Pics of full ABS delete: Custom lines and Wilwood prop valve in center console
Here's my car, with custom lines and a Wilwood proportioning valve in the center console.
Below are small versions of 3 of many pictures. Go to the links below for full-size. I apologize in advance for the awkwardness and crappiness of some of the photos. There isn't exactly a lot of room to manipulate a camera in a lot of these places.
The new lines coming off the master cylinder (if you look down on the strut tower you can see the tee and the lines to the front left and right brake lines).
The Wilwood knob-style valve mounted where the cigarette lighter used to be.
The tee splitting the line originating at the prop valve and coming through the floorpan and along the driveshaft tunnel. These lead to the rear calipers.
The Pansy Patrol 1995 3000GT VR-4 but real niggaz don't give a fuck: V1, comprehensive denastificizzle, vishizzous accessory biznelt mod, K&N, Greddy Profec B S-P-to-tha-izzec II, S-AFC, Walbro 341, DSM 450s, n AEM UEGO; battery relocizzle K-R-to-tha-izzank Vents, EK2MFG fizzle rizzle loop n plenum spaca, lethal_vr4 manual gang bangin' rizzay, SKVR4 AWS delete, polyurethane motor mounts, adjustable control arms, SS brakes lines, n EGR blockoffs; Custom brakes lines wit cockpit-mounted adjustable proportion'n valve, 332mm Stoptechs, Carbotech Brotha Plus/Porterfield Rizzle ATE Pusha Blue, OZ Gang Bangin' F1 Plus 17x9.5 +36mm, Yokohama AVS ES100 275/40/17, Tein Fizzle w/EDFC n SCE Casta/Camba Plates, SCE oilpan, DSM sidemounts, DN Precat Eliminizzles 13G/9B combo (9psi springs), J-spec final drive, RPS flyhweel n Spec II clutch, IPO propane, ATR downpipe, tizzest pipe, n Single Shot
1994 Mazda Protege DX: 260K miles, DOHC 1.8L swap, rear disc brake conversion, poorly-designed header, some cheap-ass suspension upgrades, Carbotech XP8/AX6, 15x7 +30 Kazera KZ-M w/ Avon Tech Ra slicks, other crap here and there (like an air filter that doesn't have 1/4 of a million miles), arguably the fastest piece of shit in New England and no one can do anything about it
Re: Pics of full ABS delete: Custom lines and Wilwood prop valve in center console
Sweet! Thank you for doing this!
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Re: Pics of full ABS delete: Custom lines and Wilwood prop valve in center console
Quote:
Originally Posted by 3KGTTusch
What are the advantages of removing your abs?
You won't be forced to slam into the car in front of you when you try to apply the brakes on wet pavement and the ABS kicks in - causing your brakes to fail.
The ABS system on these cars is terrible. It's nearly caused me to wreck three times.
Re: Pics of full ABS delete: Custom lines and Wilwood prop valve in center console
Quote:
Originally Posted by 3KGTTusch
What are the advantages of removing your abs?
You can actually stop on slick surface. I diffentely agree with the other posts the abs on these cars suck from the factory. I've had mine disabled pretty much since I got the car.
Re: Pics of full ABS delete: Custom lines and Wilwood prop valve in center console
Thanks for the compliments.
I thought I'd post up a few more details about the delete. The lines are 90/10 copper nickel alloy, not stainless steel. (Most of you can probably tell that from the color, but anyway.... ) They were not pre-bent of course, nor were they pre-flared; the copper/nickel line comes in 30 foot rolls. The line is very soft and can be bent by hand. I figured I'd use a spring bender to prevent kinking, but in the end I didn't use any bending tools.The line is forgiving enough that it actually tolerated some straightening and re-bending, and it likes extreme bend angles just fine, as you can see.
To make the lines, I used thick solder to make a line "template" (so to speak), then took it off the car and straightened it to get a length measurement. Then, after flaring a copper/nickel line of the proper length, I simply shoved it into place. I was able to do all my bending with the line in the car, which would have been impossible with conventional line.
A normal flaring tool will not work. For one, they don't make double flares. And, for another, the tees I used require bubble flares, which you can't accurately make with a normal flaring tool even if you're inventive. I used a bench mounted tool that clamps the line between two blocks and then presses a flaring die against the line end. It worked exceptionally well; all of the flares on those lines were made on the first try and none of them leaks after over 2000 miles of driving.
Brake pedal feel has definitely improved, which confirms my long-standing suspicion that the shittiness of the stock ABS contributed heavily to the poor pedal feel of the 3/S.
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Pics of full ABS delete: Custom lines and Wilwood prop valve in center console
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) They were not pre-bent of course, nor were they pre-flared; the copper/nickel line comes in 30 foot rolls. The line is very soft and can be bent by hand. I figured I'd use a spring bender to prevent kinking, but in the end I didn't use any bending tools.The line is forgiving enough that it actually tolerated some straightening and re-bending, and it likes extreme bend angles just fine, as you can see. 
