Q&A with Trevor!

[AdamVR4]

Originally Posted by SnakeSkinner

if 10’s can be run under those conditions just about anybody can run 10’s with the right set-up if you are a ½ way competent driver.

I'm a no-driving ass clown

[Trevor]

Originally Posted by grtn316

Question: Can you give us a list of what is necessary for your 10 second pass?

Necessary/Essential IMO....
- Big Turbos (28+ psi at 6600 and good turbine flow)
- 645's or larger injectors
- Accurate/Tunable fuel control (Piggyback or AEM)
- Some sort of dual intake (or a single with a HUGE filter)
- Wideband O2
- Fuel pump hotwired
- A second fuel pump or a fuel pump voltage booster
- Colder plugs
- Some sort of heavy blow off valve (I reccomend a Greddy Type-R or a Tial)
- Boost gauge
- A bad ass clutch
- Full exhaust
- Boost controller
- Race gas

Specific things that aren't exactly essential but they make 10's a whole lot easier to get
- Weight loss
- Some sort of datalogging for the wideband O2
- Speed density fueling to open up the intake
- A Carbon Carbon Twin Disc Clutch
- Front LSD
- Drag Radials
- Stiff suspension (to minimize unloading the front tires)
- A front mount IC and/or alcohol injection
- REALLY good race gas (I'm talking C16)
- Timing control

[Hans91GT]

Originally Posted by AdamVR4

Are you sure about that??

That's right, I believe his was a custom setup. But, if people are looking for a premade one, it's hard to beat the quality that S&W provides.

[Trevor]

Originally Posted by StealthTT93

Q - how much for a set up like yours/ballpark figure ok/?

I'd be here for like 10 years adding it all up. Here's the 3/S specific shops I shop at:
http://www.dynamicracing.com/customer/home.php
http://www.kormextrans.com/
http://www.3sxperformance.com/
http://www.supercarengineering.com/
http://www.gtpro.com/index.cfm
http://www.alteredatmosphere.com/ (last option)

[slage]

Great thread Trevor. I have many questions myself but Ithink i can learn a lot just by watching

[Trevor]

Originally Posted by 91vr4n00maxima

how are you liking the CC clutch? you are one of the few ppl i havent seen complain about it in some way.

I love it. The only negatives are its VERY expensive, it makes funny noises when you slip it around town, and I've had one fail on me. I broke one of the old style disc frames. The positive thing i have to say is RPS has always stood behind their products for me. It may cost alot of the initial upgrade but I've surely got my money's worth. They replaced my broken clutch for minimum cost. I bet they lost some money on it.

I attribute my C/C twin to keeping my car in one piece with the drag radials. I think if I were running 4-275mm DR's and a front LSD with a puck clutch I'd probably be picking up pieces of my tranny every time I launched. The C/C slips on its own for the first few feet...until it gets some heat in it then locks up automatically. Once I grab 2nd gear it hits HARD. It's like a slipper clutch in a dragster. It's great. My past 1.55 60's show that. I just need to get some practice and get the feel back.

[Trevor]

Originally Posted by DJAuggie

Your launching technique?

I hold 5600-5800 depending on how good the track is. If its REALLY exceptional I'll hold 5900. I start letting the clutch out and feeding in more throttle on the 2nd yellow light on the tree. Usually I'll cut a decent light doing that. I let out the clutch and feed in throttle very quickly because the faster you can get the clutch out and start putting down every HP you have the higher your average HP down the track is going to be...and high average power equates to great ET's.

[Trevor]

Originally Posted by LVA3KGT

Why did you pick that boost controller? What other have you used- if any? What are the key differences?

i bought the HKS EVCIV back in the day before the V came out. It works great so I see no reason to upgrade. I can teach it the boost curve by doing two 3rd gear pulls. After that all I have to do is dial in the boost. No offsets, start boost, or other crazy trim crap to play with. If I want to I can even turn on the self-learning funtion and have it learn REALLY accurate control.

I've used an AVC-R, a Profec B-Spec 2, and a ball & spring manual. I didn't like the trims, offsets, and start boost settings in the AVC-R and Profec. Not when I know how much simpler things can be with a controller like the EVC IV. And of course when you have to make 0.7 psi adjustments at a time with the boost to find every last HP then a manual controller is out of the question.

[Trevor]

Originally Posted by LVA3KGT

When you compare you WB a/f readings to your Arm1 readings, do you find that the Arm1 is off by a lot or a little- and to what direction is it off?

They're two different animals. Before I had a wideband I remember the ARC2/ARM1 manual said to tune for the 1st blue light on the ARM1. I found out that my car was slow there so I started tuning for just barely lighting the second light. After I got a wideband i found out why my car was slow on the 1st blue light...its lit as lean as 13.8:1! Talk about blowing up motors!

Now the ARM1's stay just because I use them to verify that both banks are dithering (Sweeping) while cruising and idling. They make a quick reference and an easy way to know that neither bank are hanging rich or lean. Full throttle tuning is left up to logging the wideband O2 and making changes. i don't even look at the ARM1's at full throttle.

[Trevor]

Originally Posted by maddux317

Where did you get your cage and what was the cost? Also would like to see some pics of your cage if you've got any. thanks

The roll bar was made by a local race chassis fabricator. I paid $990 for it and it looks exactly like the example in the NHRA rulebook (I didn't want to get any grief from the tech inspectors). After he finished my bar (two days late) he told me he'd never do another 3/S for less than $1200. It's thin wall chromoly with the rear support bars pulled in to minimize weight. It's still like 59 lbs though. 6x6 plates welded to floor.

Here's a few pics of it just after I got it...it's painted flat black now (low key):