Greddy EBC help

[MiVR4TT]

I am having some trouble with my new greddy profec II spec B. I have it in and I am trying to tune it and no matter what I do I cannot get it to do anything. All I get is waste gate pressure boost. Not matter what I do to the settings it doesn't change. I have attached a picture of my setup but I will also try and explain it. Also the greddy reads a vacuum of half of what my autometer boost gauge reads at idle. I get about 18 psi at idle with the gauge ad only 9.0 psi with the controller.

I have the fuel pressure line that goes to the head unit tied into the FPR line.

I have the "NO" line coming out of the controller unit going to a t in the line coming from the y-pipe

I have the "COM" going into the 4 way that goes to the wastegates. Any suggestions? Thanks.

Jason

[aaronatstate]

According to your picture you just T'd into the stock vacuum line coming off the y-pipe. If so that is your problem, as you are effectively tying the NO and COM ports together.

If you did, try this. I ended up doing it because it made my profec b spec ii behave better.

Take 2 equal length vacuum hoses and run them from the wastegates to a T, and then run a line from the T to the COM port on the solenoid (the T will be somewhere around the water neck). Next run a line from the y-pipe to the NO port (this line has to see pressure only so it needs to be before the throttle body). Remove all other vacuum lines, and cap off the port on the rear turbo inlet pipe. This should make it work properly.

Also the Profec B spec II only reads to negative 9.9psi. Your boost gauges when not in boost reads in inches of mercury (inHg), not psi, you cannot compare the two with out converting.

[MiVR4TT]

Well I re-routed everything like suggested above and I get the opposite result. The boost spikes hard under throttle so I can't barely get into it. Any other suggestions..?

Jason

[MiVR4TT]

bump...

I tried re routing the pressure signal to the head unit because I was getting an O2 code. I tied it into the same line as the boost gauge and the pressure still is not the same. This routing made the code go away but I still can't get it to control boost.

Jason

[95gto]

Try this:

tap the nipple coming off the back of the plenum for the boost metering source. Run equal length lines from the turbos to a t-fitting and run that to the output side of the actuator. Then run the boost source that comes off the back of the y-pipe to the input side of the actuator.

This should fix your problems. Then just start out with the unit set to a pressure close to wastegate and make small adjustments until you get the unit dialed in the way you want it.

[lawdogg]

Assuming you get it routed correctly, take a look here:

The Pansy Patrol » Greddy Profec B Spec-II: Tuning Tips for 3/S owners

[MiVR4TT]

How can I run equal lengths to each of the waste gates? I am looking at a foot to the rear max and 3-4 to the front. Can I coil the rear tubing? Thanks.

Jason

[lawdogg]

Jason:

Yes, coil the tube if you want. Mine is just chilling near my tranny.

-Ryan

[scrapiron7]

Did you remote both clear plastic plugs out of the solenoid? I had a similar problem and that was the cause.

[MiVR4TT]

I rechecked everything tonight and one of my caps blew off so that explains the behavior like a boost leak. I rechecked everything and went out again and when the head unit is switched off I get a spike to about ten and then hold to about 6 (which sounds like wastegate only pressure to me) but with the unit on I get a little bit more boost (maybe 1 psi) but I can hear the controller unit under the hood clicking. It only happens when I have the head unit switched on. Any suggestions? I am going to try and make the two leads o the wastegates the same next.

Jason