Bought this oil pump off a guy who told me it was a high output or high volume oil pump, but after a little searching it seems no one even makes one yet. So what the hell did I buy? Stock oil pump, knockoff? I cant identify any part numbers on the outside. I looked into the intake tube/strainer port and can see a black coating on the gears. Don't know if it means anything.
Took a bunch of pics, can anyone help?
Modifications as of 11/12/13:
3.01L, 0.020" pistons, forged crank, NA block, 13T turbos, K&N intake, CX Racing pre turbo pipes, SS Y-pipe, CX Racing oil cooler (mounted in front), SS oil cooler lines, SS oil feed lines, DNP precat deletes, ESP downpipe, test pipe, DSM SMICs, Ninja Performance boost controller, vacuum reduction, RPS Max Street, drilled/slotted rotors, Depo Racing gauges, custom leather seats, and MMCdroid OBDI-Bluetooth datalogging adapter. Everything built and done by me. As always, more to come soon.
Currently on the shelf: KYB GR-2 struts, Tein S-Tech lowering springs, ARC-2, 450cc injectors.
Ya that was the same thing I found out too. The guy said it was from a well known Japan manufacturer, like thats a big help. He didn't know the exact brand. What are the differences that make OEM better then the aftermarkets? I am assuming the way gears are cut and coating they have done to them. I just don't wanna install in a brand new engine and have it crap out on me. Id rather spend another 200 bucks and be sure of what I have. Hopefully someone can shed some light on this.
Go OEM. The oil pump is just about the most important thing when rebuilding and the absolute last thing one should skimp out on. Some people get billet oil pump gears (around $450 I think) but they are pushing ginormous amounts of power. Even without the billet gears, the stock pump is unbeatable. I wouldn't want to risk a freshly rebuilt engine by putting in a pump that hasn't been proven over and over, which is why everyone is advised to go OEM.
Ya I hear ya, and from all the info I have read have a different view on oil pumps that i didn't have when I bought this. It cost me 200 so I wasn't trying to cheap out, I was told it was a more flow not higher pressure oil pump so I went with it. I would like to use it, just wish there was a way to tell when it is I have. If I open it up will it help to determine the brand easier? I all ready tried but those Philips screws are on there! Im going to have to use my impact screw driver to break loose. There is no gasket between that cover is there? It doesn't look like there is but just want to make sure before I mess with it.
No there is no gasket. Make sure you get the right bit otherwise you'll strip the screw heads. I suppose you can check the specs with the service manual and see how it compares. Also, it might be a $60 eBay oil pump he bought to try and turn for a profit, which could be why he "didn't know" what brand the supposed high volume pump was. Always a possibility I guess.
Ya I thought the same thing, but it was from a company up here that sells long blocks locally and the guy who sold it to me said he could get other parts i needed or that they recommended to replace new when installing a new engine. Like water pump, oil pump, 3mm lifters etc and said he could save me shipping and sell for what I would just pay for the parts. Plus they had this so called "high flow" pump that they recommend to their customers that buy TT engines from them because it helps out with the extra volume a TT uses over a NA. It made sense and I went with it. The company offers a one year free replacement and 2 year if you have a "certified mechanic" install. So my thinking was that they wouldn't sell a crappy oil pump if they had to honor warranty's.
So if one were to compare a stock pump to the specs mitsu calls out for and then compare it to the readings off an cheap eBay piece of crap there would be a noticeable difference that would point to poor machining? So in theory if mine had the correct specs as the OEM manual calls out for then I will be ok? I guess what I am saying is I don't really know the difference or what constitutes a good or bad oil pump. What fails on the cheaper pump that would cause engine failure? A gear breaking or rubbing? I don't see it possible for the gears to stop completely seeing that they are connected to crank. Maybe the tighter the tolerances between gear lugs the more oil it can pump, so a worn or sloppy set of gears would still turn but not create enough suction to lift proper amount of oil to pressurize passage ways resulting in a lack of oil to bearings etc.
Do stock OEM mitsu oil pumps have MDxxxxx part numbers on them somewhere? I have two other used oil pumps but don't know their origin to compare my new one to it.
If you go with the stock pump then order from Cherry Hill at Mitsparts.com. Also try Love Mitsubishi out of San Bernadino (don't know their website off the top of my head). Cherry Hill generally is unbeatable when it comes to prices, but I ordered some defroster vents from Love Mitsu that were slightly cheaper, so you might want to check them out. I don't know the part numbers but I'm sure you can find them on this site.
When you open the pump, compare it to the specs with the manual. If it is not in spec then I would definitely not use it. If it is in spec, then it is your decision on whether to use it or not. Also, compare with the link I gave you in my first post. I think there was specs of the Toga pump there, and that might help you see of the one you have is a Toga pump.
I can't tell you from experience on what fails in a non-OEM pump but I would guess that the specs do not match what the service manual states, resulting in lower oil pressure and ultimately a destroyed engine. Also, it is a possibility that the gears and oil pump housing is made from a material that isn't as strong as the stock pump, meaning it wears out quicker, and maybe even the gears explode. I will add that a few stock pumps have had exploded gears, but those cases were probably in super high performance applications. I'm sure that's where the idea of the billet gears came from.
Ok so I used my snap on impact philips driver and opened both up with no striped screws. I noticed one big difference in the casting inside. Check pics below and the red arrow area is way different on my new "high flow" pump then the one that came off my 91 parts car. Both are thought to be TT if that makes a difference. I also noticed the bolt holes are different in areas. What did the idiot sell me? Can anyone verify what this is or what it fits?
In the link I posted, the pics are deleted, but it says that there is a casting difference in the Toga and the stock pump. Can you put the gears together and see if they are the same? If they are that is most likely a Toga pump. I wouldn't know anything about it, but it makes sense that in the thread it says if the gears are the same, there is no difference in the pressure. See if the gears are the same, if they are then it is basically a non-OEM pump.
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