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Old 03-31-2006, 01:07 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Default Re: Q&A with Trevor!

Quote:
Originally Posted by spewing oil
I got a Q.

How much do you think weight savings helps you? in general.
Usually people quote 100 lbs per tenth in the 1/4 but with power that number changes. At my power level it takes about 125-145 lbs to slow me down a tenth . So I'm 3395 lbs now. I used to be at 3600 lbs when my only weight mods were:
-Gutted Pre-Cats
-ATR Downpipe with no main cat
-Borla Cat-Back

If I were at 3600 lbs again the computer guesses I'd be 0.14 seconds slower and at 3671 lbs (stock) I'd be 0.22 seconds slower.
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Old 03-31-2006, 01:13 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Default Re: Q&A with Trevor!

Quote:
Originally Posted by VR-4ever
How much nitrous (AEM controlled) would you throw on 15G's running full blast on race fuel?
I have no experience with nitrous and I'm not going to blow smoke up your butt.

I do know how I'd approach it though. If it was a 1G it'd be easy. Just log knock and sneak up on it. On a 2G I'd start with a small shot and the boost turned down. Get it on the dyno or at the track and watch the power numbers (1/8th > 1/4 gain on the timeslip). Slowly feed in boost (less than 1 psi per test). Once your power gains disappear due to knock induced timing retard I'd turn the boost way back down and up the shot one notch and retest...adding boost VERY SLOWLY again. See where you plateau at. Repeat until you find the sweet spot. It's a very slow process but its the only way to do it decently safely.
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Old 03-31-2006, 01:17 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Default Re: Q&A with Trevor!

Your launching technique?
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Old 03-31-2006, 01:20 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Default Re: Q&A with Trevor!

Why did you pick that boost controller? What other have you used- if any? What are the key differences?
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Old 03-31-2006, 01:22 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Default Re: Q&A with Trevor!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Trevor
I have no experience with nitrous and I'm not going to blow smoke up your butt.

I do know how I'd approach it though. If it was a 1G it'd be easy. Just log knock and sneak up on it. On a 2G I'd start with a small shot and the boost turned down. Get it on the dyno or at the track and watch the power numbers (1/8th > 1/4 gain on the timeslip). Slowly feed in boost (less than 1 psi per test). Once your power gains disappear due to knock induced timing retard I'd turn the boost way back down and up the shot one notch and retest...adding boost VERY SLOWLY again. See where you plateau at. Repeat until you find the sweet spot. It's a very slow process but its the only way to do it decently safely.
That's a good approach, thanks bro. =)
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Old 03-31-2006, 01:22 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Default Re: Q&A with Trevor!

When you compare you WB a/f readings to your Arm1 readings, do you find that the Arm1 is off by a lot or a little- and to what direction is it off?
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Old 03-31-2006, 01:24 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Default Re: Q&A with Trevor!

Quote:
Originally Posted by skunkworks
how long have you been running speed density and how do you like it? Any tune issues? where do you have your intake temp sensor mounted?

add - and shouldn't it be as close to the map sensor as possible?

sam
I've been running speed desnity for about 2 years now (used to be with the MAP ECU). It's GREAT! I've heard some people talk about tuning issues with OBD2 cars but I think they're doing soething wrong as I don't have any. I'm not sure what it is but something is up with that.

The MAP ECU's IAT was mounted on the brake lines right next to the air filters. Yes, true speed density is designed to use intake air temperature in the plenum (close to the MAP sensor) but our latest cheater piggyback systems are not true speed density (the VPC was but that's another topic). The MAP ECU and Emanage Ultimate both feed IAT to the stock computer and let it make its trims just like it did in the stock config. The mitsu engineers based the IAT maps on intake air before the turbos...not hot charge air. If you start feeding the stock computer 200+F numbers its not going to make the appropriate corrections for it. It was never designed to account for temps in any location except for BEFORE the turbos.
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Old 03-31-2006, 01:26 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Default Re: Q&A with Trevor!

Quote:
Originally Posted by HilbillyHomeboy
How's your ground clearance with the 4" exhaust? Where is the muffler mounted along the piping?
I have 3.75" of clearance as it swings around the diff.

A crappy pic:

That's the muffler right before the tip.

Last edited by Trevor : 03-31-2006 at 01:55 PM.
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Old 03-31-2006, 01:28 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Default Re: Q&A with Trevor!

Where did you get your cage and what was the cost? Also would like to see some pics of your cage if you've got any. thanks
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1998 VR4 - Red - 1 of 231
15g's | PTE 550's | Walbro 255 | Apexi SAFC w/ Boomslang Harness | Maximal Performance Solid F/R Mounts | Stillen Downpipe | MSD Superconductor 8.5s | JIC Y-Pipe | Old school ProBoost MBC | EVOScan Logger (logging knock on OBDII baby!) | Kazera KZ-A 18x8.5's | Yokahoma AVS ES100 Tires

1/8: 8.1 @ 89 MPH, 1.9 60' (soft launch on stock clutch) - 16 PSI/rich tune & leaking stock y-pipe

coming soon: more runs with MORE BOOST!
-------------
1990 Mustang GT - not stock - Gone but never forgotten.....
-------------
1992 Mitsubishi 3000GT SLTT - Formerly the SLSC - My first love (15g 10:1 TT Conversion) - Parting Out
-------------
Old setup (worn 9b's, broken motor mounts, M&S tires, 6 psi) 1/8: 9.3 @ 85 MPH
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Old 03-31-2006, 01:35 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Default Re: Q&A with Trevor!

when Tuner Transformation installed their MAP ECU on their supra. They drilled and tapped their air temp sensor in the actual manifold? Is that a better place?

Also I have... Phantom turbo's. Are 650 cc injectors a reasonable choice for street running around 18-20 lbs boost? Supra fuel pump(not hotwired but I prob better). My goals... A nice street 400hp car not needing race gas visiting the track maybe 3 times a year.

Fuel pressure, stick with stock levels right?
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