Pics of full ABS delete: Custom lines and Wilwood prop valve in center console

[Derek3000rm]

My ABS pump went out the other day and I was thinking about getting a new one. This looks like an even better idea. Can this all be done for under $100?

[Tasker21]

Im getting confused. Everyone shows the prop valve being used on the back brakes and someone else just said the front brakes. Which one is it and how exactly does this prop valve function?

Terry

[Struggly]

Originally Posted by Tasker21

Im getting confused. Everyone shows the prop valve being used on the back brakes and someone else just said the front brakes. Which one is it and how exactly does this prop valve function?

Terry

The simple answer is that a proportioning valve is a pressure reducer. Since we want less pressure going to the rears than the fronts--and since we never want to reduce pressure going to the fronts--we use a prop valve (or valves, depending on your routing) for the rear lines.

This is a link to a white paper on brake proportioning on Stoptech's website: http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...g_valves.shtml. It'll get you up to speed on valve design, knee point, and help you to understand why one would use a proportioning valve in one place but not another.

Clint

[Tasker21]

Thanks for the info

[jonfish490]

nvm idiot cant read

[JonVr4]

quick question why not just run a NA non abs valve in the stock location on the fire wall and the new front lines?

[My92Stealth]

You can, and thats what I did. Except I just picked up some lengths of brake line and bent up my own.
Advantage with struggly's method is it's more performance oriented.

[TiberiusTribun]

Does anyone know of a way to get brake proportion adjustment and retain the ABS? I'd like to get the rear end a little more lively when braking into a turn on the track but not loose the ABS when traveling autobahn speeds.

[ulrich]

I love the work you did - however, why did you choose copper tubing?

It is an inherently bad and possibly dangerous choice for something like this..
The flares are known to suddenly fail without any warnings and thus make copper tubing a bad choice for brake lines.

[Struggly]

Originally Posted by ulrich

I love the work you did - however, why did you choose copper tubing?

It is an inherently bad and possibly dangerous choice for something like this..
The flares are known to suddenly fail without any warnings and thus make copper tubing a bad choice for brake lines.

I think I explained a little bit about it in my opening post, but here's a little more detail:

It is not pure copper tubing, nor is it a coated copper. It is a copper-nickel-iron alloy that is much more resistant to corrosion and weakening than steel and also much easier to work with. It's also DOT approved.

This tubing (Cunifer tubing) is widely used for brake lines and is particularly popular in the UK. I've seen it on several local SCCA club racers too. It is also the OEM brake tubing for several manufacturers. If you google "Cunifer brake line" you'll pull up many threads from what I guess I'd call reputable forums (grassrootsmotorsports.com, aflabb.com, etc.).

A bit of an old article, but still a good read: Copper.org: Applications: Automotive - Hydraulic Brake Tube

Originally Posted by article

"Volvo began the use of 90-10 copper-nickel ("Cunifer Alloy") tube in their 1976 model vehicles and have been using it since.... Audi began using this material in 1990. The other European cars using this material are Porsche and Aston Martin."

Clint