maximum hp on engine and transmission

[Echo419]

Originally Posted by Racer_X

If you have a 2G car (94+), you will need to replace yoru rods if you plan on making 650+ hp on a REGULAR basis or 700 hp AT ALL. You may as well change the pistons because of the wrist pin design and the fact that detonation at high power can/will send them into pieces. The forged crankshaft will be stronger than the cast crank, and most likely more durable. You will need head work to flow that kind of power efficiently. The 5 speed 25 spline and 6 speed transmissions are pretty stout units. The 5 speed 18 spline transmission will break output shafts. The 5 speeds all have a chronic problem with breaking the aluminum transfer case housings when drag raced heavily. The speed transfer case is steel and fairly stout. Teh 6 speed transmission will crack open like a nut if the bell housing is not re-enforced (after about 500 whp and repetative launching). After that, the end plate will crack apart. No practical solution for that yet. You will probably break rear axles with a good bit of power (not sure how much). hope this helps. your best bet is to call Dynamic Racing and do what they say. They have the most experience in building fast 3000GT's.

with all that money he could just buy a fast car......

[Racer_X]

Originally Posted by Echo419

with all that money he could just buy a fast car......

HEHEHEHEHHEEHEHHEHE Touche!

[lancervnt]

Originally Posted by Racer_X

If you have a 2G car (94+), you will need to replace yoru rods if you plan on making 650+ hp on a REGULAR basis or 700 hp AT ALL. You may as well change the pistons because of the wrist pin design and the fact that detonation at high power can/will send them into pieces. The forged crankshaft will be stronger than the cast crank, and most likely more durable. You will need head work to flow that kind of power efficiently. The 5 speed 25 spline and 6 speed transmissions are pretty stout units. The 5 speed 18 spline transmission will break output shafts. The 5 speeds all have a chronic problem with breaking the aluminum transfer case housings when drag raced heavily. The speed transfer case is steel and fairly stout. Teh 6 speed transmission will crack open like a nut if the bell housing is not re-enforced (after about 500 whp and repetative launching). After that, the end plate will crack apart. No practical solution for that yet. You will probably break rear axles with a good bit of power (not sure how much). hope this helps. your best bet is to call Dynamic Racing and do what they say. They have the most experience in building fast 3000GT's.

Yes that helps.
I'd like to argue about the head flow. Although it's a good idea to have as much head flow as possible, I don't think it's a big deal. I just run a bit more boost to compensate.

Again to compare to DSMs, my Talon runs on a bone stock engine, from the head to the block. Stock cams. I shift at 8000rpm and I make peak power at from 6700rpm to 7500rpm. Most people did not believe that to be possible.
The reason I am making so much power up top is the fact that I have a very large turbine side on the turbocharger. It's a T4 P-trim .84 a/r.
Head flow is important but turbocharger efficiency and a big turbine/exhaust side is even more important.

To answer the above question, I'm from Quebec Canada. Btw I'm French canadian so if you find my English funny, you know why.

[lancervnt]

Originally Posted by Echo419

with all that money he could just buy a fast car......

There are so many options that would be a lot cheaper and so much faster than building a Stealth, like building a turbocharged Mustang. But I really love the AWD and the looks of the Stealth and 3000GT. I love the traction and the fact that I don't absolutely need slicks to hook up.

[wheelman]

Originally Posted by lancervnt

I don't think it's a big deal. I just run a bit more boost to compensate.

Until you get head lift from 35psi and have to start pinning them. Not a good idea, you are doing a bandaid fix... do the "right" thing and get headwork done to run lower boost.

Originally Posted by lancervnt

To answer the above question, I'm from Quebec Canada. Btw I'm French canadian so if you find my English funny, you know why.

Simple question, simple answer: are you darkdevil?

[Ondontii]

Matt ran 9.71@151mph on a bone stock shortblock.
It was just a cobbled together shortblock out of spare engine parts that he threw together to make a pass at the track though. It spun a bearing later on after the races, likely because the rods were not in great condition. He was spinning it to 9500 rpms at the track (on the stock shortblock).

If you want more power from a bone stock shortblock, you need to do the same thing you are doing with your DSM. Make high RPM power. That will require headwork.

When guys have too much HP @ 5000 rpms they tend to kill rods. Over 600ft/lb seems to be the real danger zone for the stock rods. I really dont think HP matters. If you can move the powerband up so you dont make too much torque, the stock shortblock should hold together longer or take more power.

BTW, hopefully you ditch the vnt and put a TII on your lancer...if I am thinking along the right lines Or go with a Super 60 vnt

[lancervnt]

Originally Posted by wheelman

Until you get head lift from 35psi and have to start pinning them. Not a good idea, you are doing a bandaid fix... do the "right" thing and get headwork done to run lower boost.

That's a common misconception. Boost does not raise heads, combustion pressure does. More boost = more combustion pressure, more headflow increases combustion pressure but to a lesser extent.

There is a few easy methods to avoid head lift. Reduce ignition timing at peak (effectively reducing torque), have a progressive boost controller, or simply slap on a turbo so big it cannot make full boost at the natural peak torque of the engine (like I did on my DSM).

So what I would do would be to raise boost pressure above say 6000rpm so not to have such a peaky power band.

Simple question, simple answer: are you darkdevil?

No.

[lancervnt]

Originally Posted by Ondontii

Matt ran 9.71@151mph on a bone stock shortblock.
It was just a cobbled together shortblock out of spare engine parts that he threw together to make a pass at the track though. It spun a bearing later on after the races, likely because the rods were not in great condition. He was spinning it to 9500 rpms at the track (on the stock shortblock).

If you want more power from a bone stock shortblock, you need to do the same thing you are doing with your DSM. Make high RPM power. That will require headwork.

When guys have too much HP @ 5000 rpms they tend to kill rods. Over 600ft/lb seems to be the real danger zone for the stock rods. I really dont think HP matters. If you can move the powerband up so you dont make too much torque, the stock shortblock should hold together longer or take more power.

9.71 @ 151, I like... I wish he could have held it together for a few trips at the track at least.

See there are many ways to see this. I think the guys who bend the rods have detonation. They should not bend rods simply because of the torque.
Usually high RPM is what kills an engine. That's when the rod bolts let go and you know the rest. It's also what kills rod bearings. High rpm is good for reducing chances of detonation. Detonation usually happens when peak torque is too high for a given fuel octane.

BTW, hopefully you ditch the vnt and put a TII on your lancer...if I am thinking along the right lines Or go with a Super 60 vnt

LOLOLOL. Wow you know about those ??
That was my first car that I modded in 1996. I had a VNT turbo and it was junk. I did put a Super 60 and I ran 13.7 @ 104 mph @ 25 psi. On that old Dodge Lancer. Lancervnt is a really old nickname I just kept.

[Echo419]

Originally Posted by lancervnt

There are so many options that would be a lot cheaper and so much faster than building a Stealth, like building a turbocharged Mustang. But I really love the AWD and the looks of the Stealth and 3000GT. I love the traction and the fact that I don't absolutely need slicks to hook up.

eh' I was kinda messin with ya.

[Mikes95RT]

Good God..such *DRAMA* over a question. It's one of the reasons I can stay absent from this board for 5 days at a time when I used to not be able to spend 5 hrs. without logging on.Sheeesh.

Anyway, this board is going to bash about any noob question just because it's how it is this day and age.You could be John Force asking a question under a alias screen name and he would get bashed. Don't let it get to you.

If you want a really fast 3s something I would really consider. Even though you have the knowledge, and I know building a car is most of the fun. You should think about having someone reputable build the car and tune it for you.
It seems the way to make safe high H.P. is with a 3.5 swap or a stroker. Someone like Ray or Matt (Dynamic Racing) would save you money in the long run.I am well versed at building motors but would forgo building stroker on my own because the parts are expensive and it's best left to someone who has built them before. To have someone who has built a few and who pioneered the way can save you money and headace.They can also help you pick out a matching set of turbos for the power goal you are looking for and they can give you a tuned car that is built right without the guess work and save you money from just buying the wrong combo of parts.

I'm sure a reputable shop would value your input and allow you to be a "part" of the build. If you were saying you wanted to make 450-500 H.P. I would say have at it an enjoy. But making 700 AWHP+ doesn't give you a lot of room to fail.Honestly,for what parts cost and the time involved a turn key car may be the best route.

I'm not doubting your skill..It's just that we have some great engine builders on this board and their experience could save you in the long run and help you reach your goal.
Good luck.