with oil base fumes. Maybe not enough to really make a diff. though especially if Vac reduction has been done.
I was really just making a comment about those o-rings. Same ones that I replace often in my faucets due to my well water.

[BlackStealth]

I was planning to do this project this weekend. Thanks for the pictures and info!

[sillycat]

Originally Posted by red_3000

Excuse my ignorance (really ). But why not just bump the boost up a tiny bit co compensate for the leak? I'm allready pretty much maxing my injectors out and my turbos have more to go.

p.s. Subscribed, I have been thinking of doing this mod.


And to the thread starter, can you take measurements of that o-ring with a caliper (or as good as you can w/ a ruler) for those of us who don't have Home Depot, or dont want to buy theirs? (I can get any size o-ring from work, nitrile, silicone, viton, neoprene, etc.)

I cannot take a caliper to those O-rings because they are on the car already. However you are in luck because I copied down the measurements from the No.7 O-ring Bin @ Home Depot just in case the package didn't have any and I'd need to search further.

Here it is.

Home Depot No.7 O-Ring

1/2" Outer Diameter
3/8" Inner Diameter
1/16" Wall Thickness

Good Luck to everyone in searching for these.

-silly

[red_3000]

Thanks, silly!

[sillycat]

Originally Posted by red_3000

Thanks, silly!

no problem, glad to help.

[sillycat]

Originally Posted by GTO NEMESIS

What are the downsides of it leaking?
Mark

Same as any other boost/vac leak. Poor boost response, won't hold boost, A/F will be slightly off, and probably a few other things as well. Oh yeah and it kills the turbos faster.

-silly

[sillycat]

Originally Posted by antero

I was planning to do this project this weekend. Thanks for the pictures and info!

Your welcome. I did this a few days ago here in NY and my fingers were bitter cold when I was done. I hope you have a heated garage up there in Canada. Good luck and stay warm

-silly

[houdini]

nice tutorial

thanks

[red_3000]

Originally Posted by sillycat

IMPORTANT EDIT: The screws holding the butterly valve together strip extremely easily. These are the screws in Picture #3. I nearly rounded out the screw before I went to Sears to get a 35 piece screwtip set. Nothing worked except the Philips size p1 tip. By the time I tried this tip there was almost nothing to grip onto on the screw yet it got the job done. So if you're having problems here go buy just a Philips p1 tip if you can.

I found out why those screws are such a bitch to remove.
The backs of them are hammered down (or crimped) from the factory. I had one screw about 1/2 turn and the other one I stripped before I figured this out.
I had to drill one and used a reverse bit on it to remove it.

You need to grind the backs of the screws off.
Then when you re-install them (or use new ones), you should use locktite on the threads to be sure they don't fall out and get sucked into your engine.

[AdamVR4]

What's odd, is removing them is only a major pain about 50% of the time... The rest of the time, they come right out... But I noticed what you're talking about, and on the last TB I worked on, ended up having the grind down the back side of the screw.

red_3000: Boost leaks KILL power. The most noticeable things will be an increase in lag, boost falling off more rapidly and more severely towards redline, and an overly rich state of tune at WOT. Aside from that, they're not a big deal

Basically, pressure testing = free power. Do it. I can't emphasize it enough...