To be honest, if you really want to hit 9's on the cheap, you're looking at the wrong platform. 3/S owners tend to like having a car that can make a lot of power... but do it with style, comfort and class. There are exceptions (Matt's drag car doesn't even have a left tail light) but that "spirit" tends to be the central theme here.
I like having cars that are kinda unique. I want to spend in the right places. I don't want to spend where i don't need to spend.
Whitedragon I don't see what's the big deal? I asked a question that the answer and not easily searchable. Instead of wasting time explaining why I should search just answer the question if you know the answer. I bet you don't have all the answers to my questions yourself.
I walked into your house ?? LMAO. Sorry, that is funny. Do you want me to take my shoes off ?
Here take my coat.
geez.
Everyone answered your question already.
The answers are debateable, but basically:
93 is the best year if you stay on stock ECU.
94+ is the best if you don't stay on stock ECU.
93 has a stronger engine than 91/92 and still is OBD1 so it is easy to mod and log.
93 has 5 speed which is overall better for drag racing.
93 has aluminum transfer case. To consistently run 9s on a very light 3/s (3000 lbs with driver) you are still going to need the billet or cast iron aftermarket transfer case or carry a load of spare stockers with you.
Either with the 5 or 6 speed you'd do well to weld in the bellhousing plate.
Axles are not nearly as weak as people say lately. We are only recently breaking them often. Aftermarket ones that actually hold are being developed now.
I do not believe that you can run many 9 second passes on a stock shortblock. You are on borrowed time trying to do that.
There are what 3 cars now that have run a 9 or faster?
10s are a much more realistic goal.
Also you'll probably have to trap the upper 140s to hit a 9 in a 3/s.
That just means it's possible. All I want to know is what fails at those power levels.
See for DSMs in the 9s you need rods and pistons for the engine.
Transmission is iffy at that level but you can get a brand new one for 2 grand.
Axles sometimes pop, transfer case pop.
So right now I've got for the Stealth TT:
6 speed/2nd gen engine
Transfer case stainless steel,
welded plate in transmission
aftermarket rods/pistons, forged crank
300M axles
93 is the best year if you stay on stock ECU.
94+ is the best if you don't stay on stock ECU.
93 has a stronger engine than 91/92 and still is OBD1 so it is easy to mod and log.
93 has 5 speed which is overall better for drag racing.
93 has aluminum transfer case. To consistently run 9s on a very light 3/s (3000 lbs with driver) you are still going to need the billet or cast iron aftermarket transfer case or carry a load of spare stockers with you.
.
That's good too. I havent bought the car yet, I have a few options.
So is the 6 speed or 5 speed stronger ? Or are they both very stout?
I would most likely use AEM EMS if I were to build such a car. Unless there was a program similar to DSMlink that I could use for the stealth.
That's good too. I havent bought the car yet, I have a few options.
So is the 6 speed or 5 speed stronger ? Or are they both very stout?
I would most likely use AEM EMS if I were to build such a car. Unless there was a program similar to DSMlink that I could use for the stealth.
they are both very strong, but the 6 speed cracks open like an egg sometimes. This is basically because the transfer case is the fuse in the 5 speed drivetrain.
Our ecus are not re-programmable at all. All the piggysback we use work outside of the ecu.
The reason most say to seach is cause we get a ton of newbies here that say they want to make bigass power but have no idea how to tune or for that matter turn a wrench.
I'm sure like the DSM it's a hit or miss whether or not a part is going to fail.
With that there are many ways of getting into the 9's and what works for one person may not for the other. While one guy is breaking rods, blowing transfer cases or snapping axles, the other guy still has his orginal 120k ones in his car.
Also alot of it has to do with how much you want to spend? Do you have a budget for this or is the sky the limit?
Oh and if it wasn't asked do you want this as a daily driver or a pure track car?
The reason most say to seach is cause we get a ton of newbies here that say they want to make bigass power but have no idea how to tune or for that matter turn a wrench.
I'm sure like the DSM it's a hit or miss whether or not a part is going to fail.
With that there are many ways of getting into the 9's and what works for one person may not for the other. While one guy is breaking rods, blowing transfer cases or snapping axles, the other guy still has his orginal 120k ones in his car.
Also alot of it has to do with how much you want to spend? Do you have a budget for this or is the sky the limit?
Oh and if it wasn't asked do you want this as a daily driver or a pure track car?
I have a 2006 Ion Redline stage II as a daily driver.
My GF has a 2005 Ford Escape too. We're not on foot.
It would be a weekend car mostly. It will see the street that is for sure. I don't plan on racing it on the street, the laws are way too severe up here.
I want to drive it to the track and not have to trailer.
I would probably not want to gut too much. Maybe remove everything behind the front seats and keep the front stock looking.
As for the budget, no the sky isn't the limit or else I'd just buy everything and have some slap it together. I do my own wrenching most of the time depending on how many hours I work. I may just try my luck on a stock engine until it fails and then see from there. Might be entertaining to see how far it will go.
What some of the members here need to learn is "search" is not a good answer. Provide some keywords to the new users and that will let them get to the inforamtion they want.
This user seems intelligent and seems to have taken my advice to read matts posts. My one comment has probably help more than 9 people saying "search noob". If you don't want to answer at least point them in the right direction.
Their is the other option, if we could get the people with the answers to write FAQ's the newer members would have some good techinical resources available to them.
So where are you loacted?
Stock block can get you 600awhp but then again I've seen them throw rods right out the side of the block, again it's a hit or miss.
If you have a 2G car (94+), you will need to replace yoru rods if you plan on making 650+ hp on a REGULAR basis or 700 hp AT ALL. You may as well change the pistons because of the wrist pin design and the fact that detonation at high power can/will send them into pieces. The forged crankshaft will be stronger than the cast crank, and most likely more durable. You will need head work to flow that kind of power efficiently. The 5 speed 25 spline and 6 speed transmissions are pretty stout units. The 5 speed 18 spline transmission will break output shafts. The 5 speeds all have a chronic problem with breaking the aluminum transfer case housings when drag raced heavily. The speed transfer case is steel and fairly stout. Teh 6 speed transmission will crack open like a nut if the bell housing is not re-enforced (after about 500 whp and repetative launching). After that, the end plate will crack apart. No practical solution for that yet. You will probably break rear axles with a good bit of power (not sure how much). hope this helps. your best bet is to call Dynamic Racing and do what they say. They have the most experience in building fast 3000GT's.
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Re: maximum hp on engine and transmission
w/DBB DR1000's
