Aside from your problems... you are losing cause you aren't playing to your strengths.
If 6spd, why not start at 40mph in 2nd gear, no shifting needed to 80mph.
Being a heavy AWD vs Light FWD, starting from a dig is your advantage, not from a roll.
Fix your problems and then see how you do.
Mitsubishi ASA Price List
1994 VR4 3000GT #2 - Under Restoration
2001 Eclipse GT
2005 Civic EX SE - Totalled
1994 VR4 3000GT - Sold
O2. Are going back in on Thursday.
I'll start looking for a boost leak and see if I have a nasty one.
But I would also like to clean the carbon out of my motor, What would be the best Way.?
What kind of datalogger would be a good choice?
hunny, PLEASE all i hear is "blah", ok? in one ear and out the other....
First, agree with all who said you NEED O2 sensors.
Second racing a car without even a proper tune up is not only asking, but begging for big problems. You won't push past low low boost until fuel mix is correct, that's how Mitsu prevented you from blowing your barely running engine while racing the Neons.
Plugs, wires, fuel filter, air filter, pcv valve, o2 sensors.
ALL of those should be NEW or like new condition if racing anything ever.
AFTER, and ONLY after a full tune up should you open it up.
Without a full tune up at the least you are limping a horse with a broken leg around.
Check your ECU codes! There's a reason I call them MisterBitchy's, the computers are picky and want every sensor working right or they run bad and get worse mileage.
I got a racing drop in filter $30, 10MM wires $115, Pulstar IR plugs $120, PCV valve $6, Fuel filter $10 FIRST thing, before I drove it far or hard at all.
The basic tune up/maintence gave me a real platform to develop power with.
You're trying to build a house on a cracked foundation without proper tune up first...
How much boost can you safely run? As of now, your computer is forcing it, 6PSI.
There's major problems and the computer is holding it back.
You can force turn it up, but you will only turn up your problems.
Use oil flush when you change your oil for sure the next few times.
Oh, and a neon can't keep up with these cars top speed, braking, or cornering at all...
Aren't the high end neons pretty similar to lancer evos?
If you can get your maintence done and then at least some basic upgrades you should be able to almost keep up or beat them.
The only cars I've seen remotely keep up in an off the line dig race were over 600HP with really advanced traction control systems, if you have clutch left they won't...
Get an safc2 or flashable ecu/conversion harness/tactrix cable, datalogger setup, and an aem wideband. Tune with first, monitor it all with second, monitor af ratio with third.
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1991 Dodge Stealth ES - The car that started the 3S obsession
Mods: Open air filter, "resonator" bottle removed
1991 Fiji/Mystic Blue R/T TT 1 of 235(paint/R/T TT only, can't find more info, VIN is a 1 of none number)
Sold 6/19/11 to my923ksl
1992 silver VR-4 - 1 of 152 identical
Show: 99 Sails, 99 rear garnish, 2nd-gen steering wheel, Kaze exhaust cover, Pioneer Premier h/u, aftermarket speakers(Alpine type s's I think), 10 inch JL W1 sub in spnallb corner box.
Go: 15G Turbos, FMIC, ATR DP, ACT clutch, 3-inch singleshot(Currently off car due to bottoming out), no cats, HKS SSQV BOV, PWR rad, Ksport coilovers, 3sx rear adj. control arms, fECU w/ FPR solenoid as BCS, Cianci gauge pod w/ Defi D-series(Boost, EGT, oil pres), 93 shifter. 1987 Dodge Ramcharger - The back-up plan. Mods: Non-computerized timing, custom white gauge faces and red LED illumination, cat-back straight pipe, Chevy seats, Ford running boards, and Mopar everything else.
Wife's ride: 2014 Hyundai Sonata 2.0T --still waiting for permission to mod.
It's a 95 vr4. With a first Gen tt motor. Running off of the 95 evidence and harness.
Turn nob apexi boost controler
Auto meter boost gauge
Duel hks side mount intercoolers
3 1/2 exhaust
And the double intake from hks I believe.
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