Help get my car done. (Drive Shaft studs) - 3000GT/Stealth International Message Center

HumanVr4 · 08-27-2008, 05:33 PM

One of my drive shaft studs are broke, it is one of the 4 studs that hold up the drive shaft. What are my options? ....besides a one piece CFDS.

I was thinking something called a coupling nut http://www.linitindia.com/images/1_h...ng%20nuts1.JPG

But I don't know if there are enough threads for it to work. So I need other ideas as well.

Jerry

jumpmaster · 08-27-2008, 05:41 PM

Weld a new stud in its place?

OhioSpyderman · 08-27-2008, 06:26 PM

I'm really sorry for this post, but after 7 months at IPS they couldn't solve this problem?

*biting tongue*

Bob.

tachyon_ftl · 08-27-2008, 06:44 PM

Quote:

jumpmaster wrote:

Weld a new stud in its place?

Yup. Is this a trick question? Human, this one you just have find a friend with a welder, or take it to a shop. This one is pretty easy, for a Mitsu.

Bob, your restraint is awesome man. Hope there's no blood!!

OhioSpyderman · 08-27-2008, 06:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tachyon_ftl

Yup. Is this a trick question? Human, this one you just have find a friend with a welder, or take it to a shop. This one is pretty easy, for a Mitsu.

Bob, your restraint is awesome man. Hope there's no blood!!

Na, no blood...just lingering questions.....

Bob.

HumanVr4 · 08-27-2008, 07:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jumpmaster

Weld a new stud in its place?

I did not think you could just weld in a new stud and it be as strong as the real one.

Quote:

Originally Posted by OhioSpyderman

I'm really sorry for this post, but after 7 months at IPS they couldn't solve this problem?

*biting tongue*

Bob.

Yes im sure IPS can fix this, Im just looking for a cheaper fix or a new idea that noone has not thought of yet. Also about the 7 month thing, 2 or 3 months of that was me trying to pick out the right parts then 2 was waiting on a group buy for rays head lift fix to go down.

Quote:

Originally Posted by tachyon_ftl

Yup. Is this a trick question? Human, this one you just have find a friend with a welder, or take it to a shop. This one is pretty easy, for a Mitsu.

Bob, your restraint is awesome man. Hope there's no blood!!

Same as first poster I did not think that would be the best way to fix it. Im looking for new ideas, that are cheep. IE under 200 bucks, cause if it is over that I will order a CFDS and be done with it.

If this is going to turn into a IPS bashing thread or talking down on their work I will delete it. I think Im the only person who can judge the work they are doing on my car and as of now, everything is perfect. Some times its hard to judge how someone is coming off in a forum so if I am taking it wrong my apologizes.

Jerry

jumpmaster · 08-27-2008, 07:54 PM

Quote:

I did not think you could just weld in a new stud and it be as strong as the real one.

A good weld will be stronger than the surrounding metal. I used to work for Pratt Whitney refurbishing jet engine turbines. (welding stress fractures) I can't count the number of times I have seen stress fractures in steel where you would have thought the weld would have failed first.

tachyon_ftl · 08-27-2008, 08:34 PM

Human, sorry didn't mean to pull your chain. The weld will be fine; jump is right. And I doubt that the coupling nut will work, because you won't be able to get the spacers (that sandwich the flange on the carrier bearing) down over it.

The weld itself will take about five minutes. The rest will be getting the car on a lift, dropping the prop shaft (if it's on there now) grinding down the old stud and then cleaning and then finally welding in the new one.

I can't see this as more than 1-2 hours, max. But, yeah, it'll be $100 - $200 which sucks, unless you know somebody with a welder and can do it yourself. But, whether you can or can't, having the remains of the old one ground off and a new stud welded in is really the only way to go. Good luck with it!

08-27-2008, 05:33 PM	#1 (permalink)
HumanVr4 ZoomZoom? Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Oklahoma City Drives: 97 VR4 Trader Rating: (7)	Help get my car done. (Drive Shaft studs) One of my drive shaft studs are broke, it is one of the 4 studs that hold up the drive shaft. What are my options? ....besides a one piece CFDS. I was thinking something called a coupling nut http://www.linitindia.com/images/1_h...ng%20nuts1.JPG But I don't know if there are enough threads for it to work. So I need other ideas as well. Jerry __________________ 1992 Silver 3000GT VR4 BPU 1997 Black 3000GT VR4 Fast Stuff: IPS Stage 3 block with Pauter forged rods and CP pistons , DR Stage 3 heads with High Rev Valve Spring Kit and Titanium Retainers AND Rays head lift fix , IPS EVO 3 kit with turbo porting and Ceramic coating, IPS 272 Cams, IPS Fuel rails, fuel rail loop, Aeromotive A1000 FPR, PET 780CC Injectors, South Bend Stage 4 FE clutch, IPS NO-MAF intake pipes, 2 AEM Dry flow filters, AEM EMS, AEM map sensor, AEM IAT sensor, IPS intercooler kit w 750hp Spearco core, RPS flyweel, 2 HKS BOV, MSD 8.5MM wires, MSD Coils, Stillen downpipe, 3 inch custom exhaust W Apexi N1 tip, 3sx aluminum crank pulley, Walbro fuel pump, hotwire fuel pump kit, solid motor mounts, EGR block off Kit, red top Optimia battery, Flexalite twin 12" fans, Koyo aluminum radiator, polished front/back valve covers, polished plenum, polished throttle body, IPS polished coolant pipes, manifold / downpipe turbo hot side polished ceramic coating, Turbo intake side polished. Interior&Audio System: Corbeau CR1 Seats In Black, Corbeau Black 3Point Harnesses, Apexi AVC-R Boost Controller, Apexi Turbo Timer, Defi-Link Meter BF Gauges In White, Boost/Psi, Water Temperature, Oil Presure, AEM Wideband, SmokingVR4 Duel 10Inch Sub Box, 2 PPI 1000 Watts RMS Subs, Alpine IVA-D901 In Dash Flip Out Screen With Nav. Suspension: KYB Struts, Tien S. Tech Springs, 19X9 SSR D5R in bronze with a polished lip, 245/35/19 Toyo Proxes T1R, Proracer Racing Lug Nuts in red, Rear Strut Bar. Body: Viper alarm system, 8,000k HID. www.ipsmotorsports.net www.dynamicracing.com www.kormextrans.com

08-27-2008, 05:41 PM	#2 (permalink)
jumpmaster Verified Seller Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Wichita Falls TX Drives: Slow in Fast Lane Trader Rating: (23)	Re: Help get my car done. (Drive Shaft studs) Weld a new stud in its place? __________________

08-27-2008, 08:34 PM	#8 (permalink)
tachyon_ftl '96 VR4 Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Hollis, NH Drives: It's spos'd to move? Trader Rating: (12)	Re: Help get my car done. (Drive Shaft studs) Human, sorry didn't mean to pull your chain. The weld will be fine; jump is right. And I doubt that the coupling nut will work, because you won't be able to get the spacers (that sandwich the flange on the carrier bearing) down over it. The weld itself will take about five minutes. The rest will be getting the car on a lift, dropping the prop shaft (if it's on there now) grinding down the old stud and then cleaning and then finally welding in the new one. I can't see this as more than 1-2 hours, max. But, yeah, it'll be $100 - $200 which sucks, unless you know somebody with a welder and can do it yourself. But, whether you can or can't, having the remains of the old one ground off and a new stud welded in is really the only way to go. Good luck with it!

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