Problems with boosting and stuttering

[BlackStealth]

I compared my old PCV valve with the new and noticed the springs are stretched in the old valve. Replacing the PCV valve will fix a minor boost leak and oil cap leak, but this didn't fix the big problem I'm trying to solve.

Tomorrow I'm gonna do pressure test again.

[Mad Dog Bodine]

Originally Posted by BlackStealth

I compared my old PCV valve with the new and noticed the springs are stretched in the old valve. Replacing the PCV valve will fix a minor boost leak and oil cap leak, but this didn't fix the big problem I'm trying to solve.

Tomorrow I'm gonna do pressure test again.

Interesting....I have been thinking more about my problem and the other day while driving....I stomped the gas down....and when it stuttered it stuttered HARD. Like what I would think fuel cut would feel like, or maybe spark blow out. The car shook violently. Whereas before....it was more of a flutter....the care would stutter and hesitate, but it would be smooth. If that makes any sense. Unfortunately, didn't have my logger hooked up. Then, while experimenting....I slowly accelerated, from 1st to 2nd, bringing the RPMS up over 5000, but not boosting, and then in 2nd I started to hear my BOV make a whistle sound as it started to creep into boost. I have an old (crappy) RFL BOV, that I will admit I bought years(6+) ago, partly for the "sound" and cause it was cheap. My Stock BOV was hooting like crazy so I bought the RFL. Its open Atmosphere, and I have never once had a problem with it, no stalling no anything. It just worked. I am wondering if that could be the source to all my problems....I bet its leaking like crazy. I haven't checked the spring on that thing in years.....
The rain has finally stopped here, and its supposed to get hot....31C on Saturday....so hopefully I can check some more things out......

MDB

[BlackStealth]

Pressure testing results: Major leak found, passenger side intercooler clamp somehow got loose and moved the rubber pipe about 1.5" from normal position.

It's too dark to complete my task, but tomorrow I'll test drive the car again with the fix

[BlackStealth]

It's fixed and drives 100% smoothly now, and is incredible fast with all that boost.

FYI, I did try to use a 2 gallon compressor earlier but the air pressure would be gone in seconds -- not enough time for me to locate the leak. Purchased a 19 gallon compressor and it gave me ample time to locate this massive leak.

[Mad Dog Bodine]

Originally Posted by BlackStealth

It's fixed and drives 100% smoothly now, and is incredible fast with all that boost.

FYI, I did try to use a 2 gallon compressor earlier but the air pressure would be gone in seconds -- not enough time for me to locate the leak. Purchased a 19 gallon compressor and it gave me ample time to locate this massive leak.

Fantastic!! Very happy and excited for you that your car is fixed. I need to pressure test, once my tester shows up. Until then....I will just try make a visual inspection on everything to make sure its not something very obvious.

Its stopped raining yesterday, so I will be able to do some work on it this weekend. Congrats once again for getting her fixed up!

MDB

[BlackStealth]

Originally Posted by Mad Dog Bodine

.. last year, had my clutch replaced(dealership)....

The dealership may have disconnected the passenger side intercooler hoses when they serviced the transmission and probably didn't tight it up enough. Fortunately it's not too difficult to fix, just remove some plastic shielding out of the way, jack the car up a bit, and you should be able to reach both.

[simace]

FWIW, I found out my problem. Old spark plugs. I hadn't changed them for about 6 months.

Changed them (used stock plugs) with a gap of .32 and no more studdering. Car moves well. One thing tho that remains for me is the slow to accellerate problem. Anyone familiar with this demon?

Eddie

[JgGravy]

I'm having similar issues, plugs, with varying gap, doesn't fix my problem. My fuel pump ended up going out on me, and didn't change anything when i replaced it. I'll re-do a boost leak test and check a few other things, knock sensor is suspect for mine, reading a little high when i get the miss.

[Mad Dog Bodine]

I have pressure tested to 20lbs, and there are no apparent leaks. I have re-gapped my NGK Coppers down to .030, no change. The plugs are almost over a year old, but have less than 10,000KM (6,000M) on them. Maybe that is it, but if this is the case I am going back to platnums, cause I don't mind replace plugs every two or three years, but every year is a bit silly. And I had plats in before I ran th coppers....and had zero problems.
I will be replacing them next year after I get the car back on the road from her upcoming winter sleep. I have a new fuel filter I haven't replaced yet, hoping to do that. I will also over the winter be buying a Supra pump with hotwire, since I will need the extra fuel soon.
When I log I get absoutely no knock, but when I hit boost and start to accel, my O2 voltages read dead lean. Like I am talking .05 etc. I can run WG boost fine, no stuttering it pulls strong. Just absolutely anything over WG and it stutters and hesitates.

MDB

[BlackStealth]

Sounds more and more like a clogged fuel filter.