powder coating and cleaning! - 3000GT/Stealth International Message Center

yetterben · 08-15-2008, 12:07 PM

While i am waiting for my new engine i want to clean house and powder coat.

I suppose i should take off all the sensors on parts i want to clean powder coat huh.

I want to do the valve cover intake thermo housings etc etc.

Give me some good cleaning tips and hints here people!

Bob · 08-15-2008, 12:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by yetterben

While i am waiting for my new engine i want to clean house and powder coat.

I suppose i should take off all the sensors on parts i want to clean powder coat huh.

I want to do the valve cover intake thermo housings etc etc.

Give me some good cleaning tips and hints here people!

Simple Green and elbow grease!! That's about all I can recommend. Definitely remove any sensors from parts to be power coated.

yetterben · 08-15-2008, 12:16 PM

Where can you get all the gaskets for the intake shit i dont seem to see them on 3sx or other places!

Sean3S · 08-15-2008, 12:18 PM

A.... dealership? Try MITSUPARTSDIRECT.COM - call the #.

Colt45_GTO · 08-15-2008, 12:20 PM

if there is original paint on any of the parts use POR-Strip paint remover, as said remove all switches senders and sensors block and open holes with masking tape prior to coating use degreaser to clean the parts thoroughly.

3srunner · 08-15-2008, 12:44 PM

Start off by stripping/sanding

- I use a sand blaster to remove any previous paint/rust, but previously used aircraft stripper. It's messy, but usually works well.

- The nice thing about powder coating is that parts don't have to be sanded extremely smooth, however they do have to be very clean and you'll want to smooth out any major imperfections/ridges that may be present.

Prepping

- This actually depends a lot on what kinda metal you'll be powder coating. Example: Cast aluminum will have voids that retain a lot of oil and in my experience needs to be preheated for nearly 30min (even after sandblasting) to get good results. I usually preheat about 50-100 degrees warmer than the heat I'll use to cure the powder.

- I also spray with prep no matter what type of metal I use.

Applying powder

- Probably one of the easiest steps, the only tip I have is start coating the tight spots, corners, and hard to reach spots FIRST, this will help you get an even coat. You also want to have a fairly heavy coat to avoid orange peel.

Clear

- I don't see a lot of people applying clear coats with powder, but in my opinion it's usually worth it, especially with certain powders. Each powder will have its own characteristics, so one with weak UV strength would be a very good candidate for a clear coat. And as tough as powder's are they aren't impossible to scratch and look pretty bad when you do damage them. Applying a clear will keep them looking good for even longer.

Hope this helps some,
Shawn...

Colt45_GTO · 08-15-2008, 12:48 PM

good advice but the sand blasting part... the sand used gets in tight spaces so be sure ALL parts blasted are thoroughly cleaned before adding them back to the engine especially the valve covers and plenum (upper and lower). you don't want blast sand in your engine at all.

3srunner · 08-15-2008, 12:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Colt45_GTO

good advice but the sand blasting part... the sand used gets in tight spaces so be sure ALL parts blasted are thoroughly cleaned before adding them back to the engine especially the valve covers and plenum (upper and lower). you don't want blast sand in your engine at all.

Very true!

08-15-2008, 12:07 PM	#1 (permalink)
yetterben Forum Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Eau claire Wi Drives: 91 dohc N/A power Trader Rating: (0)	powder coating and cleaning! While i am waiting for my new engine i want to clean house and powder coat. I suppose i should take off all the sensors on parts i want to clean powder coat huh. I want to do the valve cover intake thermo housings etc etc. Give me some good cleaning tips and hints here people!

08-15-2008, 12:16 PM	#3 (permalink)
yetterben Forum Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Eau claire Wi Drives: 91 dohc N/A power Trader Rating: (0)	Re: powder coating and cleaning! Where can you get all the gaskets for the intake shit i dont seem to see them on 3sx or other places!

08-15-2008, 12:18 PM	#4 (permalink)
Sean3S Verified Asian Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Sugar Land, TX Drives: 94 TT Trader Rating: (36)	Re: powder coating and cleaning! A.... dealership? Try MITSUPARTSDIRECT.COM - call the #. __________________ '94 RT/TT 13T's \| PTE FMIC - PPE Pipes \| 560's \| Supra FP w/ 8ga Hotwire \| MAF-T 1.37 & LT1 Blow-Through \| E-Manage Blue w/ Boomslang Harness \| HKS DLI \| Stillen Downpipe \| Gutted Rear Pre-cat \| Borla Catback \| Tial BOV \| AEM FPR & Rob Beck Adapter \| DejonTool Intake Pipes \| PWR Radiator w/ IPS Pipes \| FAL Fans \| MP Motor Mounts \| 99 Lash Adjusters \| Clevite 77 Rod & Main Bearings \| Leatherseats.com Dk. Graphite w/ Red Center Seats \| Sparco Flash 5 Black w/ Red Alcantara \| Spec Stg. 2 Clutch & 3SX Clutch Line \| 3SX Crank Pulley \| Bob's SS Shifter & All Solid Bushings \| NGK Coppers & MSD Wires \| eK2 EGR Blockoffs \| eK2 Fuel Line Loop \| PST 1 Pc. CFDS \| Volk LE37T \| Falken FK452 \| Megan Racing Coilovers \| Adj. Rear Control Arms \| Slotted Rotors w/ Hawk HPS Pads \| GReddy Profec B \| AEM UEGO WB \| GReddy PWH Boost, EGT, GReddy OP, FP, Temp \| Hybrid Logger \| McColluch 5300K HIDs \| Shaved '99 Bumper & Turns \| PRM Style Hood 295.7 AWHP / 310.3 TQ @ 1 Bar - BPU @ TX04 Collecting Dust - Setrab Oil Cooler, Snow Stage 2 Meth, Brake Lines Some Day - ABS Delete, Ducting WTB - ek2 Harness Cover (above the fuel rails)

08-15-2008, 12:44 PM	#6 (permalink)
3srunner Forum Member Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Knox, Indiana Drives: 92' Turbo Stealth Trader Rating: (0)	Re: powder coating and cleaning! Start off by stripping/sanding - I use a sand blaster to remove any previous paint/rust, but previously used aircraft stripper. It's messy, but usually works well. - The nice thing about powder coating is that parts don't have to be sanded extremely smooth, however they do have to be very clean and you'll want to smooth out any major imperfections/ridges that may be present. Prepping - This actually depends a lot on what kinda metal you'll be powder coating. Example: Cast aluminum will have voids that retain a lot of oil and in my experience needs to be preheated for nearly 30min (even after sandblasting) to get good results. I usually preheat about 50-100 degrees warmer than the heat I'll use to cure the powder. - I also spray with prep no matter what type of metal I use. Applying powder - Probably one of the easiest steps, the only tip I have is start coating the tight spots, corners, and hard to reach spots FIRST, this will help you get an even coat. You also want to have a fairly heavy coat to avoid orange peel. Clear - I don't see a lot of people applying clear coats with powder, but in my opinion it's usually worth it, especially with certain powders. Each powder will have its own characteristics, so one with weak UV strength would be a very good candidate for a clear coat. And as tough as powder's are they aren't impossible to scratch and look pretty bad when you do damage them. Applying a clear will keep them looking good for even longer. Hope this helps some, Shawn... __________________ Last edited by 3srunner : 08-15-2008 at 12:54 PM.

08-15-2008, 12:48 PM	#7 (permalink)
Colt45_GTO GTONW is good to go Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: manchester uk Drives: Black '91 TT Trader Rating: (0)	Re: powder coating and cleaning! good advice but the sand blasting part... the sand used gets in tight spaces so be sure ALL parts blasted are thoroughly cleaned before adding them back to the engine especially the valve covers and plenum (upper and lower). you don't want blast sand in your engine at all.

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