And the answer to the million dollar question is: Spun bearing! I'll post a video up as to why I know it's that.
kingisland3kgt - You were almost dead on. It would appear that the top half of my bearing is what bit it since when #6 is at TDC, I can push it down about 3/16 of an inch.
__________________
2008 Kawasaki Z1000 - Because two wheels are more fun! 2001 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Daily beater 1999 Jeep Cherokee Classic - Yea, another one 1998 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Why do I have so many of these? 1991 3000GT VR-4 - 13T, 550cc, E-manage, Walbro 255, AEM FPR
sorry to hear, I saw your video you posted. for the piston to move that much there is no bearing left in the rod. so looks like time for a rebuild is in order. If you need any info for parts or manuals or suggestions pm me and ill get you a list of the parts you will need to get started. Find you a good machine shop that can source you a forged crank that hasnt been reground first, considering thats going to be the hardest part to find. good luck and keep us posted.
Already have a good machine shop lined up to do any of the work I cannot. Pretty sure I'm going with a brand new forged crank, unless someone can sell me a good used one (hint hint wink wink). Definitely going to have all of the rods checked as I suspect the one on number 6 is probably WAY out of round if the bearing is completely toast.
As for manuals, I have the Mitsu service manual (is there another one I'm unaware of?) on CD. As far as parts go, Cherry Hill Mitsu is the place to go with their insanely low prices and I'm luckily within 20 minutes driving distance.
As for suggestions, I'll take them all since this car was meant to be a fixer-upper that I could sell for some profit...looking like I might break even, now. I've torn apart my fair share of engines, but this will be my first TT motor I've gotten this far into so any and ALL suggestions are welcome with open arms. For example, what else should I get checked out before I put this thing back together? What should I replace since I'm already down in there?
for suggestions a digital camera, sharpie's, masking tape and a box of sandwich bags did me wonders but there again i did all the tear down and reassembly myself.
see what the damage is after you get everything apart. then from there it depends on how much you budget to repair the engine or would it be cheaper to just drop a jdm swap in. by that time everyone will have ideas for you to look over.
for mine i went a little overboard with $4k but that was with machine work, forged pistons, rods and crank, balanced and blueprinted, gaskets, full 120k kit installed, and some other misc stuff that needed to be done or replaced while the motor was out. but then again that is all up to how far someone is willing to go during the build.
I'm not looking to do a crazy rebuild, just one that will last for the next person that buys this car. I bought this car with the intention of having a nice, easy fix, driving it around for a bit while I did some things to my car, and then most likely selling it to make a quick profit. So, with that in mind, I'm going to be going with a new oil pump, forged crank, bearings to match, and probably at least one new rod. In the past, all of my engine rebuilds had new pistons, rings, wristpins, and a bored out block. For this rebuild, would I be crazy if I reused the pistons, rings, and wristpins?
I've already stocked up on plastic ziplock bags from the dollar store and the hatch of this car is nearly filled with them. I should know more this weekend when I pull the engine and get it on a stand as to how bad the damage really is, but by the looks of it and my own personal experience, it looks bad.
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.