It turns out that the factory wiring for the starter solenoid just
barely meets the amperage draw requirements for the starter to engage.
Even worse, the powersource comes from the actual ignition wiring. Over
time, the connections corrode and the starter solenoid, as it ages,
requires more amperage in order to engage the starter. The factory
wiring is simply not up to par. You might notice that turning off the
AC, stereo, radar detector, etc will sometimes help it start without
clicking, this is because basically all the electronics in the car are
fed through a very small connection from the battery. A turbo timer, if
you have one, also draws its juice from the same line as the starter
solenoid.
Here is my setup.
Black wire gets grounded, and the yellow wire goes to the pos. terminal (with spare female connectors for other things like your fuel pump hotwire [also working on an alternative, simpler way to do the hotwire])
Would go for $32 shipped - a cleaner version of what is shown (just the prototype that I used on my car).
What do you guys think?
Joe
EDIT: New and improved version.
__________________
Best ET: 12.388@113.05mph 1.76 60' Best MPH: 12.56@114.3mph 1.9 60'
348awhp 301awtq - 3SX Stingy Dyno
Last edited by byebye_sti : 11-03-2009 at 12:16 PM.
Re: Interest Thread: Plug and Play 'Click-click-start' fix
Quote:
Originally Posted by byebye_sti
What do you guys think?
Do the external harness as a last resort.
The starting system is an incredibly simple diagram, the problem(in addition to possible aged wire) is in the connections on the way to the "S" clip on the starter.
1) Crimp a new female spade connector
2) cut out that factory connector and re-crimp with new female/male weatherproof disconnects.
3) Sometimes the relay contacts get dirty or bad, replace it.
4) Sometimes the clutch switch goes bad. The best way to bypass it, is to just unplug it just above the clutch pedal. Otherwise it's a $30-ish part from the dealer.
And if all that STILL does not work, then there is bad wire.
Re: Interest Thread: Plug and Play 'Click-click-start' fix
I don't use the external harness anymore.
I was just going to sell it as a quick, easy, plug and play fix for people that didn't want to go through the more technical wiring trouble that the other solution has.
I was going to do a write-up about the more technical way tomorrow.
Surprise ruiner.
BTW - my clutch switch is faulty - I've been working around that.
Also, the new way that I'm doing it is so subtle (I have pictures too - I'll do the writeup later), but it will disarm the factory alarm and you WILL be able to start the car while the alarm is going off. (Assuming the alarm system works the way it's suppose to)
Last edited by byebye_sti : 11-01-2009 at 11:51 PM.
Re: Interest Thread: Plug and Play 'Click-click-start' fix
I know someone local (VR4-Case) that would buy one of these in a heart beat. Shoot me a PM if you decide to follow through with this (in the event that I forget about this thread).
__________________
'93 3000GT VR-4: Stock blocked, Hoosiered, 3335 lbs of axle-snapping fury. 2002: 9B's: 12.78 @ 107.1 // stock turbos, fuel, clutch, cat-back 2003: S16G's: 13.41 @ 112.4 // JPDC adapter plates, way too rich A:F, slipping stock clutch 2004: 14B's: 11.10 @ 127.3 (25 psi) // 488 AWHP & 483 AWTQ @ 20 psi 2005: E16G's: 11.20 best ET; 129.2 best trap // DR Headers & limits of RPS Street clutch
93 Octane: 11.28 @ 124.69 (126 mph best trap) // 100% street trim 2006: 10.92 @ 131.9 mph @ 29 psi // 10.573 @ 135.01 mph @ 31.5 psi 2009: 584 AWHP & 561 AWTQ @ 32.6 psi, 104.25 octane & BS Excuses
To-do: Fix 3-4 fork, install bell housing brace, upgrade cams, re-dyno, and go break more parts. Congrats to the current top 10 members!! DynamicRacing: US 3S Top 10 Fastest List
Quote:
Originally Posted by AudibleSilence
Serious question... Why does Texas have it's own flag? The nation is supposed to have ONE flag.. Please enlighten me.
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