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#1 (permalink) |
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Racing
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A few months after being TD05 I knew traction was an issue I couldn't avoid. Started collecting parts over a year ago by buying a car with a blown motor and parting it out, keeping the entire drivetran from the transfer case back.
Pulled the rear end. It didn't have rear calipers, just cut all the ABS and Ebrake lines. ![]() ![]() ![]() I stripped the rear end and got it ready to install ![]() Next I had to figure out how to mount the rear subframe to my car. Looked at the way bobthegreat did it. I also heard of a few other ways from some friends. Decided the easiest and best way would be to cut the mounts out of my parts car and weld them onto my car. ![]() ![]() ![]() Now that I had the front mount ready, I had to make a custom "nut" for the rear mount since the stub was not long enough to reach through the subframe. Looked at Bobthegreats drawings, made a few dimensional changes and made the nuts myself. ![]() ![]() ![]()
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92 Dodge Stealth R/T AWD/TT (TD05) converted ( 11.894 @ 120.56 - 18 psi -> Video )
![]() Twin TD05H EvoIII 16G's - Garrett FMIC - PTE 680cc - IPO Propane Injection - Maftpro - SouthBend DXD-F - PST CFDS - Northbend OS - Kaaz LSD - Cianci Victory Hood - Cianci Novara Bumper - Forged Internals 1mm over - and MUCH more.. |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Racing
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Had to buy something for AWS delete since I did not want to modify my system to make it work, as well as a way to lower the weight of my car.
![]() All my parts ready to install. AWS delete kit, nuts for the rear mounts, K-sport coilovers, Saner rear sway bar with 3/8" spacers ![]() ![]() Took my car and the rear subframe to a friends shop with a lift and welder. started getting to work. I had to cut out part of the existing front mounts to make room for the mounts I cut out to fit. I also ended up having to cut the stock front mount bolt so it wouldn't hit the control arm. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Racing
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![]() ![]() Mrt0mjones approves! ![]() Time to take her home, still lots of work left to do ![]() Pulled the rear end off in my garage to finish a few things like installing AWS delete and readjusting the height. ![]() For the rear dif plug I used a expandable rubber plug ![]() AWS delete. There are 2 places its possible to mount it up. The front mount is easier to use as you have access to putting the nut on, but this location was too close to the aftermarket sway bar. I ended up cutting a hold in the bottom of the subframe in order to install the nut. ![]() ![]() ![]() When I went to install the rear subframe for the last time, I had to deal with the difference in the top mount of the strut. The AWD rear strut sits at a slight angle while the FWD sits straight up/down. Like Bobthegreat, I used a rubber washer to take up the slack in the difference. The ride is VERY solid even with this! ![]() |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Racing
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![]() Next, I had to remove my Getrag and replace my welded center diff with a stock one. I also decided to use a Northbend OS ![]() ![]() ![]() I also had to replace the OS block off plate with a new OS seal ![]() ![]() Next task was the Driveshaft. I had the stock DS from the Parts car. It looked like it would be a hassle to make it fit correctly. Plus, who wants a stock DS? Decided to go with a PST CFDS! ![]() ![]() For fear of TC exploding, I decided to buy a Maximal Performance TC bracket, I also have a few spare TC's ready to go! ![]() ![]() |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Racing
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![]() I got everything running a week ago. No problems whatsoever. drove her down to Southeast Drag Day sunday morning and took her down the strip! Launching this beast is alot different. I got 8 runs in and I am still slipping the clutch wayy too much, although impoved on every run. My passes in order 1- 13.023 @ 109.62 (2.056 60' - 12 psi) 2- 12.609 @ 106.43 (1.867 60' - 12 psi) 3- 12.601 @ 107.02 (1.876 60' - 12 psi) I had been having problems not allowing me to raise the boost up past 13 psi. I finally think I have the culprit figured out (leaky BOV) so I tightened up the BOV and turned the boost up a little. This was also the first round of Quick8 Qualifications 4- 12.008 @ 117.70 (1.760 60' - 14 psi) Next run was second round of quick8 Qualifications, turned the boost up just a little more, no problems since tightening up the BOV! got a bad 60' on this one though 5- 12.344 @ 118.56 (1.910 60' - 16 psi) I Qualified 3rd place with a 10 second 280z in first and a T70 Grand National in second. First run was against a modded MR2. I decided not to touch the boost and just run as he was running low 13's all day. 6- 12.383 @117.94 (1.921 60' - 16 psi) (Beat the MR2 by a second) Next run was against the 10 second 280z. I decided to turn the boost up, but didn't know where fuel cut would be with the single Walbro (wasn't able to install the second walbro in time) He pulled way out in front of me and I started to gain on him, eventually passing him by the 1/8th.. little did I know he red lighted. lol 7- 11.912 @ 120.46 (1.732 60' - 18 psi) 11's Baby!!! Final run was against the GN. I took him on the launch, he bogged 2nd gear, then finnally passed me RIGHT at the lights.. humf Ended up winning 2nd place, though! 8- 11.894 @ 120.56 (1.794 60' - 18 psi) Looking back I should have turned the boost up on the last race, but was afraid of what my tune would be like above 18 psi, as well as when fuel cut would hit. I also forgot to bring my charger for my laptop, so I was unable to tune, and had never tuned above 14 psi, so I relied soley on AFR tracking to do the tuning for me. seemed to do fairly well, but was still 10.2-10.8 AFR's I need to get my 60's down and my boost up, but not bad for my first time EVER driving an AWD car down the strip. I was also able to bring my best 1/4 mile down from a 13.1 to a 11.89, and met my weekend goal of 11's @ 120 mph! Videos! My Final Quick8 run Just another random run, dont remember which ![]() Now that she is running, its time to thrown this guy in ![]() ![]() Last edited by Barefoot : 10-15-2007 at 04:49 PM. Reason: added timeslips |
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#6 (permalink) |
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3sAHOLIC
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Good to see it all come together Richard, and glad I could help out!
Shane
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FOR SALE: 2006 Katana 750.
![]() 1994 Stealth TT, 1 of 10, Mods- 3.1l 8.5:1 ross pistons, pauter rods, gtpro head gaskets, apr studs, DR stage 3 heads with street grind cams, high rev springs and 3gen lifters ,3SX TD05 kit with EVO III 16G's, PTE 680cc Injectors, SAFC II, Emanage Ultimate, Denzo Fuel Pump, LM-1 Wideband, Intrax Springs, DN Downpipe, Alamosports SMIC's and Hardpipes,Blitz DSBC Boost Controller, K & N Aircharger, 3" split dual exhaust- Straight pipes, Greddy Type-S BOV, Fidanza Flywheel, SS Brakelines,Hotwired fuel pump |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Wingless 3000GT Club
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Good job man! Holy cow great pics too! Are you on 13T's?
(note to self: read the first sentence of the thread, LOL)
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2002 WJ -- 1994 VR-4 -- 1993 ZJ --Canon Rebel XTi ![]() Last edited by lawdogg : 10-15-2007 at 03:00 PM. |
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