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#1 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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ok so maby 1 month ago every so often my engine would squeel at me when my rpms went right or giving it to much gas. so i was stupid and would always forget about the occourance by the time i got home. well one day driving home from school, right from start up the car was squeeling at me, drove it home sh!tting my pants thinking it was gunna blow! so this weekend i took it apart thinking its my idler pully because when i had it in the garage then i sprayed WD-40 on the idler pully it would stop squeeking, well i took it off and put another one on, and that didnt stop anything, well i looked at it for a while when it was running and saw the biggest pully on the serpentine belt swaying back and forth, that is also where the noise was coming from. anyone ever have this problem and know how to fix it?
also heres a video i took of my squeeling engine, i started it with my A/C on and when i turned it off for some reason the sound seems to slow down. |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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I'm not sure if you're turning the a/c, use the off button, on my 93 the lcd turns off when it's actually off.
how many miles? how far from the 60k or 120k are you?
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1993 Pearl White VR-4 twin 16g
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#3 (permalink) |
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3s in florida!
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I think you need to tighten up the slack in your serpentine belts, mine does the same thing I've just not gotten around to doing it...I think the easiest way is to remove the driver front wheel and remove the plastic splash guards and you can get it at from there.
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Looking for:
17/18inch rims with good tires (prefer 5zigen! or another 5spoke) NA Testpipe Passport x50 blue junker 2nd gen lexan headlights any color 2g cf hood Last edited by Driftersdr : 05-11-2008 at 10:16 PM. Reason: Now I see the car is already apart.. should be an easy fix! |
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#4 (permalink) | |
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Chatters
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Quote:
If you get your belt too tight it will make it squeak like that also.
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#5 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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well when i mean turn the A/C off i mean the fan at least i think the serpentine belt is conected to the fan, well atleast when it does that the squeeling slows down, i think its because when the A/C is off my idle goes down causing my RPMs to go down causeing the serpentine belt to go slower around the pulleys, which causes that big belt to squeel less. now because of that my step dad thinks its my A/c compressor/pulley wheel but i still say its that big pulley. if someone doesnt mind doing a check or if they know, turn on your car go to the engine pop the hood and look down at the serpentine belt, theres the idler pulley at the top then to the right of that(if your looking at it from the front drivers side fender) is the big wheel under/wrapped around by the belt(dont know the name sadly) if you can see is that shaking or moving in a odd way? mines very shaky when the engines on but i have my inside panels off and the belt off and try to move it by hand and it wont mo at all, i think it might be off balanced.(the wheel/pulley ive been talking about has something to do with the word balance lol)
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#6 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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yea i also the way i checked my two pulleys(the idler pulley and the lower adjustable one is by i have a 94 3kgt parts car and i just grabber the two off there as it was my first guess and put them on. when i started it again it was making the exact same noise... anyone know the exact tightness it should be?
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#7 (permalink) |
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Chatters
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That's the harmonic balancer, the big pulley. It does look like it's jumpin' around when you show it from the top. Could be it's gettin' ready to come apart. I tend to agree with your dad though, the idler pulley on your ac would also make that sound. If it is your Harmonic balancer, you can get a better than stock replacement at 3sx.com
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#8 (permalink) |
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GTONW is good to go
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the crank pully has been poorly fitted, its not been sat on the roll pin locator and is cocked over on tightening. the squeel is a dry idler, remove both idlers that have the inner bearing and put oil on there as you would a skate wheel and spin them. then refit making sure the crank pully sits on the locator properly
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#9 (permalink) |
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DSM GURU
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Harmonic balancer isn't set on its key as described above or is starting to seperate. I'd take it off to verify.
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1992 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR-4 RIP 3/06
1990 Eagle Talon TSI AWD - 11.29@126 - SOLD 1991 Dodge Stealth RT/TT - K&N / MSD Wires / 2.5" Downpipes Merged 4" Cat-back / Hotwired Walbro 255hp / Aeromotive AFPR / Scanmaster 3 / Innovate LM-1 / F&R Solid Motor Mounts / Greddy RS BOV / TD04-13T / Seattle STS / CXRacing FMIC |
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#10 (permalink) |
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New User - Please be kind
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I know exactly what the problem is. The outer metal ring is separating from the rubber part of the harmonic balancer(crank pulley). This exact thing happened to me with the same squeaking that got worse when the A/c was started. Also the outer part of the pulley wobbled.
You have a couple of choices. You can replace it with another regular harmonic balancer for $270-$290. Or replace it with a custom billet aluminum crank pulley from Daniel at 3SX.com for $119.00 that was 5 pounds lighter and claims to increase HP by 10-15. The old one slipped right off and the new one slid on snugly. Once the new pulley was installed, the car was started and the squealing was gone. The tools I used were a 12mm ratcheting wrench, a 14mm ratcheting wrench, an impact wrench to remove the pulley bolt, and a 22mm socket for the impact wrench. Also a 1/2" drive ratchet was used to fit into the slot of the power steering tensioner to move it. To access the pulley and the drive belt tensioner you will need to remove the driver's side tire and the plastic panels in the fender well. Loosen the center 14mm center bolt on the drive belt tensioner then adjust the 12mm bolt you can see sticking up from the top back to move the tensioner. The power steering belt requires a 14mm wrench to loosen the 2 bolts in the middle and the base. Then use a 1/2" drive ratchet in the notch of the tensioner to move it. Mechanic skills required on a scale of 1-10 is about a 5 or so. Set aside about an hour to complete the task. Rick |
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