Modified Accessory Belt Routing Complete (PICS) - Page 10 - 3000GT/Stealth International Message Center

13diamonds · 10-31-2009, 02:23 PM

I just read the thread but i'm still unsure. Which belt could i use to reroute around the a/c compressor since mine started squeeling ? i'm eventually going to fix it but i need to stop the squeeling for now

Highboosted · 10-31-2009, 02:56 PM

Usually squeeling is from a too-loose belt or a dirty belt. Since we do not have automatic tensioners, you have to tighten the belt every so often as it ages.

*390 for routing straight to alternator, no other pullies, underdrive crank pulley will use 370.

*400 for routing using timing tensioner as idler, or reversing stock tensioner, underdrive crank pulley will use 390.

13diamonds · 10-31-2009, 03:30 PM

thanks so if i use a 400 i can reroute the belt for now and when i get a new compressor just replace with a oem belt and have my a/c back?

leesredgt · 11-13-2009, 06:16 PM

If i use the *400 belt do i still have to cut the Alt. bracket?

Highboosted · 11-13-2009, 07:08 PM

No, the 400 belt avoids modifying the alt bracket, but you need to use an idler, I use a timing belt tensioner puller and a couple washers in place of the stock stationary idler.

The 390 is for straight routing with stock pulley, but need to modify the bracket. IIRC 370 for unorthadox underdrive and modified bracket, I'll have to check my notes.

leesredgt · 11-13-2009, 07:55 PM

Sweet.I still have to reverse the stock tensioner dont i?Or do i still just put tension on it by pulling the alternator up with a pry bar?

Also i went to gates website and put in the number and i cant find it.Is there anything else i need to put in to bring it up?

Thanks for your help.

Highboosted · 11-14-2009, 12:15 AM

No more stock tensioner, that whole shabang can be removed, along with that heavy A/C bracket. You will save 34 lbs from removing the compressor, bracket, and tensioner, condensor and bolts. Not including the evaporator core, lines, and dryer, which was around 7-10 lbs IIRC with blower assy.

Timing belt tensioner pulley is what will tension the belt, no need for removing the alternator or anything. I'll take a pic tomorrow for ya.

Part number IIRC is K060400. (6 rib, ~40 inch length)

Hidden somewhere in this thread is all the information, I just took notes of everything to keep it organized, but I can't find them yet.

Pic of straight routing courtesy of r1elkins:

https://webfiles.colorado.edu/elkins...ker/belts1.jpg

With a 370 belt and underdrive, stock pulley will use a 390.

Mean Green · 11-14-2009, 02:17 AM

interesting...I wonder if this can be done and still keep the A/C? I want to eliminate the pulleys as that is probably the only original part on my motor and they are in need of replacing due to squealing pulley bearings.

Highboosted · 11-14-2009, 11:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mean Green

interesting...I wonder if this can be done and still keep the A/C? I want to eliminate the pulleys as that is probably the only original part on my motor and they are in need of replacing due to squealing pulley bearings.

Nope, without the stock tensioner pulley the belt will not wrap around the A/C compressor enough to spin it, and you'll squeel like mad with the A/C on...

You could eliminate the idler, though, with a bit of grinding on the alt bracket, if you can find the right size belt.

leesredgt · 11-14-2009, 06:08 PM

Ok so i went out and got the 400* belt and tried it,and even without the timing tensioner pulley on there its not long enough to go around the the stock crankshaft pulley and the Alt.

Should i put the free spinning pulley on and loosen the Alt. up and then stretch it around it and pry it back up into place like he did in the first picture and tighten it down? Im trying to keep from cutting the bracket if possible,i want to be able to put it back to factory if i ever wanted to.

Thanks again for your help,i appreciate it very much.