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#81 (permalink) |
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bane of unintelligence
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and that's why i'll be trusting only 3sx & IPT for that job.
NEVER take your project to a place that doesn't believe in it. it's like hiring a lawyer who already thinks you're guilty. and why do you suppose there aren't many parts available to mod them and make them stronger? oh wait....that's right. NAYSAYERS!!!! |
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#82 (permalink) | |
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Forest Gump
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With a high enough stall to make the ATX really work for a 3.0 you end up with a tranny that is a bear to actually drive around. Ask almost anyone who put a high stall on their FWD cars about how much driveability you actually give up. But I guess you can toss on a 6500 stall about like 3sx had when they gave up 10 MPH trap speed for good 60FTs if you want. Say goodbye to gas mileage, LOL.
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![]() Power: DSM 13G/DR650 Combo, EVO 560cc injectors, SAFC I, K&N, Ebay Downpipe, ATR Dual Catback, no cats, DN Y-Pipe, HKS SSQV, HKS EVC 5 at 14.5PSI, Walbro 255 with AN Bulkhead 8.07 @ 85.55 1/8th mile 1.84 60FT Suspension: KYB GR-2 - Tein S-Techs, Crossdrilled/slotted rotors, AWS Delete Drivetrain: RPS Street Max, M.W. 300m O/S, Seattle F&R Poly Mounts Etc: Roller Bearing Short Shifter Smokinvr-4 Corner box, 10" Rockford Fosgate Punch sub, Eclipse Headunit Leatherseats.com Charcoal/Dove Grey Interior, 99 front end/lights/wing/sideskirts/doorcaps Maintenance New VSS, all 60K stuff, new 1st,2nd, 3rd syncro, trans seals, oil pump, rod and main bearings. Mobile 1 10w40, Redline MTL in trans, 85w90 Coastal GL5 in transfer case and rear |
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#83 (permalink) | |
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Forum Member
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Quote:
Means going larger than 450's leads to the same tuning problems TT owners get when they go larger than 720's. It can be done though but its a extensive and expensive process to make it work.
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His - Red 93 RT/tt
Mods: Hallman's MBC @ 16 psi, turbo XS type H BOV, stillen dp, custom exhaust, Spec stage 2 clutch, RPS FW, 3sx lightweight crank pulley, BCP7RES-11 @ .030 gap, autometer gauges, slightly gutted mas, dsm SMIC's, ACPT 1 piece CFDS, Tein S springs, pte 580 inj's, safc neo/SITC, 13t's, hotwired walbro, maximal performance solid motor mounts, DR plenum spacer. Hers - BPU Green 94 vr4 |
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#84 (permalink) |
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bane of unintelligence
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that's 100% right, kibwe. and that's why my "project" will go AEM from the start. i have no desire to put a high-stall on it either (definately nothing above 3k rpms). the only thing a high-stall nets you is a good launch off power-braking. i'm more concerned about quick shifts, lower drive-train loss, etc. and i want to do it in an ATX.
if i had as much money as nelson...gear vendors would already be offering an over/underdrive for our atx. an 8-speed AWD ATX in a 3/s is the pot of gold at the end of the rainbow; imho. until that happens...it's my desire to push the ATX in my car--(with brute force $$$ if necessary) until i am happy with how i have it set. if that means that MICROSCOPIC sized atx-loving 3/s community finally benefits from my trailblazing...then so be it. i have had it up to here with the idea that sedans are supposed to be ATX, and coupes are supposed to be MTX. |
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#85 (permalink) |
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Mr. Chocolate...
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Around $5,000... (for the full IPT treatment+parts). ATX AWD trannies are pretty stout. They require MAJOR cooling modifications though.
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1997 Black Top Red Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 - 93k miles and 100% stock
Cars Owned: 1992 Dodge Stealth RT (sold) 1992 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 #1 (parted) 1992 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 #2 (sold) 1993 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 (KIA) 1994 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 (sold) 1994 Mitsubishi 3000GT Base - awd/atx (sold) |
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#86 (permalink) |
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bane of unintelligence
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sounds good to me. hella easier than trying to get getrag 6-speed parts.
who knows, i may end up running FMIC for the turbos and 2x SMTC's for the tranny. i have a single tranny cooler on my fwd tt atx right now (had it since the rebuild 40k miles ago). my fluid gets changed religiously at 15k. it comes out looking as pink as pepto-bismal. i'd say i'm pretty confidant in the atx. all the more reason to start from a ROLLING CHASSIS. i can build the engine to my specs; ditto for the tranny. i've seen a few of these "rolling chassis" (pretty much complete--minus engine/tranny) for ~1k on here. when the time is right, i'll strike. |
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#87 (permalink) | |
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Mr. Chocolate...
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#88 (permalink) | |
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Forum Member
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A auto will give you consistency at the cost of drivetrain loss and traps. So a auto should be able to consistently hit the 60's that only the good to best manual drivers can hit 1.6's and 1.7's but I would guess you can shave off 2-4 mph at the end of the track. How that plays out is anyones guess but a stock vr4 depending on year and model is a mid to high 13 second car on average. The lightest models (rt/tt, and MR), have touched flow 13's and 12's in stock form with good drivers. Also note that a AWD ATX is going to be heavier than its manual counter part. I remember Slguy telling me his FWD auto tranny was heavier than my AWD manual (he knows the specs), with that you gotta figure that the AWD auto has got to be even heavier. Oh well, far be it from me to tell any of you what to like. You should know what you like and how to spend your money by now (I hope). Good luck on your projects. |
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#89 (permalink) | |
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Mr. Chocolate...
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#90 (permalink) | |
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Forest Gump
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But what the fuck ever, when we see more than one handful of AWD ATX's have ANY results, much less good results you can talk about how great they are. Please show me how that atx can last even as long as a good clutch with a medium powered car. The ATX can't even hold the 200 HP NA's if you drive them hard. |
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