So I am looking around on craigslist...and i find this guy....

[93-3000gt-vr4-tfc]

Originally Posted by Grandpa Poser

so I was like talking to this guy and he said warm tires have better grip than cold tires so maybe you can get some heaters to keep them warm or something like that.

Lol? Really?
About an hour of interstate driving, then a quick 80-150 for a second.

Warmed it all up, I slowed both of us down to 70, got around traffic.

Wide open road, straight for over a mile, 100% view, no exits, nothing.

70-180+. The top of the radiator weeped a little for the first time in months.
Prior owner said he hit 190 on his stage 5 clutch, guess that's y it was trash.

The old owner sold it to me radiator slightly weeping, but over time of driving like not an idiot it wasn't weeping for 6+ months.

Some trans fluid boiled out of the tranny, possibly due to very good lucas oil flow properties/fluid thinning out correctly.

Oh and my tires look like they were slightly dry rotted and when I went so fast now they show it, never going that fast again with out NEWish Z tires.

[VR3.9]

Originally Posted by 93-3000gt-vr4-tfc

My mechanic said at 3rd he felt a delay in the transfer of power into the trans.
I, the driver was only worried about the road and gauges in proper positions.
We think that after about 130-140 all the way to 180+ the clutch was spinning free.

The company told me that even their stage 4 clutch I would have trashed.
Even their stage 4 race clutch would not hold to my DD for over 6-8 months.

That's about 3 clutches to 1 60k service, at 60k engine needs to come out for timing belt etc anyway.

We want ONE clutch to last the 60k, of my duty, incl. once yearly suicide speed(>180).

This carbonetic triple plate, the other clutch company, who don't sell it said would last 5-7 years of my driving.

I noticed it also has a lock in cam gear thing so clutch can't spin past ever again!

Pretty sure it's what I want and need here. No?

I think your obsession with clutches has left you pretty confused.

Easy way to tell if you clutch is toast. Put it in 3rd gear and give it gas. If the rpms go up faster than the car moves it's gone.

transfer of power etc makes no sense.

It is the power of your engine that enables your car to go fast or do awd burnout's. A clutch only allows that power to get to the wheels.

At this point you should ask yourself...... "what kind of tranny and tc do I have 18 or 25 spline? Do I have a TC bracket?" If your clutch or tires don't spin you have a good chance of breaking your tc case.

You don't need a fancy expensive clutch. At your power lever stock vs. $2000 clutch will make no difference accept expensive clutch will make it miserable to drive.

Wait. let me say that again Expensive clutches will make your car a miserable daily driver. Southbend probably makes the most streetable clutch $600-$700.

Again stock power like you have (yes you still have stock power) with stock clutch and decent left foot skill will get you 50-60k miles before changing it.


Oh and one more thing. I don't thin high speed dissolves clutches. Yours was probably slipping so bad so long that it got destroyed from heat. It was bad before you started. I open to others ideas, but I tray to stay out of the movie and video game world and stick to what is logical.

OK, so no more 1000awhp talk and no more $2000 clutch talk.

[DBomb117]

Make sure to replace your windscreen wipers with high performance ones as they will increase your top speed to 205mph

[boon93]

For the record, I was being completely sarcastic. The only way you would be wearing on a clutch in gear is if you're putting down a LOT more power than stock (depending on which clutch you have.) High speed runs won't significantly wear down your clutch, but obviously dumping it from a stop will.

So I have no idea why you think those high speed runs ruined your clutch. I'd be willing to bet that wasn't what caused it.

PS - Yes, no more "no more 1000awhp talk and no more $2000 clutch talk" Hahahaha

Originally Posted by VR3.9

I think your obsession with clutches has left you pretty confused.

Easy way to tell if you clutch is toast. Put it in 3rd gear and give it gas. If the rpms go up faster than the car moves it's gone.

transfer of power etc makes no sense.

It is the power of your engine that enables your car to go fast or do awd burnout's. A clutch only allows that power to get to the wheels.

At this point you should ask yourself...... "what kind of tranny and tc do I have 18 or 25 spline? Do I have a TC bracket?" If your clutch or tires don't spin you have a good chance of breaking your tc case.

You don't need a fancy expensive clutch. At your power lever stock vs. $2000 clutch will make no difference accept expensive clutch will make it miserable to drive.

Wait. let me say that again Expensive clutches will make your car a miserable daily driver. Southbend probably makes the most streetable clutch $600-$700.

Again stock power like you have (yes you still have stock power) with stock clutch and decent left foot skill will get you 50-60k miles before changing it.


Oh and one more thing. I don't thin high speed dissolves clutches. Yours was probably slipping so bad so long that it got destroyed from heat. It was bad before you started. I open to others ideas, but I tray to stay out of the movie and video game world and stick to what is logical.

OK, so no more 1000awhp talk and no more $2000 clutch talk.

[93-3000gt-vr4-tfc]

Talked to the ECU man Eric.
He's great, I see why everyone likes him quickly.
Got the rest of the parts on the way I need to completely restore my ECU! Yay!

The bank will tell me what clutch I can get, loan triple plate, no loan clutch budget is nil.
Next month if no loan I will get a stage 2 again, drop it in, do 60k svc.

If I get loan triple plate clutch, engine block blueprint +50 hone for bigger pistons&rings.
Also will try to get the whole rotating assembly balanced (crank,rods,pistons,harmonic)

How much HP/TQ do you think 50 over will add? Not a lot I'm guessing...

This is my first car to deserve an engine rebuild, any tips would be appreciated.
I can only afford to build the block at this point, yes it's probably stupid, but idk.

I may go ahead and port the lower intake manifold, how far is it safe to do so w/o crack?
If I port the lower intake I guess I will need to remove some of the gasket?

I know the clutch was not properly adjusted, I think this caused it so slip the whole high speed run causing clutch failure. The clutch company said they're not made for that speed, not even stage 4 racing clutch. I was told to explore the top end double or triple.

I don't mind taking some away from the DD for race, as long as I can operate it still.
The only thing I wouldn't want clutch wise is an on off switch like clutch.
It says this clutch operates very similar to stock clutch with faster gear changes.

lol- Dbomb- I found racing wipers on ebay that angle the air just right to give 220! -jk

If I get the triple and I don't like it I'm trying southbend next per your rec. VR3.9

Tranny and TC I'm pretty sure are 25 spline, and crank pretty sure forged.
It's a 93, those are all standard in 93 execept for early early 93 right?

I like this TC brace idea, I've had some strange clunking after trans since poly mounts, might be TC movement now that I think of it. TC brace will stop this/exploding?

I have to creep out in 1st, pull 1st out to hit 2nd at a decent rev, same with all others, I have to pull gears out farther to have enough momentum/high enough rev in next gear to not slip. Any extra gas or to high of a gear and it revs jump with no go.

Clutch pedal is adjusted for max bite, no clutch left to bite.
I limped it to my bank and asked for a personal loan for the best clutch. Answer today!

My left foot skill I thought was very good, I can drive manual better than most I've met except my mechanic. However AWD is quite a bit diff, so is moving a heavy car off the line vs moving a lightweight car off the line. Talked to several people that said that AWD burns clutches a LOT faster than 2WD, basically it's like tow duty with the weight/AWD.

Is double clutching better or worse on the clutch/transmission.
Sometimes it seems to really appreciate it & perfectly sync quickly, but sometimes the trans clunks like it slowed too much/was jarred & was expecting a non- dc.

Oh, last q, sorry. (hate to ask about ebay again but it's in my price range CHEAP)
Are eBay MBCs and FPRs safe to get?
Would a FPR help in my position or just wait till I have other fuel upgrades first?

[93-3000gt-vr4-tfc]

These cars seem to eat a lot of power between engine and wheels.
If you ever hear me talk about 1000+HP again it will be about my new turbos after I have all the supporting mods ready for them. Not a moment sooner, deal.

[jhonie2012]

For the most of us we know what there cars sells for people can asking whatever they want for there car when i see add like that i just laugh cause i know they will get nothing close to it.

[93-3000gt-vr4-tfc]

Hahaha, I was pretty well forced to try to sell the car.
I wrote an ad that would get few/no responses, it worked.
If I really wanted to sell it I would have jumped on the $7,250 offer.
Consider also supply and demand, supply is VERY low, demand is VERY high.
It will def be worth at least 8k with my new clutch!
It was worth $4,500 with a trash clutch factory...
I've got nearly 8k into it with tune up and mods after the new clutch.
8k would be a steal without any labor charge, straight up parts+car.

In summary, a year ago, with less mods, and a lesser clutch $6-7k retail value.
Today, with tons of maintence and current repairs, etc. To the right person 8k.

If I can't get at least 8k out of it when I sell it I'd rather drive it.
Again, that's retail, black book trade value is crap, but I wouldn't TRADE from a vr4 EVER!

[tac_shift]

*speechless*

[sketch2186]

can we sticky this?