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#91 (permalink) |
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no speed limits here
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Some of it not so great. With all known concerns regarding oil pan damage and its associated oil pickup problems, I wouldn't take a chance of supporting the engine in any way using the pan. The issue is well known on this site.
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Steve
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#92 (permalink) |
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Join date: Aug 2006
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There are safe ways to do it. There really aren't that many options to safely lift up the engine. If you use a 2x4 or a THICK and rolled up rag, you can lift the engine up an inch or so to do the 60k. It shouldn't dent it if you do it right and nothing else interferes.(read my post about the jack stands sinking into the blacktop)
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1993 3000gt base - SOLD
1991 3000gt Vr-4(white) - purchased 12-23, given back 4 days later lol. 1991 3000gt vr-4(red) - purchased 12-28 Performance mods : K&N air filter, fully built engine with ross forged rods and pistons, hks ssqv bov, homemade MBC, aluminum y-pipe, 25spline output shaft, steel crank, lightly ported heads, rotora drilled and slotted rotors, gutted main cat, SPEC Stage II. Audio : Sony CDX M8815x headunit, Alpine type-s 6 1/2" door panel speakers, Alpine type-s 6x9" rear speakers. |
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#93 (permalink) | |
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Verified Seller
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WTF dude! No No No and No.
All you have to do is take a 6" piece of 2x4 and position it on the ac compressor bracket right next to the pan, it wedges in there nicely. Quote:
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----------------[2007 Ride of the Year
![]() "Stroke" her I did. Retired - TD04 WRX19t's = 513awhp @ 18psi on PUMP ![]() |
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#94 (permalink) | |
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Join date: Aug 2006
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Quote:
I never knew about that spot I'll definitely try that i the future. If your careful its not as dangerous as you think man. |
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#96 (permalink) |
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Join date: Aug 2006
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This is the way I was taught to do it. I've done it at least 10 times with no dented pans except on my own car. I already explained why that happened. Ask all the shop workers how they do their 60k's.
Last edited by moffman93' : 05-02-2008 at 01:56 PM. |
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#97 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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you guys are dumb im a machanic and i just put a pair of fresh heads on the car and yes i supported the weight of the engine with a jack. Yea it had a rubber face on it plus about 20 rags on top of it and no i didnt dent the oil pan. as long as your not using a jack without a rubber face on it then your fine. The oil pan doesnt have to support that much weight.
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#98 (permalink) | |
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Forest Gump
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Quote:
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![]() Power: DSM 13G/DR650 Combo, DSM 450 cc bluetops, SAFC I, K&N, Ebay Downpipe, ATR Dual Catback, no cats, DN Y-Pipe, HKS SSQV, HKS EVC 5 at 14.5PSI, Walbro 255 with AN Bulkhead 8.07 @ 85.55 1/8th mile 1.84 60FT Suspension: KYB GR-2 - Tein S-Techs, Crossdrilled/slotted rotors, AWS Delete Drivetrain: RPS Street Max, M.W. 300m O/S, Seattle F&R Poly Mounts Etc: Roller Bearing Short Shifter Smokinvr-4 Corner box, 10" Rockford Fosgate Punch sub, Eclipse Headunit Leatherseats.com Charcoal/Dove Grey Interior, 99 front end/lights/wing/sideskirts/doorcaps Maintenance New VSS, all 60K stuff, new 1st,2nd, 3rd syncro, trans seals, oil pump, rod and main bearings. Mobile 1 10w40, Redline MTL in trans, 85w90 Coastal GL5 in transfer case and rear |
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#99 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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you actually can support some of the engine weight with a jack. we use a monopod at work all the time to lift it up and change motor mounts and the like. we jsut use a 2x4 and its all good. just jack it slowly and dont put the whole weight of the engine on it and its fine.
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#100 (permalink) |
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Someone else's mistakes
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I just want to know how you are supposed to support the engine with the a/c bracket if it is out of the car, i.e. doing the oil pump, my problem was I had the tranny out too to do the rear main and output shaft, and motor mounts. I had a large piece of 3/4 plywood that I cut to fit the entire bottom of the pan, I didn't like doing it, who really wants to support their engine by the oil pan anyway? I was okay, but if I were to do it again, hopefull NO time soon I would leave the tranny in and then do the 60k. I think it all depends on ho carful you are, I would have to believe it would take a lot to smash the entire bottom of the pan in that way, i.e. being not careful. It's good to see so much support and discussion on a VERY important topic though.
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DR650R's, supra fuel pump hotwired and aem fuel pressure regulator with bob beck adapter, addicted performance front mount intercooler and piping, ceramin coated inside and out, ebay knockoff DN headers, cusom stillen downpipe, Borla catback, precision turbo 550cc injectors, RPS MAX series clutch, street disc, and RPS segmented aluminum flywheel, 3sx braided stainless turbo feed and return lines, 3sx braided clutch line, fidanza adjustable cam gears, arc2 fuel controller with ford MAS, greddy E-manage blue for fine tuning and timind control, Greddy profec E-01 for boost control, AEM widemand O2, arm-1 narrow band o2, autometer boost gauge, HKS ssqv with custom recirc adapter, 3sx fuel rail adapter.
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