I have to rebuild....

[iceman_ii]

If you get a block with oil squirters, and you get forged pistons, go ahead and seal up the oil squirters, you won't need them.

I just called my buds at Libertyville mitsu, and asked them to look up the part numbers. Through 96, the rods were the same, and the crank was the same between the NA and the TT. The oil pump was different, but it wouldn't hurt to get a higher volume TT pump anyway, even if you do close off the squirters.

Edit...

Again, if you are going to turbo it, I can't recommend strongly enough you go with lower compression... if you compress it to higher pressures up front, you can always cool more of the heat of compression through an intercooler... If you only compress it a little, then compress it more in the piston, more heat of compression stays with the air charge.

[jackhammer]

Originally Posted by J-Groove

Is the only internal difference in the TT and N/A engines the pistons, basically I want to know if I can reuse my crank (I will get it checked) gurdel etc. ?

The girdle should remain with the block because they were machined while assembled when new. Just like keeping rod caps and cam caps together. Dont buy a block without a girdle.

[iceman_ii]

Originally Posted by jackhammer

The girdle should remain with the block because they were machined while assembled when new. Just like keeping rod caps and cam caps together. Dont buy a block without a girdle.

Excellent point!

[rush6432]

Originally Posted by J-Groove

DO you remeber where you picked up your wiseco pistons from? From their web site all I saw was the lower compression TT pistons.

another quick question, as right now I want to stay 10:1, but being that I will be taking Jackhamers advice and gettnig either new pistons or using ones that might come with a block I track down.

Is the only internal difference in the TT and N/A engines the pistons, basically I want to know if I can reuse my crank (I will get it checked) gurdel etc. ?

Also, if I end up finding a TT bare block (with oil squirters) can I still use my new N/A oil pump, or will I need to pick up a new TT one?

Thanks again for all the help, I knwo I ask a lot of questions, but that is how I learn. I want to know theory first, then I build, then I am forever confident in my ability to do something.

-John

while the rods are out may as well magnaflux em and shot pene em for added strength, maybe cryo em too. if the block is apart and you plan to keep 10:1 do as much as you can while its apart to beef it up, nows your only chance unless you want to pull it out again and then do it. new rings, bearings, pump, tbelt accessories and belt itself, possibly water pump (depending on mileage of old one) and get some new headstuds (either arp or factory, which ever is cheaper) you can also try the headgasket trick (thicker headgasket) to lower compression, i know cometic makes a slightly thicker headgasket to drop the 10:1 to 9:5:1 i think. its a cheaper alternative. also get solid front and rear mounts no matter what. you will have wheelhop issues, everyone does when they boost and run more than standard 6 psi.
Dont go with anything other than OEM for the headgasket unless your going with the thicker ones to drop your compression. OEM MLS (multi layer steel)
Its been proven to work on many 10 second 3Ss, so dont chance it with the felpro junk or whatever else. oem rod/main/thrust washers as well. be sure to bang the dent(s) out of your oil pan (most 3Ss have them and this contributes to the spun bearing club or faster wear than normal) make sure the pickup tube is traight and no dings in the pipe itself and that the pickup is not smashed or bent in any way. Make sure everything is perfect and clean. you can probably get away with a fairly cheap build here if you shop around. if you dont already have the service manual get it. make sure you use a GOOD known calibrated TQ wrench when tq'ing the mains and rods. also try covering the rod studs with 3/8 fuel line to keep them from scratching the crank journals when installing the piston/rod assembly into the block. have the block hottanked and cleaned and you should be good.

[J-Groove]

When buying forged pistons (I swear I am probably asking stupid questions, but searching is not answering all of them) Is it recommended to also go with new rods? Gien that our stock rods are forged, and even though mine are 110K miles old, the car was running great and should be fine to use with new forged pistons and new bearings...correct?

I thankfully have a friend who works for 5.0 Resto and has rebuilt numerous ford V8 and V6's that has agreed to help me out locally. Rock Rock On.

Again, sorry for so many n00bish questions, I just want to get her done and done right as soon as possible with my schedual.

-John

[NeoValentine]

Best to get it all in one shot man. If your gonna rebuild or build up a block. Take care of any weak links. Just don't go overboard. You love to drive your car, and just about every built motor I've seen breaks down. I'd do a stock build up with a TT block. Go factory stuff and make it cheap and strong. Unless your building a race car keep in sane. My FWD TT is already such a beast and pain in the ass, and it's 8psi on 10:1, with all stock parts with over 130k miles.

[J-Groove]

Thanks again for all yoru help, there are a few of you who I've already talked with in PMs 'm sure will be hearing from me again....I'm sorry. haha

I'm going on Saturday to pick up my new block from Deftool.

He is helping me out by selling me his spare '99 TT short block. It has a cracked piston but in the pics and his visual inspection there is no visable scaring. And even if there is a little I'm going to have the block bored and honed anyways.

I'll be reusing the best parts between the two short blocks, pic the best crank and 6 rods. Then I'll be going with forged pistons (wont be ordering them untill I know for sure what the bore will have to be on the block.)

I already have some '99 lifters on the way to freshen up my heads. I'll probably be doing the crank ent seals as well while I'm tinkering around.

I'm going to build it up stronger without going crazy.

Over the last week, I've been itching to work on her, so I wet sanded and polished my head lights. They look great!

-John

edit: LVA3KGT, dude, renew your membership, you need to get back in there.