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#1 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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The top of my front struts make a pop noise when turning the wheel. Looking at CAPS I think I need to replace the strut assembly, the spring seat assembly, and the upper spring pad.
The service guide shows that you need two special tools, a "spring upper seat holder" and "coil compression tool". Can anyone tell me if it can be done without these tools? And is this a job I can tackle on my own - easy or hard?
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'95 VR4: Billet grill, K&N FIPK, short throw shifter, MBC, Greddy BOV, Syncromesh fluids, HHH Logger. .
Last edited by TurboVR4 : 07-07-2008 at 11:52 AM. |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Paid Member
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you need a spring compressor to do it. that and the basic wrenches and whatnot.
its time consuming. but depending on how nice of a compressor you have. not too hard. i had a crappy one and i changed out all 4 springs in one day. the only difference, instead of putting a new spring on an old shock, you would put a new shock on an old spring.
__________________
92 sandstone vr4
dr-500 turbos custom made exhaust fipk walbro fuel pump more to come |
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#3 (permalink) |
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getting there
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You don't need the spring upper seat tool, the upper seat can be held carefully with a vice, or a large channel lock pliers can also be used. Stealth316.com has an intrax spring install guide which has pics dismantling a strut assembly.
The popping noise comes from a stuck bearing in the strut insulator assembly. The strut pivots with the bearing when you turn. Pay attention to the alignment marks on the eccentric bolt before you remove the strut - marks need to line up the same when installed.
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1991 TT. K&N FIPK, DNP Y-pipe, '99 lifters, Hallman mbc, Greddy RS BOV, Tein S Techs, 3SX DP, H-flow cat, Moda MD1 19x8.5
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#4 (permalink) |
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CUSW Co_Prez
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could this be an all of the sudden thing or does it pop right off the bat when you, say, change the strut.
I have a popping sound coming from my front pass side and i have replaced the struts with kyb gr2's about a year ago and i did it by hand by myself. it didnt start popping until about 4 months ago |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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Anyone know if I'll have to remove the entire strut from the car just to replace the strut insulator? Is there a way to compress the spring under the wheel well to remove/replace the strut insulator, seat, & pad?
Last edited by TurboVR4 : 07-07-2008 at 01:59 PM. |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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Anyone???
I guess what I'm asking is if I can use the spring compression tool, while the strut is still attached, to allow removal of the self locking nut on the strut insulator. Can I replace the insulator without having to completely remove the strut? I don't think I can remove the self locking nut if there is still pressure from the spring as it will fly off, right?. . . And after the old insulator is removed will the piston rod remain extended so to allow the self locking nut to fit over the new insulator? |
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#7 (permalink) |
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getting there
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You will have a much easier job of insulator replacement if you remove the strut. You need to hold the upper seat with a vice, channel lock, upper seat tool, whatever you choose, because the strut shaft will turn when you turn the self locking nut,. when holding the upper seat, the strut shaft is also held.
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#9 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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When i changed my springs to eibach, I borrowed a spring compressor from autozone for free. you might want to try that.
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92 3000GT SL
18'' Enkie CDR-9's w/ Khumo supra estca Ebiach springs Venom Fuel Pump Venom 400 module atx to mtx swap fidannza flywheel ACT 2600 clutch momo shift boot and pedals NGK plugs & Accel wires authenic Bomex body kit(not instaled yet) seattle shortthrow shifter 3sx crank pulley maximal performance motor mounts ek2 downpipe Kormex LSD and last but not least an Eddie Bauer baby seat in the back!!! |
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