rebuild soon - 3000GT/Stealth International Message Center

slow91stealth · 05-11-2008, 12:11 AM

Ok well my car is going to be sitting for a while anyway so i thought why not just fix everything while its down and out. i was thinking about doing a teardown and rebuild. in the end i know i want to have new 3gen lifters, 2gen forged crank, new rings, all new gaskets, 60/120k service, and whatever else i find thats wrong during the process will be fixed as well. heres my question. i plan on taking out the motor and putting it on an engine stand for more ease but while its out and im doing the repairs and upgrades(lifters and crank) are there any other problem areas that i should look into? before i pull it out i plan on doing a compression test, running compression, and cylinder leakdown. are there any other test that should be performed before removal that could help me diagnose what i should replace and upgrade? I dont want to go and make this motor a race motor as it will be a daily driver, i just want the engine to be strong. upgrades and future upgardes are listed in my sig so if you want to make opinions based on those just read below.
thanks in advance
-Joe

DCIV · 05-11-2008, 04:03 AM

You know you cant just swap cranks out right? You have to have the whole engine balanced if you want to change out cranks. Also if your going to put in new rings then you have to hone the walls. Start reading man, its not fun to do trust me I have been going through it for a yr now.

Coop

slow91stealth · 05-11-2008, 07:39 AM

sorry about the multiple thread i was just waiting to see whick got the response and thend id close the other. wont do it again.
i knew about the honing and i already have the tool for it. not that bad sine the motor will already be apart. i did not know that you needed to balance the entire motor for a brand new crank. ive read people threads about them and it didnt come up in the few that i read. so im lookin at a lot more than just crank and rings, im lookin at pretty much all brand new internals?

DCIV · 05-11-2008, 08:15 AM

you dont need new rods and pistons for a rebuild if you didnt spin any bearings but you have to have everything balanced for everything else. I also wouldnt hone your walls and just put new rings, it might not seal and you should prob let a machine shop do that. Bore and hone doesnt cost that much. I think it was 12 bucks per cyl for a bore and hone. Then another 150-200 for balancing, then 150-300 for assembly. Depending on the shop the prices are going to very. How many miles and why do you think you need to do all of this stuff?

Coop

slow91stealth · 05-11-2008, 12:46 PM

well i need to replace my lifters cause ive got 4 that are ticking and ive read that if the motors out its a much easier job, also i need to do a tranny rebuild(2nd and reverse are shot and 3rd is goin) so while im taking out the tranny i might was well take out the motor and do what work i can on it until my tranny comes back. the forged crank was just to have the lighter better crank instead of the stock 1gen. i didnt plan on touching the rings unless my tests came out that i should(cylinder leak, compression). i just want to make my motor run stong with no problems or noise(ticking). its never given me a problem and its got like 140k on the clock so it is definatly time to change over all the gaskets at least at least, which involves taking it apart, and with it already apart i thought id do what i could, lifters and crank, before i put it back together

DCIV · 05-11-2008, 12:54 PM

Changing lifters is nothing, and can do that with the engine in the car. How do you know you have 4 that are ticking? You can change your bearings but you better know what your doing. I dont know if the 2nd gen crank is really any lighter to speak of. I am scared for what you have been reading man.

Coop

Alt0id · 05-11-2008, 01:21 PM

I'm still failing to see why you are doing a rebuild?

slow91stealth · 05-11-2008, 02:07 PM

well i used a stethoscope to listen in on each lifter and noticed that 4 were louder than the others but even if one is just ticking im still replacing all of em.
i read in a few threads that the forged 2gen crank is lighter than the 1gen by not alot bt enough to make a difference and that it was stronger as well. if that isnt true then i dont have to do it and ill be all set.
ive done rods, pistons, bearings and cranks on other cars before and im a graduated automotive student as well so its not that bad

i plan on doing a few upgrades in the not to distance future and i want the motor to be strong enough to handle the power. just a precaution not that i need to do it i just want to.

DCIV · 05-11-2008, 02:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by slow91stealth

well i used a stethoscope to listen in on each lifter and noticed that 4 were louder than the others but even if one is just ticking im still replacing all of em.
i read in a few threads that the forged 2gen crank is lighter than the 1gen by not alot bt enough to make a difference and that it was stronger as well. if that isnt true then i dont have to do it and ill be all set.
ive done rods, pistons, bearings and cranks on other cars before and im a graduated automotive student as well so its not that bad

i plan on doing a few upgrades in the not to distance future and i want the motor to be strong enough to handle the power. just a precaution not that i need to do it i just want to.

Your a graduate automotive student and you didnt know when changing something like a crank that you have to have everything balanced? I am not going to say its not light because honestly I dont know but the weight is not the issue between the two cranks. Yes the 2nd gen forged crank is stronger then the 1st gen cast crank. Just depends on what power your talking about. I wasnt saying dont replace the lifters just curious how you picked 4. There is just a big diff. between changing lifters out and rebuilding your engine.

Coop

slow91stealth · 05-11-2008, 03:30 PM

no i just forgot about balancing blueprinting and everything like that. i just wasnt thinking but yea i am an automotive graduate and i passed everything with all A's including the High Performance section that my school offers which includes basic dyno runs and tuning.
i understand the huge difference between changing lifters and a rebuild but thats my issue. i was wondering if it was worth doing or if i should just stick with replacing the lifters and gaskets and seals. but i guess ill just be doin gaskets, seals, 60/120k, lifters and just see how all the tests come out. and if i fail any tests ill take it from there.

05-11-2008, 12:11 AM	#1 (permalink)
slow91stealth SlowTT Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Cranston, RI Drives: not right now Trader Rating: (28)	rebuild soon Ok well my car is going to be sitting for a while anyway so i thought why not just fix everything while its down and out. i was thinking about doing a teardown and rebuild. in the end i know i want to have new 3gen lifters, 2gen forged crank, new rings, all new gaskets, 60/120k service, and whatever else i find thats wrong during the process will be fixed as well. heres my question. i plan on taking out the motor and putting it on an engine stand for more ease but while its out and im doing the repairs and upgrades(lifters and crank) are there any other problem areas that i should look into? before i pull it out i plan on doing a compression test, running compression, and cylinder leakdown. are there any other test that should be performed before removal that could help me diagnose what i should replace and upgrade? I dont want to go and make this motor a race motor as it will be a daily driver, i just want the engine to be strong. upgrades and future upgardes are listed in my sig so if you want to make opinions based on those just read below. thanks in advance -Joe __________________ My Crew: Team Knight Vizion My Car: 1991 Dodge Stealth RT/TT Pearl Metallic White 320hp V6 Twin Turbo All Wheel Drive from the factory My Mods: FMIC(front Mount InterCooler) w/ Greddy RS Type BOV, Gutted Pre-Cats, Walboro 255 Fuel Pump ,IPO Fuel Pump Install Kit, IPO Fuel Pump Hotwire Kit ,EK2 Fuel Loop, Blitz FATT Turbo Timer ,KYB GR-2 Struts, TEIN S-Tech Lowering Springs, Power Slot Rotors and Pads, 3x 52mm Tripple Pillar Pod, AEM UEGO Wideband O2, AEM TRU-BOOST Boost Controller, Autometer Shiftlight, Optima Redtop Battery(relocated),Topline Engineering Ground Wire Kit, Accell Sparkplug Wires, NGK Iridium Sparkplugs, General Denastification(vaccum reduction), Powdercoated Gloss Black and Polished Lettering Valve Cover/Intake Manifold, Polished Sparkplug Cover With Red Lettering Comming Electronics: Glovebox Mounted Laptop w/ HandHeldHalo Datalogging Program, Windows Media Player Wired to Stereo, Custom Mounted External CD/DVD Player Soon: Maft Translator with 3" GM MAF in Blow-Thru Setup, 550cc Injectors Near Future: Kormex 5 Speed Transmission and X-Case, IPS Shorty DP w/ Exhaust Cutout, IPS FPR w/ Gauge, IPS Full Fuel Kit, 15G Turbos, Cianci Victory Racing Hood, DeftRacing Viper Venom Front Bumper, Custom 2-Tone Peal White Bottom Peal Black Top Paintjob

05-11-2008, 04:03 AM	#2 (permalink)
DCIV never a dull moment Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Morristown, TN Drives: 92 VR4 Trader Rating: (12)	Re: rebuild soon You know you cant just swap cranks out right? You have to have the whole engine balanced if you want to change out cranks. Also if your going to put in new rings then you have to hone the walls. Start reading man, its not fun to do trust me I have been going through it for a yr now. Coop __________________ To many mods to list.

05-11-2008, 07:39 AM	#3 (permalink)
slow91stealth SlowTT Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Cranston, RI Drives: not right now Trader Rating: (28)	Re: rebuild soon sorry about the multiple thread i was just waiting to see whick got the response and thend id close the other. wont do it again. i knew about the honing and i already have the tool for it. not that bad sine the motor will already be apart. i did not know that you needed to balance the entire motor for a brand new crank. ive read people threads about them and it didnt come up in the few that i read. so im lookin at a lot more than just crank and rings, im lookin at pretty much all brand new internals?

05-11-2008, 08:15 AM	#4 (permalink)
DCIV never a dull moment Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Morristown, TN Drives: 92 VR4 Trader Rating: (12)	Re: rebuild soon you dont need new rods and pistons for a rebuild if you didnt spin any bearings but you have to have everything balanced for everything else. I also wouldnt hone your walls and just put new rings, it might not seal and you should prob let a machine shop do that. Bore and hone doesnt cost that much. I think it was 12 bucks per cyl for a bore and hone. Then another 150-200 for balancing, then 150-300 for assembly. Depending on the shop the prices are going to very. How many miles and why do you think you need to do all of this stuff? Coop

05-11-2008, 12:46 PM	#5 (permalink)
slow91stealth SlowTT Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Cranston, RI Drives: not right now Trader Rating: (28)	Re: rebuild soon well i need to replace my lifters cause ive got 4 that are ticking and ive read that if the motors out its a much easier job, also i need to do a tranny rebuild(2nd and reverse are shot and 3rd is goin) so while im taking out the tranny i might was well take out the motor and do what work i can on it until my tranny comes back. the forged crank was just to have the lighter better crank instead of the stock 1gen. i didnt plan on touching the rings unless my tests came out that i should(cylinder leak, compression). i just want to make my motor run stong with no problems or noise(ticking). its never given me a problem and its got like 140k on the clock so it is definatly time to change over all the gaskets at least at least, which involves taking it apart, and with it already apart i thought id do what i could, lifters and crank, before i put it back together

Sponsored Links
3000GT/Stealth International Message Center Advertisement

05-11-2008, 12:54 PM	#6 (permalink)
DCIV never a dull moment Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Morristown, TN Drives: 92 VR4 Trader Rating: (12)	Re: rebuild soon Changing lifters is nothing, and can do that with the engine in the car. How do you know you have 4 that are ticking? You can change your bearings but you better know what your doing. I dont know if the 2nd gen crank is really any lighter to speak of. I am scared for what you have been reading man. Coop

05-11-2008, 01:21 PM	#7 (permalink)
Alt0id Forum Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Rockford, Illinois Drives: '94 3000GT SL Trader Rating: (1)	Re: rebuild soon I'm still failing to see why you are doing a rebuild? __________________ 1994 3000GT SL Auto, 0-62 in 3.5 minutes.

05-11-2008, 02:07 PM	#8 (permalink)
slow91stealth SlowTT Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Cranston, RI Drives: not right now Trader Rating: (28)	Re: rebuild soon well i used a stethoscope to listen in on each lifter and noticed that 4 were louder than the others but even if one is just ticking im still replacing all of em. i read in a few threads that the forged 2gen crank is lighter than the 1gen by not alot bt enough to make a difference and that it was stronger as well. if that isnt true then i dont have to do it and ill be all set. ive done rods, pistons, bearings and cranks on other cars before and im a graduated automotive student as well so its not that bad i plan on doing a few upgrades in the not to distance future and i want the motor to be strong enough to handle the power. just a precaution not that i need to do it i just want to.

05-11-2008, 03:30 PM	#10 (permalink)
slow91stealth SlowTT Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Cranston, RI Drives: not right now Trader Rating: (28)	Re: rebuild soon no i just forgot about balancing blueprinting and everything like that. i just wasnt thinking but yea i am an automotive graduate and i passed everything with all A's including the High Performance section that my school offers which includes basic dyno runs and tuning. i understand the huge difference between changing lifters and a rebuild but thats my issue. i was wondering if it was worth doing or if i should just stick with replacing the lifters and gaskets and seals. but i guess ill just be doin gaskets, seals, 60/120k, lifters and just see how all the tests come out. and if i fail any tests ill take it from there.