I have done a lot of searches, all I found was a 3 year old thread about putting armourall on the belt and filing one of the guides. Mine you have to pull it back and it will retract. Well I have all my interior out right now and was wondering if anyone has found a better fix to the slow/no retract seatbelts?
Shooting for almost completely stock. Smart and nearly invisible upgrades to make the ultimate GT cruiser the platform will allow.
Mods: 9:1 with Ross forged pistons, solid motor mounts ,tcase cage, solid rear diff bushings, Latitude 42 HID projector conversion, Snake-Eyes headlight controller, Renegade Tech Works full 3 stage ECS, Full interior Dynamat (the right way), Fuel pump relay bypass, Tein S-Techs, R1 Concepts cross drilled/slotted rotors, gutted pre cats, Stillen DP.
White 1992 Stealth RT/TT (Stock-ish)
White 1992 3000gt VR-4 (modded)
Red 2002 Audi TT AMLaMans edition coupe
I remember someone said that the guides before the roller get crusted up with human slime/beef.
Originally Posted by fastnelson
went over 250 one time
Originally Posted by ADiggidoyoF
I took her to carmax for an appraisal and after a half hour of compliments and friendly small talk they offered me a grand total of $300. I then asked to use the bathroom and proceeded to fill the back part of the their toilets with full rolls of tp.
Replace it lol, thats what I did. Wish I knew more, but I gave up and swapped out the one that didnt work.
Current cars: 94 SL-AWD DR800s, 95 VR4 DR800s DD, 92 RT/TT, 92 RT/TT, 94 SL, 94 RT/TT
Past cars: 93TT-Parted, 92TT-Parted, 94NA-Parted, 95TT-Parted, 93SL-Parted, 94 VR4-Parted, 95 Spyder-Sold, 91VR4-Sold, 91VR4-Sold 95 VR-4-Totaled, 94 RT/TT-Sold, 94 SL-Sold, 96 SL-Sold, 96 RT-Sold, 94 SL-Sold, 93TT-Sold, 99 NA-Sold, 93TT-Parted, 93TT-Sold, 97 SL-Sold, 94 RT-Parted, 94 NA Parted, 93 RT/TT-Parted, 94 NA-Sold STEALTHS ARE LIKE A TWIN BROTHER, GOOD FOR PARTS!!
Originally Posted by VR-4Madness
To do an awd tt coversion with a new engine costs a lil over 20 g's to do it right, i almost did it. You would have to know cars like the back of your hand to be able to do all of that yourself. Why do you think only a few people have done it?
After digging in all of mine I am stumped. Everything is clean and I can't find anything that could be a separate spring housing to pull and replace. I guess I will look at how ridiculously expensive it is to replace.
Yeah it really would be. But I'm working my rear off to keep this car looking absolutely stock. Can be a real headache as in this situation. I will try and find a good used one or just deal with mine. Got a lead on a used one now so fingers crossed
New product idea: seat belts that work. Common problem from what I've heard, not sure how these things worked new, but mine decide when they do and don't want to work properly. It's always a toss up.
1992 VR4, Java Black Pearl paint ('04 STI) with combo '92/'96/'99 custom front end, Fittipaldi Force or 5Zigen FNO1-RC wheels in the summer, RPS Max pressure plate with street disk, HKS EVC Black Limited, No cats, Tanabe knockoff downpipe, Single Turbo Flamer fabricated 3" cat back, Greddy type RS recirculating BOV, K&N intake, DNP hard pipe intercooler kit, DNP pre-turbo intake pipes, 3sx fuel pump hotwire, Fuel rail loop, AEM AFPR, Fuel rail adapter & pressure gauge, Vacuum reduction - all silicone plumbing, EGR block off plates, '99 Lifters, Cianci front & rear strut bars, HHH data logging
I know you just took your interior out, so I should mention that the seat belts won't retract when they are out of the car. At least they didn't for me the last time I took them out. I think it has something to do with them being anchored and counter weighted maybe. Did you have this problem when they were in the car?
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