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#1 (permalink) |
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Cyberwwolf!!
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Is normal that when I left the car in garage for a couple of days and then try to push the clutch pedal it is very (very) hard (until I turn the engine on) or I have any leak in that circuit that help the clutch pedal to be soft?
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1992 Dodge Stealth RT/TT
Engine: K&N open intake, polished plenum, powdercoated valve cover, polished radiator cover, painted timing belt covers, red silicone hoses,cold air intake, chrome oil cap,Polished engine cover kit,... Exhaust:Stainsless steel catback with no mufflers and stock tips look,test pipe. Interior: Stainsless Stell door sills, autometer gauges. Suspensions: Tein S.tech springs, -2° camber... ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ---> http://www.dodgestealth.it <--- |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Supporting Vendor
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Thats normal.. you have a clutch boost.. Run off of your Vacuum..
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Jason@PriceMatchedParts.com 3000GT/Stealth Performance parts! www.PriceMatchedParts.com PMP on Facebook!! PMP on Myspace!! PMP on Twitter.com too!! PMP on Digg check out PMP CCOTM! 91 vr4- Budget build! stay tuned! 1 of 3 in the US |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Certified Car Nut
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The clutch booster has a vacuum reservoir that provides vacuum with the engine off. Theoretically, the reservoir should hold vacuum indefinitely AFAIK. Most likely you have a tinly leak in one of the rubber hoses between the penum and the reservoir, or on the reservoir itself. If the vacuum is lasting 2 days, then it's probably no big deal. You should get the vacuum back once the engine is started.
Clutch "chatter" is felt when the clutch is being slipped as it's being enaged. Chatter is usually prevalent when running an aftermarket performance puck-style clutch, but could also be felt with a warped flywheel or pressure plate, or contaminates on the clutch disc friction surfaces. It has nothing to do with the clutch booster, clutch vacuum, or the TOB.
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Jeff W.
Red '92 VR4 214,000 mile daily driver that run's 11's! Once I convinced the wife I needed 600hp to drive to work every day, 1/4 mile at a time, the rest was easy ![]() Big 16G Turbos w/IPS headers and pre-cat eliminators, DR Stage 3 heads, 92mm Wiseco pistons, PTE 680cc injectors, ARC2 fuel controller, HKS Twin-Power Ignition, HKS EVC IV BC, HKS SSBOV, Alamo I/C's and HardPipe kit, ATR DP, Borla exhaust, NeedsWings Electronic Exhaust Cutout, MSD 8.5mm plug wires, Denso Stage1 fuel pump, DR Fuel Pump Hotwire Kit, South Bend FE/SS Stage 5 clutch, Boost Cooler water/meth injection, DynoTech Metal-Matrix aluminum driveshaft, no cats, Eibach lowering springs, PowerStop/Stillin rotors, Goodrich SS brake lines, PSI Tire Pressure Monitor System, AEM Wide-Band O2, Fittipaldi wheels, 2-tone all-leather Interior. |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Cyberwwolf!!
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Thanks for answer. I payed attention to this, also after few hours the engine is off, the pedal is very hard so I think I've a leak. I talked about clutch chatter because I thought that a leak somewhere would cause inconstant pressure on clutch and so have clutch chatter (you know when you're moving the car with just clutch pedal and you've the pedal pressed at the same position for few seconds but clutch chatter occurs) don't know if it's clear what I want to say
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