how much shaft play is to much.

[DCIV]

Originally Posted by AudibleSilence

Coop, you cut that MAJOR corner, it breaks in 10 miles, you now have to spend your time removing the turbos and rebuilding them anyway while praying that nothing else was damaged in the carnage. Just do it right the first time bro.

I just want to check the engine for other problems before I go dumping money into the turbos. If things turn out ok then sure I can rebuild the turbos.

Originally Posted by Cecropia

Going TD05 and won't rebuild some TD04s?

Thanks Mike!

Name one corner I cut on it? I am not the corner cutting type, I just want to check other things before I go dumping more money into the car.


Coop

[Cecropia]

Originally Posted by DCIV

Name one corner I cut on it? I am not the corner cutting type, I just want to check other things before I go dumping more money into the car.


Coop

Adapter plates.

[DCIV]

we dont know that the its a weak point. No one has dynoed them. In that respect I am paving the way.


Coop

[DCIV]

hell snakeskinner is even looking lol.


Coop

[AudibleSilence]

Originally Posted by Cecropia

Adapter plates.

Oh Snap.

Originally Posted by DCIV

we dont know that the its a weak point. No one has dynoed them. In that respect I am paving the way.


Coop

Personally..I'd have waited on building up the engine and spent that same $ on proper manifolds....but that is ME not you Cooper. Your setup is your setup. Like Jeremy says, you are building it for YOU not for us. But at least rebuild the turbos on the Sandstone before you run it..if you do nothing else.

[AdamVR4]

I made 488 AWHP @ ~20 psi on 14B's with plates. Others, like pacman, 2mitsus, and others have dyno'ed in the 500+ AWHP range on adapter plates. Don't think for a second that you're "the first" LOL

Anyway, the big advantage to tubular headers is pump gas power, IMO.

Buy a used 9B for like $200 and put it on. It sounds like putting that turbo on ANY running engine would be a bad idea. Turbos DO have the ability to dump your engine oil at a very high rate. Do you want oil pooling in your intake or exhaust?

[DCIV]

Originally Posted by AudibleSilence

Personally..I'd have waited on building up the engine and spent that same $ on proper manifolds....but that is ME not you Cooper. Your setup is your setup. Like Jeremy says, you are building it for YOU not for us. But at least rebuild the turbos on the Sandstone before you run it..if you do nothing else.

why the heck would you do mani's before engine. I cant just add internals to the engine like I can manifolds if I dont like my results. My way is much easyer then yours. But again your way is your way and mine is mine. Think about this one second before you respond. Turbos spool at 10,000 plus RPM's. I just want to start up the car, so I can check compression, listen for rod knock, and then heck drive it around the block to listen for other problems. Do you think that me driving and boosting at say wastegate boost is going to make these turbos fly apart and break stuff? I want to know your honest thoughts. I am talking a mile, 2 at max to check for problems, if there are none at that part I will go more. But if I hear noise I am not going to keep going. I am more worried about the expensive engine then if I must 400 bucks for nice 9b's. I would put diff turbos on first but if nothing ends up being wrong with these why would i?



Coop

[DCIV]

Originally Posted by AdamVR4

I made 488 AWHP @ ~20 psi on 14B's with plates. Others, like pacman, 2mitsus, and others have dyno'ed in the 500+ AWHP range on adapter plates. Don't think for a second that you're "the first" LOL

Anyway, the big advantage to tubular headers is pump gas power, IMO.

Buy a used 9B for like $200 and put it on. It sounds like putting that turbo on ANY running engine would be a bad idea. Turbos DO have the ability to dump your engine oil at a very high rate. Do you want oil pooling in your intake or exhaust?

thankyou for responding adam, I didnt know the adaptor plates info and very happy to see that. I realize that prob isnt pump though. I dont know if the engine is running, thats what I am saying. He has never started it and bought it apart. It could rod knock like a mother.


Coop

[AudibleSilence]

Originally Posted by DCIV

why the heck would you do mani's before engine. I cant just add internals to the engine like I can manifolds if I dont like my results. My way is much easier then yours. But again your way is your way and mine is mine. Think about this one second before you respond. Turbos spool at 10,000 plus RPM's. I just want to start up the car, so I can check compression, listen for rod knock, and then heck drive it around the block to listen for other problems. Do you think that me driving and boosting at say wastegate boost is going to make these turbos fly apart and break stuff? I want to know your honest thoughts. I am talking a mile, 2 at max to check for problems, if there are none at that part I will go more. But if I hear noise I am not going to keep going. I am more worried about the expensive engine then if I must 400 bucks for nice 9b's. I would put diff turbos on first but if nothing ends up being wrong with these why would i?



Coop

Well seeing as how a good number of folks that I know with Manifolds went to a built bottom end after teetering on the knifes edge of the stock blocks limit I'd say that you'd have been fine at least for a while with a conservative street tune. Like Adam said it's about pump gas numbers more than anything, but your car wasn't going to grenade Coop, you got nervous about the mileage (even though other members all agreed you should be fine) and built it, which isn't a bad idea or a wrong one, it's just yours.

Keep in mind, that just because you aren't spinning up the turbos to full boost doesn't mean that they won't dance around and scrape the shit out of the housings further exacerbating the problem

[DCIV]

Originally Posted by AudibleSilence

Well seeing as how a good number of folks that I know with Manifolds went to a built bottom end after teetering on the knifes edge of the stock blocks limit I'd say that you'd have been fine at least for a while with a conservative street tune. Like Adam said it's about pump gas numbers more than anything, but your car wasn't going to grenade Coop, you got nervous about the mileage (even though other members all agreed you should be fine) and built it, which isn't a bad idea or a wrong one, it's just yours.

Keep in mind, that just because you aren't spinning up the turbos to full boost doesn't mean that they won't dance around and scrape the shit out of the housings further exacerbating the problem

if anyone should know about ppl talking about a build its you. Stock bottom ends have PROVEN them self, I have not over looked that. Mine had 168k, The bearings didnt look great either. Could I have gotten by for a while...yep. Would it eventually have to be rebuilt...YES. Then why not do it all at once? When it comes down to it, its very easy to say, "yeah dont rebuild" but they wouldnt have to deal with it when it did need it. Then when I did rebuild why not go all out. It cost me 2600ish to build my block. Thats 100 bucks more then a brand new one and it will take alot to break this one. But my block wasnt the topic of conversation here and infact my adaptor plates arnt either. But if you want to get off topic then thats fine.

Yep I could cause problems to the turbos but really how much could it cause to put it together and start it? Why would I rebuild the turbos when I dont know the condition of the engine? Hey lets throw so much money at it that we fix everything first before we know the condition of anything?


Coop