Spun Bearing Causes - Please Read! - Page 7 - 3000GT/Stealth International Message Center

tabasco122 · 03-14-2008, 12:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Polygon

Grrr, I didn't do my 60k, the dealership did. Anyhow, I took some pictures of mine and I'm not quite sure what to think. The oil light has never come on and the pressure has never dropped, even at high RPM. Do I have a problem?

my sohc with 120k wasnt dented, still spun a bearing somehow...

PHAIL

3000GT MR · 03-14-2008, 12:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Polygon

Grrr, I didn't do my 60k, the dealership did. Anyhow, I took some pictures of mine and I'm not quite sure what to think. The oil light has never come on and the pressure has never dropped, even at high RPM. Do I have a problem?

ohh damn.. if the dealership did that give them an earful. but i'd pull that asap and check bearing clearances/conditions while your there

bluemax_1 · 03-14-2008, 01:34 PM

Can anyone confirm that they dented a pan by resting it on a jack during the 60k when they removed the driver's side engine mount? I always thought that our pans got dented when some numbnut tried to jack the entire car up by the oilpan. Having attempted to bang out a badly dented pan before, I can say that those suckers are actually pretty darn strong.

Most clueless shop idiots look under the car for a jack point and that looks like the part that sticks down the most (that's why I stopped taking the car to shops around here and do the work myself).

Oh, and BTW, I've used an interesting piece of 'equipment' to help with the supporting the engine when removing the driver side motor mount and can confirm it works very well. I supported the engine by the oilpan with a jack but I used the outer ring from a separated OEM crank pulley. Ya know what? It fits very nicely around the bump on the bottom of the oilpan. I also placed a thin sheet of rubber over the ring which was placed on the jack and it didn't leave a single scratch or dent on the oilpan (which I replaced because it had been dented so badly by some numbnut at a shop that I couldn't even bang it out properly).

BTW, an important note to folks. I would assume that you would all do this anyway, but if you replace the oil pickup tube/strainer, or even inspect it especially if there's a potential that it has contacted a dented pan, make sure you replace the gasket that goes from the tube to the oilpump. If the pan contacted the tube, it can crush that gasket slightly and potentially cause an air leak at that spot which is above the oil level in the sump and you get the 'hole in a straw' effect. As Ray's mentioned, the higher the rpms and the greater the draw from the oilpump, the more likely it is to suck air from there if the gasket has been damaged.

I've also considered the idea of welding nubs/legs to the rim of the pickup tube strainer to prevent the possibility of the base of the pan closing off the opening if it gets dented from possibly contacting something on the road. I drive the car through the winter and hate driving behind trucks 'cuz they occasionally drop those huge chunks of ice from their wheelwells. Don't want to chance one of those smacking into the oilpan and denting it causing a spun bearing. Those chunks of ice make me worry about the CFDS too. They can take a whole lot of torque but they're supposedly fairly fragile when it comes to lateral impact from a hard object.

Max

SkortchGT · 03-14-2008, 01:49 PM

When I rebuilt my car I bought a brand new oil pan, strainer, oil filter housing, oil pump, gaskets, oil cooler lines, flushed the cooler, the works.

20-22 psi oil pressure at a 600rpm idle bitches

Polygon · 03-14-2008, 02:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 3000GT MR

ohh damn.. if the dealership did that give them an earful. but i'd pull that asap and check bearing clearances/conditions while your there

Well, I had the 60k done last year and because of health reason I haven't been allowed to change the oil. So I had someone I know do it for me. The thing that sucks is they won't do anything about it now and I can't do anything myself for another two or three weeks.

Quote:

Originally Posted by bluemax_1

Can anyone confirm that they dented a pan by resting it on a jack during the 60k when they removed the driver's side engine mount? I always thought that our pans got dented when some numbnut tried to jack the entire car up by the oilpan. Having attempted to bang out a badly dented pan before, I can say that those suckers are actually pretty darn strong.

I can't confirm but I don't recall that dent being there before I took it into the dealer for the 60k. I've always jacked the front of the car up by the subframe.

993kgtSL · 03-16-2008, 08:10 PM

speed bump + my oil pan = new oil pickup. I'll post pic's up later

nobs · 03-17-2008, 12:05 PM

So...For those looking at additonal insurance, buying one of those
enlarged supercar engineering oil pans not only can provide more clearance
for the pickup tube, but also more oil for high-G loads.

Is Philip's version the only one offered, or are there alternatives?

Thx,
Nobs

Nater3kgtVR4 · 03-17-2008, 12:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nobs

So...For those looking at additonal insurance, buying one of those
enlarged supercar engineering oil pans not only can provide more clearance
for the pickup tube, but also more oil for high-G loads.

Is Philip's version the only one offered, or are there alternatives?

Thx,
Nobs

Thats the one I bought. It's really nice. Have not used it yet but will be.
http://supercar-engineering.com/sc2/...roducts_id=209

DCIV · 03-17-2008, 12:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nobs

So...For those looking at additonal insurance, buying one of those
enlarged supercar engineering oil pans not only can provide more clearance
for the pickup tube, but also more oil for high-G loads.

Is Philip's version the only one offered, or are there alternatives?

Thx,
Nobs

Supercars pan does not give mroe clearance around the pick up tube. Same pan with a kick out.

Coop

bluemax_1 · 03-17-2008, 12:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nobs

So...For those looking at additonal insurance, buying one of those
enlarged supercar engineering oil pans not only can provide more clearance
for the pickup tube, but also more oil for high-G loads.

Is Philip's version the only one offered, or are there alternatives?

Thx,
Nobs

Quote:

Originally Posted by DCIV

Supercars pan does not give mroe clearance around the pick up tube. Same pan with a kick out.

Coop

Yes, and you also want to keep in mind that you don't really want more clearance between the pickup tube and the pan.

If you think about it, it's easy to understand why the pickup tube is so close to the base of the pan. If the pickup tube sits close to the bottom of the pan, it will still be sucking up oil even if the oil level in the sump is low (because a lot of the oil is in the upper parts of the engine while it's running or because a high G corner has pulled more oil away from that side of the sump). The further the pickup is from the bottom of the pan, the higher the oil level can be while STILL allowing the pickup tube to suck air instead of oil (very bad).

If you're really worried about potential catastrophic oil starvation, you can also install one of these:
http://www.accusump.com/acc_tech_how.html

Max

03-14-2008, 01:34 PM	#63 (permalink)
bluemax_1 July 2003 Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: MI Drives: '94 VR-4 Trader Rating: (16)	Re: Spun Bearing Causes - Please Read! Can anyone confirm that they dented a pan by resting it on a jack during the 60k when they removed the driver's side engine mount? I always thought that our pans got dented when some numbnut tried to jack the entire car up by the oilpan. Having attempted to bang out a badly dented pan before, I can say that those suckers are actually pretty darn strong. Most clueless shop idiots look under the car for a jack point and that looks like the part that sticks down the most (that's why I stopped taking the car to shops around here and do the work myself). Oh, and BTW, I've used an interesting piece of 'equipment' to help with the supporting the engine when removing the driver side motor mount and can confirm it works very well. I supported the engine by the oilpan with a jack but I used the outer ring from a separated OEM crank pulley. Ya know what? It fits very nicely around the bump on the bottom of the oilpan. I also placed a thin sheet of rubber over the ring which was placed on the jack and it didn't leave a single scratch or dent on the oilpan (which I replaced because it had been dented so badly by some numbnut at a shop that I couldn't even bang it out properly). BTW, an important note to folks. I would assume that you would all do this anyway, but if you replace the oil pickup tube/strainer, or even inspect it especially if there's a potential that it has contacted a dented pan, make sure you replace the gasket that goes from the tube to the oilpump. If the pan contacted the tube, it can crush that gasket slightly and potentially cause an air leak at that spot which is above the oil level in the sump and you get the 'hole in a straw' effect. As Ray's mentioned, the higher the rpms and the greater the draw from the oilpump, the more likely it is to suck air from there if the gasket has been damaged. I've also considered the idea of welding nubs/legs to the rim of the pickup tube strainer to prevent the possibility of the base of the pan closing off the opening if it gets dented from possibly contacting something on the road. I drive the car through the winter and hate driving behind trucks 'cuz they occasionally drop those huge chunks of ice from their wheelwells. Don't want to chance one of those smacking into the oilpan and denting it causing a spun bearing. Those chunks of ice make me worry about the CFDS too. They can take a whole lot of torque but they're supposedly fairly fragile when it comes to lateral impact from a hard object. Max __________________ 1994 3000GT VR-4. Hobbies... what are hobbies? Oh, those things people do when they're NOT working on their cars?

03-14-2008, 01:49 PM	#64 (permalink)
SkortchGT Warning: I'm an asshole Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Lehigh Valley, PA Drives: 1992 3000GT VR4 Trader Rating: (10)	Re: Spun Bearing Causes - Please Read! When I rebuilt my car I bought a brand new oil pan, strainer, oil filter housing, oil pump, gaskets, oil cooler lines, flushed the cooler, the works. 20-22 psi oil pressure at a 600rpm idle bitches __________________ 1992 3000GT VR4 --Completely rebuilt 5/06-4/07. Everything new. For a list see: http://www.3si.org/forum/showthread.php?t=372579 --First time on dyno: 364AWHP@16psi with a 10.3AFR (now tuned at 11.4-11.6 with timing control, time for another dyno run soon) --Mods: DR Stage I heads, 3rd gen lifters, TD04L 13Gs, DSM SMICs, PTE 550s, Apexi SAFC, Apexi SITC, Walbro FP, IPO hotwire, Robbeck adapter & AEM FPR, 3SX underhood fuel gauge, 3SX fuel rail loop, DN Y-pipe, HKS SSQ BOV, K&N FIPK, Greddy Profec Spec S, AEM WB02, Autometer C2 boost, egt, oil press & water temp gauges, MSD wires, NGK BCP7ES's, TEIN FLEX coilovers, Maximal performance control arms, solid engine mounts & powdercoating, RPS Streetmax Clutch, RPS Flywheel, NBT Tranny (cryotreated OS, shift forks & rails), updated speedo gear, solid shifter bushings, full 2nd gen brake conversion, 3SX SS brake & clutch lines, Carbotech Panther+ pads in the front & Bob Cats in the rear, 3SX clutch vac delete, EGR delete, vac reduction, Ebay DP, gutted pre cats, Bronze FN01RCs 5Zigen 18x8.5 + 30 offset, Pirelli P-Zeros, engine dress up kit, Bigtyla ground wire kit. --Daily Driver: 98 Malibu, 4cyl, auto

03-16-2008, 08:10 PM	#66 (permalink)
993kgtSL Forum Member Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Irvine Drives: 3000gt SL Trader Rating: (9)	Re: Spun Bearing Causes - Please Read! speed bump + my oil pan = new oil pickup. I'll post pic's up later __________________

03-17-2008, 12:05 PM	#67 (permalink)
nobs Forum Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: toronto Drives: 1993 vr4 Trader Rating: (1)	Re: Spun Bearing Causes - Please Read! So...For those looking at additonal insurance, buying one of those enlarged supercar engineering oil pans not only can provide more clearance for the pickup tube, but also more oil for high-G loads. Is Philip's version the only one offered, or are there alternatives? Thx, Nobs

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