Oil pan leak: WTF am I doing wrong? - Page 5 - 3000GT/Stealth International Message Center

cbehnken · 09-22-2008, 09:01 AM

i like the copper RTV. Make sure you are using PLENTY. A lot of people on here say to use a tiny bead to make sure none falls in the pan, but that never works for me. I put a good thick bead on it, use most of a tube for the pan.

cjbyron · 09-22-2008, 09:22 AM

In a proper laid out application you do not need very much sealant at all. If a pan leaks after proper application of sealant then you have other problems - mainly warped pan or bolt hole crush.

And yes, 2G's do not use a gasket on the oil pan.

In reading your thread - you've not even verified that it is the pan leaking. Instead of spinning your wheels even more than you have I'd suggest locating the leak specifically as the 1st priority in fixing the problem. It is not the sealant that is your problem IMO.

Easiest way is to use some UV dye (most parts stores will have it). It will track it down quickly (and pointedly) and then you can fix where it is leaking. Put it in, start it up, shut it off and get under there with UV light and you'll then find the leak point.

A common leak point on the pans is the turbo oil return line. The bolt holes go all the way through the pan and therefore sealing them is important in the process.

andyvr4 · 09-22-2008, 10:00 AM

The oil pan gaskets probably don't fit right because they really aren't suppose to be on there. You're just suppose to use RTV like what you did, so you should be fine.

alex10superman · 09-22-2008, 02:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cbehnken

i like the copper RTV. Make sure you are using PLENTY. A lot of people on here say to use a tiny bead to make sure none falls in the pan, but that never works for me. I put a good thick bead on it, use most of a tube for the pan.

Oh trust me, i used plenty. Usually the whole tube.

Quote:

Originally Posted by cjbyron

In a proper laid out application you do not need very much sealant at all. If a pan leaks after proper application of sealant then you have other problems - mainly warped pan or bolt hole crush.

And yes, 2G's do not use a gasket on the oil pan.

In reading your thread - you've not even verified that it is the pan leaking. Instead of spinning your wheels even more than you have I'd suggest locating the leak specifically as the 1st priority in fixing the problem. It is not the sealant that is your problem IMO.

Easiest way is to use some UV dye (most parts stores will have it). It will track it down quickly (and pointedly) and then you can fix where it is leaking. Put it in, start it up, shut it off and get under there with UV light and you'll then find the leak point.

A common leak point on the pans is the turbo oil return line. The bolt holes go all the way through the pan and therefore sealing them is important in the process.

I thought I had verified it...
Well, your partially correct that it might not be coming from the pan and that I am not "SURE". But, I have felt around as high as I can go and around the entire area where it is leaking and it only seems to be coming from the dip in the pan on the tranny side. But, as I am sure you know, it is hard to see up in there with the tranny and the xfer case being in the way. 100% it is not coming from return lines.... its not even coming from that area.
Thanks, for the input.

Boostaddict · 09-22-2008, 08:48 PM

Sweet jesus. All these posts and only a couple people mention the right things to try

First, verify the pan is perfectly flat. Because the SCE pan has been welded there is a chance its slightly warped (its sheet metal so it can move). If its slightly warped... hit the sealing flange with a hammer on a flat surface until its golden.

Second... if you don't plan on taking the pan off every week (or month), use the right stuf (TRS). Even if the pan is a potato chip it will seal and not leak if all the bolts are torqued down. Working time is a little less with TRS than RTV so you need to work quick. If it still leaks, then the leak is coming from elsewhere (oil returns, front/rear main, oil filter housing/oil pump, etc).

W.

alex10superman · 09-22-2008, 09:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boostaddict

Sweet jesus. All these posts and only a couple people mention the right things to try

First, verify the pan is perfectly flat. Because the SCE pan has been welded there is a chance its slightly warped (its sheet metal so it can move). If its slightly warped... hit the sealing flange with a hammer on a flat surface until its golden.

Second... if you don't plan on taking the pan off every week (or month), use the right stuf (TRS). Even if the pan is a potato chip it will seal and not leak if all the bolts are torqued down. Working time is a little less with TRS than RTV so you need to work quick. If it still leaks, then the leak is coming from elsewhere (oil returns, front/rear main, oil filter housing/oil pump, etc).

W.

LOL, working quick won't be a problem... I've got it down pat by now. Have you ever had any issues with these pans being warped? I'll double check again next time but I'm pretty sure the pan is flat. I'm definitely using "the right stuff" next time.

Boostaddict · 09-23-2008, 05:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by alex10superman

LOL, working quick won't be a problem... I've got it down pat by now. Have you ever had any issues with these pans being warped? I'll double check again next time but I'm pretty sure the pan is flat. I'm definitely using "the right stuff" next time.

I have heard of a couple cases where the pan wasn't perfectly flat. Luckily its really easy to straighten the pan back out.

DoctorDex · 09-23-2008, 06:37 AM

Make sure you don't have bolt hole crush. If so, try banging the bolt holes out with a punch and a hammer so they are slightly raised (coming out of the pan towards you). Be careful not to bend the flat part of the pan while you are doing this.

Boostaddict · 09-23-2008, 06:51 AM

Also make sure you clean as much of the old rtv out of the bolt holes as possible. After so many times of pushing rtv into the holes the bolts won't torque properly...

09-22-2008, 09:01 AM	#41 (permalink)
cbehnken Forest Gump Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Cape Girardeau Mo Drives: 1992 Stealth TT Trader Rating: (45)	Re: Oil pan leak: WTF am I doing wrong? i like the copper RTV. Make sure you are using PLENTY. A lot of people on here say to use a tiny bead to make sure none falls in the pan, but that never works for me. I put a good thick bead on it, use most of a tube for the pan. __________________ Power: DSM 13G/DR650 Combo, EVO 560cc injectors, SAFC I, K&N, Ebay Downpipe, ATR Dual Catback, no cats, DN Y-Pipe, HKS SSQV, HKS EVC 5 at 14.5PSI, Walbro 255 with AN Bulkhead 8.07 @ 85.55 1/8th mile 1.84 60FT Suspension: KYB GR-2 - Tein S-Techs, Crossdrilled/slotted rotors, AWS Delete Drivetrain: RPS Street Max, M.W. 300m O/S, Seattle F&R Poly Mounts Etc: Roller Bearing Short Shifter Smokinvr-4 Corner box, 10" Rockford Fosgate Punch sub, Eclipse Headunit Leatherseats.com Charcoal/Dove Grey Interior, 99 front end/lights/wing/sideskirts/doorcaps Maintenance New VSS, all 60K stuff, new 1st,2nd, 3rd syncro, trans seals, oil pump, rod and main bearings. Mobile 1 10w40, Redline MTL in trans, 85w90 Coastal GL5 in transfer case and rear

09-22-2008, 09:22 AM	#42 (permalink)
cjbyron Forum user Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Seattle, WA Drives: 1995 VR4 -Orig.Owner Trader Rating: (1)	Re: Oil pan leak: WTF am I doing wrong? In a proper laid out application you do not need very much sealant at all. If a pan leaks after proper application of sealant then you have other problems - mainly warped pan or bolt hole crush. And yes, 2G's do not use a gasket on the oil pan. In reading your thread - you've not even verified that it is the pan leaking. Instead of spinning your wheels even more than you have I'd suggest locating the leak specifically as the 1st priority in fixing the problem. It is not the sealant that is your problem IMO. Easiest way is to use some UV dye (most parts stores will have it). It will track it down quickly (and pointedly) and then you can fix where it is leaking. Put it in, start it up, shut it off and get under there with UV light and you'll then find the leak point. A common leak point on the pans is the turbo oil return line. The bolt holes go all the way through the pan and therefore sealing them is important in the process. __________________ 1995 VR4 - Danube Pearl Blue. 15g Turbos,550cc Inj,DNP Turbopipes,DSM Intercoolers,AEM EMS,AEM dual WBO2,3.5Bar MAP,Dejon Intake,dual K&N air filters,HKS Stainless Exhaust,Stillen DP,HKS SSQV BOV,Koyo radiator,Flexalite radiator fans,HKS CTE Grounding,Accel HiPerf Plug Wires,Optima Battery,Denso Fuel Pump,AEM FPR,Greddy Catch Can,HKS Twin Power Ign Amp,Spec II+ Clutch,Spec AL Flywheel,Tein FLEX Suspension,Tein EDFC Controller,3sx Camber Control Arms,Power Slot Rotors,HPS Brake Pads,SS Brake Lines,Trust strut bars,PIAA 1000XT Drvg Lights,HKS IC sprayer,Setrab Oil Cooler-FM. http://cjbyron.com/3000gtphoto1eng.htm INTERIOR/ELECTRONICS: 3 gauge A-Pillar pod,Custom center console,polished VR4 Door Sills,SS Short Shifter,HKS shift knob,MOMO Racing Pedals,MOMO E-Brake,DEFI HUD,Custom EBC pod,HKS Turbo Timer,Active Radar Jammer,Blitz DSBC i-Color,AEM Serial Guages,HKS Fan Controllerw/ IC controller,HKS Inj Pulse Monitor, Custom Omori Gauges-Water Temp,Oil Press,Boost,Volts,Oil Temp,EGT,Aquamist DDS3 alc/wtr inj controller,Intercooler temp display, Wireless tire pressure and temp in-cab system. STEREO:Kenwood DDX-6039 TouchScreen MONITOR,Kenwood "KEG"MP3 Hard Drive-40GB,Kenwood KNA-G510 GPS & Navigation System,MTX 8000 10" subwoofers 2) + custom enclosure,MTX 6532 Speakers,MTX 900W 4 channel Amplifier,MTX Subwoofer Amplifier 450W,MTX CROSSOVER RT-X02A,X-Static BatCap 400 amps,Infinity Kappa Speakers 60.5 door and tweeters,Infinity Kappa Speakers 63.5 three way,DynaMat installed throughout. http://cjbyron.com/3000gtphoto1i.htm

09-22-2008, 08:48 PM	#45 (permalink)
Boostaddict Azkicker Join Date: May 2002 Location: Around Detroit, MI Drives: First e16g 3/S Trader Rating: (47)	Re: Oil pan leak: WTF am I doing wrong? Sweet jesus. All these posts and only a couple people mention the right things to try First, verify the pan is perfectly flat. Because the SCE pan has been welded there is a chance its slightly warped (its sheet metal so it can move). If its slightly warped... hit the sealing flange with a hammer on a flat surface until its golden. Second... if you don't plan on taking the pan off every week (or month), use the right stuf (TRS). Even if the pan is a potato chip it will seal and not leak if all the bolts are torqued down. Working time is a little less with TRS than RTV so you need to work quick. If it still leaks, then the leak is coming from elsewhere (oil returns, front/rear main, oil filter housing/oil pump, etc). W. __________________ 1993 3000GT-VR4: AEM EMS, etc 663 awhp, 607 tq (retired tdo5-e16g's) 10.835@132.69 -26psi Now alive and kicking. Preparing to eat small children in '09 Badass Oil Pump Gears Available Now

09-23-2008, 06:37 AM	#48 (permalink)
DoctorDex Forum Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Edmonton, AB Drives: '91 VR4 - RIP Trader Rating: (15)	Re: Oil pan leak: WTF am I doing wrong? Make sure you don't have bolt hole crush. If so, try banging the bolt holes out with a punch and a hammer so they are slightly raised (coming out of the pan towards you). Be careful not to bend the flat part of the pan while you are doing this. __________________ '91 VR4 - Rebuild in progress: Mods TBA.

09-23-2008, 06:51 AM	#49 (permalink)
Boostaddict Azkicker Join Date: May 2002 Location: Around Detroit, MI Drives: First e16g 3/S Trader Rating: (47)	Re: Oil pan leak: WTF am I doing wrong? Also make sure you clean as much of the old rtv out of the bolt holes as possible. After so many times of pushing rtv into the holes the bolts won't torque properly...

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