The Junkyards new Junk motor. 190,000 mile 10:1 Diamante shortblock with heads/cams

[Ondontii]

Cam lope video
The Junkyard's new Junk Motor. 10:1 heads/cams - Car Videos on StreetFire
Cam lope video

Found a 10:1 compression 1994 Diamante 3.0 in the junkyard. 190,000 miles but it looked like the last owner had actually worked on it, even removing valve covers etc. Not sure why the front head is so clean. Even the other head is very clean, and all the journals look virgin. The Bearings in the motor looked almost new. The only high mileage indication was that the piston oil rings were locked up and all the return holes were plugged with coked oil. Went through and cleaned it up. Bolted on my ported/cam'd heads because I found the top ringland is too high for me to feel comfortable running as much boost as I had planned on stock heads (30ish).

Actual compression will be more like 9.7:1 with the 51cc combustion chambers vs 46-47cc stock.

Main upgrade with this build is a 1000hp fuel system.
-Twin parallel GSL392 Walbro 255lph high pressure external pumps. Hotwired to 14v. Gravity fed.
-Using 2 stock 5/16" feed lines. One for each pump.
-Parallel fuel rails, 1 pump/line feeding each rail.
-single return line.
-Jaz 12 gallon 2" sump fuel cell (70-10ohm fuel level sender), twin -8an outlets. -6an breather. Added 3/8" barb for return line.

Enough fuel for 1000whp on gasoline or about 750whp on E70. Thats conservative. I have 2100cc's of methanol which can support another 150whp but my meth pump is still fubar'd right now.
So total fuel capacity is 1150whp on gas, 900whp on E70.
I might run E95 in the future which will drop those numbers quite a bit. But those numbers are conservative. If I need more fuel I can up the fuel pump voltage or change to twin Denso 044 pumps.
Honda guys are making 890whp on a 5/16" line on alcohol! Using a Walbro in tank and Denso 044 in series. I don't want to push that hard, and I will temporarily be running very high fuel pressures (my MSII is in the mail but I don't see it getting installed soon).

I figure this motor will make 450whp uncorrected on 15ish psi. With megasquirt, a lot more as I could take the cam gears back to stock and pick up a lot more on the top end with higher rev limiter.
These heads did 447whp uncorrected (at 4400 feet )on 20psi with only 7.0:1 compression and massive blowbye so 9.7:1 and better ring seal should have no problems keeping up, especially on E70 fuel.

I think its going to make some freakin insane hp and be very peppy with the higher compression. With Megasquirt and another 1500+ rpms to rev and non advanced cam timing, it should be a beast even on low boost levels.
I am interested where this motor will start to spool the turbo and then get full boost. Maybe the powerband will widen enough to prevent me from dropping out of the powerband on shifts with these heads on stock rev limiter.

If I don't pop this motor, then i will probably donate the shortblock to my daily driver and think about buying some forged flat top turbo friendly pistons. My 7.0:1 Venolias were beasts, withstanding 15-17:1 leanouts in the 400+whp area.
I was going to built a 24v 3.8L Mivec with compound turbo setup but I might stick with this since I cant really afford that route right now. My fuel system is sorta overdone in case I build the 3.8L, then I will be just a few fuel mods away from being able to support a 1400+whp compound turbo setup.



Some top rings were gapped as small as .012"!!!
Now top are set to .024" or more depending on cylinder location and 2nd ring is .030-.032 depending on location.
For some reason the stock 2nd rings were gapped larger then the top rings which is NOT normal for motors built 15+ years ago. Not sure if its because of the high compression pistons or what. Only recently have people started gapping 2nd rings larger in almost all applications.

Cleaned out clogged oil return holes and then drilled them out larger.
Piston on the right is a broken 8.9:1 1992+ 3.0 piston that has a lower top ring location then the 10:1 piston.



.014" copper wire surrounding each combustion chamber. Superglue ftw. Copper spray ftw.

Stock Mitsubishi Diamante knock sensor. Not sure how to take advantage of it. Knock sense is a possibility but not sure.




I bought a foam rubber mat at the dollar store (sunflower pattern!!!) and cut it up to try to isolate vibrations from the pump. I know these pumps are loud.
I have a layer between upper bolt head and chassis, layer between chassis and bracket, layer between bracket and fender washer. Then wrapped the pumps. Not sure if it will make one bit of a difference :P



Here is my timeslip on a stock heads, cams, shortblock, n/a ecu, paper headgasket with welding wire superglued to fire ring.
I got wasted by the 10 second honda. 31+ mph on the top end but my driving was horrible. You can see he blows me away at every shift. Got made fun of a bit because a better driver like him would have made a 10 second pass in the car.

Anyways, going for a 10 second pass on this shortblock with ME driving.
http://i546.photobucket.com/albums/h...L/IMG_4598.jpg
The video including in car kaboom on 2nd pass. Lack of fuel fixed!
The Junkyard's $90 Motor runs 11.5@125 - Car Videos on StreetFire

[HilbillyHomeboy]

Good luck, this engine sounds much more promising than the last.

Speaking of sound, it "sounds" badass in the lope video.

Jeremy

[Hard AttacK]

I would love to cruise around on the street in that raping every car hahaha. Built motor + POS = my favorite

[zba857]

Great post, Great pics, Great video! Congrats and good luck.

[Polygon]

Can't wait to see you run it at RMR. It sounds great man!

[Ondontii]

I brought my Megasquirt EMS up with me to Seattle and my daily driver has the same wiring so I will work on a plug and play harness

No more 6200 rpm rev limiter on my big single

This car is funny because Ive never had anyone try to race my loud Dodge Spirit but even bimmers and caddys try to provoke me to race this car! I remember my first drive ever i had a middle aged couple in their caddy try to race me onto an onramp that drops down to 1 lane. Old lady did a flybye at 140mph!!! (and almost crashed since it was a corner when she did that). But catch a Mullet on the road and he will NOT play if I downshift and he can no longer hear his engine over mine :P Plus I think the BOV confuses them even more since the car that appears to be louder then theirs also seems to be turbocharged. The most recent mullet was asked by my passenger to race (i didnt want to anyways) and he said "oh, my car is overheating."

Still have AWD in the works too. 6g7x and FWD is teh ghey!
I WILL build a 3.8L mivec with compound turbo setup in the future if I can get the AWD project to hold decent power (AWD minivan parts.....my transfercase is bigger then yours hehe).
AWD car that is a couple hundred pounds lighter then Nelson's billion dollar beast and only worth 100 dollars. Owned lol!
I could invest in losing some more weight and well

This site has always been a big help for me. I love how anal and technical people are. Keeps people on their toes and I think its part of the reason we are finally seeing the fruit of our 6g7x labors!

[jba3]

How's the megasquirt with the 3.8L Mivec? I've always wondered about that.

[Ondontii]

Motor is officially running on Megasquirt but I pounded out the center main bearings when my car detonated on the dyno (pre megasquirt).

Have to do some repairs including headgaskets (leaking oil into block valley = annoying). The copper wires and MLS seem to seal well but the used OEM MLS had some dirt between one of the layers near the oil feed holes and it leaks

Talked to ray about the center mains repair and I will get around to it eventually. I had a half second or so oil starvation situation and thats how I found out my main bearings were rubbish...as the center mains instantly started seizing up (material from bottom bearing had moved to the top bearing and closed up the clearances there so lack of oil = seize).

Moment I popped out the top main bearings (girdle already removed) the crank was easy to turn again. It didnt completely seize, I just pulled over as I had shifted into 5th and felt like the motor was almost powerless up a hill. Towed it home and found the results.


Ive been up to 6700 rpms with no valve float on my big cams. A few of us are researching G54B (mitsu 2.6L from starions and minivans etc) valvetrain parts. We already found their stock valvesprings are twice as strong, we can use their valves as GIANT valve upgrads (+3-4mm ish), we can use their retainers (titanium upgrades) and it also seems we have some OEM solid lifter ROLLER rockers that can be used. Thank you MITSUBISHI!!!!!! Still researching the solid lifter rockers, There are some that we can use that are sliders (yuck). The solid rollers have a few clearance issues to make work so there is still researching going on whether we can use them with some modifications, or even try adapting the solid lifter to a hydraulic lifter rocker. The lifters bolt into the rocker so there would be machine work involved.

I may be looking at 8000 rpms in the future as long as my heads/cams will still make power up there. More power on less boost will make me happy.

I don't understand a lot of the megasquirt stuff still but its been pretty easy since I was able to get a base tune from someone else (takes care of complicated settings that have nothign to do with fuel/spark tables).

[green-lantern]

Videos will not play on my work PC


Look forward to seeing the AWD conversion. Good work man!

[Ondontii]

I just bought an F body posi 10 bolt rear end (yeah, the sucky ones). Been researching the best ways to beef them up. 3.42:1 ratio matches up perfect with the 1:3.42 ratio transfer case gearing. The T case pumpkin is bigger then my rear end :P

I don't have enough money at the moment to complete the rear end but my plans are
-4 link
-coilovers (not sure where I will mount them yet)
-after market 10 bolt cover that includes a girdle for the caps inside the pumpkin. brace on the axle tubes to prevent them from flexing forward under launch (which pulls the gears apart inside the diff). weld up the tubes and add some reinforcement. solid shim instead of this OEM crush sleeve on the pinion.
-Wilwood rear drag brakes (the 12" F body rotors are WAY too much) hopefully in the 10.25" diameter, not the 11.7" that they usually offer. I want to cut some weight off.
-shorten axles 1-3" on each side. .

Final piece of the puzzle once that is worked out is a custom carbon fiber driveshaft. There are a lot of driveshaft shops in Utah that do custom work because of the 4 wheeling community here and the carbon fiber shafts are also produced IN UTAH. Whats funny is that if I find a good deal my custom shaft should be MUCH less then the overpriced 3/S units.

I was watching video of an AWD caravan having a tug of war with a FWD caravan today and it got me extra excited :P
Problem with that caravan is it has all open diffs. I can't get a torsional diff for my front diff (AWD diff doesnt have any upgrades) but my rear axle has POSI and also can be upgraded to a fancier unit, and I will have no center differential. If nothing else, I will be able to get myself out of mud holes :P
Best thing to do for the front diff is springs/clutchpacks/crappy phantom grip etc.
Or weld the thing and completely HATE life!


With no center diff my rear end will never see more then half my HP so I am thinking with how light my car is my 10 bolt with modifications should handle 1000hp (500 front, 500 rear).
In 3700# F bodies 400+whp and slicks they seem to be very unhappy. With the added weight of AWD I don't think my car will weigh more then 2600# WITH driver.

Megasquirt finally came true for me so the only big weird project I have left is the AWD. I will probably still make passes FWD (remove AWD stuff) because my community probably won't accept AWD times as legit lol. Oh man, auto trans would kill with AWD.
Guy I know just ran a low 9 his first pass out on only 28psi in same car I have (but his is drag prepped and 26x10" slicks, built auto trans, 16v 4 cylinder). I would love to put AWD in his car. I sorta enjoy my complete failure at manual trans racing and want to improve my driver mod without a cheater trans.

I am pretty dang sure this motor hit 600 hp on the dyno but the only pass that recorded was the one that blew out 2 o rings and still made 447 on 4 good cylinders. High compression, ethanol fuel, boost, big cams. Match made in heaven!