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#1 (permalink) |
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I love my VR-4!!!
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Alright guys, I need some help figuring out why I keep getting a leak. I replaced my oil pan with a SCE pan about 4 weeks ago. Once I finished it all up and turned the car on I inspected for leaks and there were none. I let the car get up to operating temperature revved it just a little, still no leaks. I shut the car off and when I get back about 2 minutes later there is a puddle under the car. The leak was coming from the dip in the pan on the passenger side where the tranny meats the engine and was dripping down my transfer case (yes it for sure engine oil and not the t-case leaking).
So, I tore it all down again and resealed the pan. This time I even let the RTV dry for a whole week (not by choice, just didn’t have time) but there was still a leak, but only after I shut the car off, never while it was running. So I checked to see if it was just running down from higher up but it was not. It was coming right out from the lowest point of that dip in the pan. This past weekend I tore it down again (I'm a pro at taking all that stuff out by now). This time it all seemed fine but I still have a very very tiny leak after the car shuts off. I'll get about two to three drops on the floor and that’s it. Here is the stuff I used: http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...500_AA280_.jpg Actually the first time I used RTV black but the same brand. I cleaned the pan and the block of old gasket as well as I could. I let it dry for a least a day each time. I am not sure where the leak is coming from this time as I have not had a chance to crawl under the car again but by the looks of it, it is coming from he same place. I want to know why it only happens after the car is shut off? And of course any help on figuring out what I'm doing wrong is appreciated!! |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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I would say the leak is because it is expanding when it warms up and then when it contracts from cooling the RTV isn't sealing well enough to contract with it... I could be wrong because it seems like RTV should be able to contract, but it's a theory.
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1992 Fiji Blue VR-4
Working on getting it going for now! ![]() Past Cars: 2003 Cobra (475 rwhp) 1999 BMW M3 1998 BMW 328is 1988 BMW 325xi |
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#3 (permalink) | |
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I love my VR-4!!!
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Oh, and some more info for everyone: I have done this before on a 3g eclipse (also a 6g72). I used RTV Blue on that and it sealed perfectly the first time. This is another reason that I am stumped! Last edited by alex10superman : 07-21-2008 at 09:57 AM. |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Verified Seller
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Use the "Right Stuff" and you won't have any issus ever again.
http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...sket_Maker.htm ![]()
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----------------[2007 Ride of the Year
![]() "Stroke" her I did. Retired - TD04 WRX19t's = 513awhp @ 18psi on PUMP ![]() |
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#5 (permalink) | |
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I love my VR-4!!!
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#6 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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I've replaced oil pans, transmission pans, and all kinds of other things and used black rtv. One thing we never did was let it sit that long. Usually it sits long enough to get a little settled, then the pan goes on, so it squishes and conforms to the correct shape. Then the car sits for a while to let it all cure. I've never had a problem with a leak using this method
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![]() 1991 RT/TT Pearl White/Porn Red 15g's + supporting, other mods. 92 Stealth Base DD. |
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#7 (permalink) | |
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I love my VR-4!!!
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#9 (permalink) |
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Engineering Student
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Are you absolutely, completely sure that the leak is coming from the pan and not your rear main seal which is just above the little dip on the passenger's side?
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![]() NG06 - DOHC NA - ATX --- 16.6 --- 85 MPH NG07 - DOHC NA - MTX --- 15.7 --- 89 MPH 7.78 sec 0-60 3,044 lbs w/out driver1992 3000GT 1991 Stealth |
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