a problem after another

[roneyyem]

well just got the car back an its still slow but the idling is a lot better, he replaced my mas with a N/A MAS, im like uhhh thats not gonna work, but its been runnin pretty good. he said it might be my boost silenoid but iono i told him ill bring my turbonetics MBC an put it on an see whats up. for now the car is drive-able to work but not to have fun with.

[etecnifibre]

Originally Posted by roneyyem

well just got the car back an its still slow but the idling is a lot better, he replaced my mas with a N/A MAS, im like uhhh thats not gonna work, but its been runnin pretty good. he said it might be my boost silenoid but iono i told him ill bring my turbonetics MBC an put it on an see whats up. for now the car is drive-able to work but not to have fun with.

The same mass air flow sensors were used on the TT and N/A, Diamantes, Monteros, some Galants, and 2nd Gen DSMs. It'll do fine.

[roneyyem]

wait you saying the mas from a tt and an n/a is the same? how is that, well anyways my old one was suckin in too much air an i had to get rid of it, now the n/a one is barely suckin in, its like im runnin wastegate boost (7psi), im not trying to beat on it since i change my diff oil an found a lot of metal shavings and my cars been backlashing, wonder how much the garage will charge me to adjust the backlash? i was gonna buy a new/used diff an just replace it since that might be cheaper then having the garage adjust the backlash

[etecnifibre]

I'd say to check your carrier bearings and motor mounts before you worry about the rear diff.

[Hannibalzero]

Originally Posted by roneyyem

wait you saying the mas from a tt and an n/a is the same?

NA and TT are the same. If you are getting different readings, its probably because your TT MAS was fubar, and you have vacuum leaks preventing you from building above 6-9 psi. That, or you don't have the wastegate solenoid or boost controller hooked up.

[roneyyem]

Originally Posted by etecnifibre

I'd say to check your carrier bearings and motor mounts before you worry about the rear diff.

motor mounts are in poor condition not gone an not in good condition an carrier bearings are pretty bad, im pretty sure my diff is goin since i had just changed the oil for it an there was a good amount of metal shavings on the magnet nut, so now im in search for a new/used diff for 200 shipped at most, found one on ebay for 210 shipped but i havent talked to the guy an i also need to know if the spec is good.

oh yea my damn check engine light is back on, time to see whats else is wrong

[etecnifibre]

I'd say whatever problem you are having in your rear diff was caused by bad motor mounts and carrier bearings. I'd replace them before worrying about the diff, maybe someone else will disagree, however.

[roneyyem]

do you think the solid mounts on ebay are good? theres no core charge, direct swap, cant seem to find it anymore but itll eventually come back on. as for the carrier bearings ill just do the cheap way by using the zip tie and worry about it later as i dont think thats really important now

[lawdogg]

I think Maximal solids aren't expensive, and have been proven many times to be a quality product.

[roneyyem]

yea after i worte the post i went an checked them out, i guess ill get them, vibration shouldnt be anything to me since mine is already vibrating, so i guess carrier bearings would be a stock replacement right?