Originally Posted by AdamVR4
30+ psi out of an 1100 hp turbo on a 3.0L by 3700 rpm in 3rd gear? Wow, Shiver's spool device is a game changer. Congrats DoomZdaY!
It will be with the friction treatment, lightened and improved compressor upgrade from 67 to 70mm, better heat retention in the exhaust housing via race grade ceramics ( this t4 blanket works, but still doesnt fit over the exhaust housing that well) and some timing and EGT's to take advantage of it on the e85. Or at least I'm hoping so down the road.
The valve is a lucrative investment for the money in a turbo with a divided housing- 500-750 rpms alone out of a single upgrade- along with no topend loss from shivers flap design are ridiculous. It makes big turbos behave in ways that make me moist, for 600 bucks you can't go wrong
Also Doomzday stated, I miss watching your car vids haha, they're partially what got me into considering my setup in the firstplace, along with watching geremy's gt42 stealth and Roy's Borg S475 car, Matt's 8 sec car, Chris's 800+ awhp machine and Ray's Chameleon car. Lately Trevor's been the one I've been watching put down some powa. Mawr vids or bust sir.
Thanks for the compliments- my car is pretty, except for the massive door ding from some hit and run a dbag pulled off while I was parked at panera bread. I dig your setup doomzday, and your car is black- which I find as teh sexy. You should toss up some more engine bay shots and some of your own design theory! This is your thread, own it like a baws as its another single turbo success story!
There arent that many of us around, but we're growing.
Any future plans before this coming summer? revisions? upgrades? ideas to try?- I may be able to help on budget upgrades from the tuning community in town for stuff, pm me with what you'd like and I can see what they have
How a QSV/VGT setup works
As for what the QSV does, its "new old" tech, based on variable exhaust geometry turbine housings. Essentially, it closes off part of the turbine housing, reducing the exhaust A/R and forcing the rest of the exhaust through a smaller port, but at higher pressure into the turbine impeller for the early point of the power band. At the point when the exhaust becomes too restrictive ( once you start to build positive boost in excess of 7-10 psi), the valve opens, and exposes the rest of the turbine housing, allowing for max flow now that your in a point in the powerband where topend flow is more important and the engine needs to breath more than it needs to spool. The result? A GT42- all 900+ crank ponies of glory spooling at the speed of a gt35. Or any turbo for that matter, it esentially widens the powerband and dramatically shifts power under the curve.
here's a page of some early valve engineering results while it was still going through the R and D stages- the design is just like shivers, but I can't say for certain if shiver is the author of the article or not.
Quick Spool Valve Dyno Tuned Comparison Test
heres a supra running a GT42 with the Sound performance QSV- pay special attention to the dyno plot at the end of the video and the under curve gains.
Sound Performance Quick Spool Valve testing and results!!! - YouTube
and I still think shivers qsv is superior to the sound performance system- a system with a butterfly in the middle of the exhaust stream, creating turbulence, and that the exhaust needs to be refabbed to compensate for the 3/4 of an inch of their butterfly/flange design. It also doesnt allow for a twinscroll manifold (mine is) where shivers does by making the volute divider in the exhaust the actual valve.
-for the second Q about my cross pipe- I sized the piping to match the size of the turbo volutes on the t4 twinscroll flange. They are the smallest part in the preturbo exhaust system. Thus I sized my cross piping to match to avoid turbulent conditions and beveled the interior edge of the flange to encourage smooth flow for the exhaust gas.
-Also, for single turbo setups, part of what makes us generally laggy vs the twin guys is that we have a lot more preturbo exhaust piping to route due to packaging reasons, thus there's a longer delay for exhaust gas to reach the turbo as well as a lot more pipe surface area to remove heat from the gases- slowing the exhaust charge down
By reducing some of the diameter of the cross pipe, you remove some of that surface area as well as compensate for pipe length with increased pressure to drive a larger turbo and keep it somewhat responsive. This can be readily observed with IPS's single kit design and its general lag by routing the piping underneath the motor. IPS's kit however does a much better job at managing engine bay thermals and allows for pretty much any downpipe sizing you want post turbo, whereas our setups are a little restricted in that dept by the nature of the design.
twin walbro 255's with a dual pump/dual feed setup
delphi 1250cc injectors
98 sl ecu with 99vr4 rom scaled for 1250 injectors courtesy of greg E
Maft with 3" gm maf
single 60mm external wastegate with divided runners to each bank's exhaust
stock TT 4 bolt engine with general maintenance done and coming up to the 120 service benchmark (8.1 compression ratio)
MSD coil packs (for bling) and wires with Boostaspark
Avenger Intake manifold thermal coated
3" intercooler piping with a 4" thick IC thats 28" wide and 12" tall with 3" end tanks
Waiting to go in over the next 2 years assuming nothing life wise changes and college finishes smoothly:
spec 4+ welded and balanced- will upgrade to a stage 5 or twin if it pops much sooner than I'd like it to
Jacks transmissions rebuild with double synchros
3sx or Rays forged internals- still deciding where my money is going- 3sx's is cheaper and still heavy duty, but ray's is nice and noted to support 4 digits to the ground.
headlift fix from ray- possible headwork and port/polish by myself
Delta cam regrinds
Some hardening/durability treatments for transfercase gears and oil pump gears.
I don't have a build thread up and running- well at least on the 3s boards, I wanted to save it until after I had some REAL dyno results on real boost numbers from the rollers themselves. I wanted to make at least ONE "how to" DIY guide for building a single setup, are there are none. I wanted to show some tricks I found and used for my particular build to illustrate any difficulty, or to at least get people more familiar and less mystified with the subject like its some kind of custom voodoo with a welder, parts off a semi, and a savant in a garage. I know it would have made MY build a heck of a lot easier when I was doing my research if something like that was out there to crop up some ideas.
However I don't want to hijack the OP's success thread, I'll make my own soon to show what I did, in the meantime, lets talk t70 single