I have to rebuild....

[StealthRTSC]

the russian on crack down, Hope you get a block and get that car on the roll again!!

[Linebckr49]

Originally Posted by J-Groove

Wait, wait, I see a light at the end of the tunnel.

http://www.3si.org/forum/showthread.php?t=343051

My only hope is that it is still available. Would be a nice to pick up a long block for that price.

i can tell you that engine in the link is sold. its now in Vagrant's car, and running like a beauty!

Originally Posted by rush6432

Wrong the 10:1 will be just as reliable and more off boost power. its all in the tuning. if your too scared to deal with the 10:1 and affraid of blowing somthing then i dont know if you should be even doing a tt conv/swap at all. not trying to be a dick but if you can tune 10:1, then tuning on 8:1 is a joke, you have way more room for error than you do on a 10:1. i ran the single t67 for a while and beat on it quite a bit and it was reliable. prior to that i had 13ts that i DAILY DROVE in houston in stop and go traffic with a 6 puck clutch and it was still reliable as the car was when it was n/a. Keep in mind this was all 10:1 compression. also before 13ts i was daily driving with the 9bs, ALL of my turbo setups were on the stock n/a radiator too. the car will be reliable if you DONT cut corners. 10:1 can be just as reliable as the 8:1 motor. im not trying to push 10:1 here but take a step back and look at the pros and cons of each. 10:1 cant run TONS of boost on pump gas, but will spool quicker and can make slightly more power at low boost levels than a tt at ALMOST double the boost with same turbos. if you want to run tons of boost and throw big turbos on and make tons of power id say go 8:1. If you just want more passing power or 40-50 more hp go 10:1 and save yourself some $$$. If you really want to be nuts take 10;1 and throw big turbos on and see what you can do. i can attest to the stock internals being stout, the single turbo setup i ran was pushing 12 psi on pump gas and took it like a champ. take advice from the few that have gone every route, we know what we're talking about and its gonna save you money in the long run. if you want im willing to probably just give you a non turbo short block. its bare, no pistons,crank or rods. i have the gurdle at my house and the block at adams (15-20 min drive from my house) if your willing to drive down here to austin, id give you the block.

take Jeff's advice. he knows what he's talking about, been there, done that. go pick up his short block. and don't fret about getting something for free. you can inspect the block as much as your heart desires. heck, i'm sure Jeff and/or Adam will help you inspect every inch of it. good guys to get parts from.

John, good luck on getting your ride back up and running!

[Lets_rock]

Got a stripped down 99vr4 block, less than 8000 miles on it. I think I still got the internals too. Make an offer I cant refuse and I may let it go. Dont have time to swap mine yet. So I do not know if I will ever use it. Had it for couple years in my garage already.. Im in Houston...

[J-Groove]

I’m going to try and respond to everything in one quick post.

Good news is, I got some sleep last night, got up this morning for my 2 mile jog and currently on a short break b/w some classes. So I have a clear head and no longer worried about this situation.

Linebckr49: I should have known a deal like that wouldn’t have lasted this long. I’m definitely going to be taking in Jeff’s advise, heck the amount of his threads I have read during my research of this project. Almost all of my decisions are based on Rush and Mike95’s contributions on the subject.

Rush6432: Thank you for chiming in and for the offer on the block. I want to take you up on your offer for the short block, mainly because I know you won’t sell me something you know to be bad. My question is, what do you think about me reusing my stock internals in the new block? The car has 110K+ on her, and the plugs were on their way out when I pulled them the other night, but she was running like a champ and recently did a cross country trip from Texas to South Florida and back with no problems.

I do want to try and keep this under $1,000 (if at all possible) without cutting corners, I do want to try and be as affordable as possible without going cheap.

Presto97sl: I’ll be graduating in May, but I will be up in Waco from time to time. You will have to join the Baylor Driving Club, a big group of us will be graduating, but we are bringing up a good guy to take over as president. He has a Dodge Diesel flat bed that runs a 14.01. It is crazy to watch that 6K pound beast go down the track.

I’ve never rebuilt an engine before, no better time to learn than now.

-John

[Show Killer]

You'll need an engine stand. I'll sell you mine for a decent price since i won't be needing it anymore.

[AdamVR4]

Fuck.

I hate to be the barer of bad news, but Jeff, all those blocks got junked because, well, they were 2-bolts or non-turbo 2-bolts (even worse).



With that said, finding a block shouldn't be hard. Just keep your eyes open in the parts-for-sale section, you'd be surprised just how many people have blocks laying around. Look for blocks with a spun bearing (rod), but when you tear it down, pay attention to the condition of the main/thrust bearings. If they look bad, you might want to keep searching.

Ugh... I still have that oil cooler if that helps... lol



*edit* What a freakin' AWFUL way to end up with a bad block. Is there anyway the whole area can be welded? Perhaps you can try welding it, grinding it flat, and NOT using that bolt hole. As sketchy as that sounds, it sure beats a rebuild.

*edit#2* OMG I didn't see how far that crack extended.

[morfinx]

John, dude I just stumbled upon this thread during lunch break. I'm sorry to hear that, that really sucks! I hope you get it put together soon, you know I'd definitely help you with that if I was still in Waco.

I think you should take the most economical route (without cutting too much corners). Being that you are still in school, large debts should to be avoided if at all possible. Give me a call if you need emotional support lol.

[iceman_ii]

Originally Posted by AdamVR4

*edit* What a freakin' AWFUL way to end up with a bad block. Is there anyway the whole area can be welded? Perhaps you can try welding it, grinding it flat, and NOT using that bolt hole. As sketchy as that sounds, it sure beats a rebuild.

*edit#2* OMG I didn't see how far that crack extended.

Funny you should ask that, Before lunch, I shot xwire an email asking him to take a look at the pictures to get his opinion about just that!

[Barefoot]

I don't know if you know what you want to do. But if you wanted to rebuild a 10:1 engine.. or rather a 2bolt with no oil squirters, I have a spare striped (Should I use the work empty instead?) NA block lying around.

*EDIT* It spun a bearing, so the cylinder wall are in good shape

[LVA3KGT]

Hey John,
It's been a while! Sorry to hear about your engine. I'm not sure what kind of advice to give you, seems you have plenty here already. Good luck man!