I had mine flicker between tour and sport erratically for a few days and then nothing at all. Both were not lit. I found that I had a bad front cap. Hire was bad. Changed it out and it worked again.
Ditching the ECS is up to you. I love it. I use it. I will not get rid of it. I am going with TIEN S springs to drop it but still use the ECS.
Shooting for almost completely stock. Smart and nearly invisible upgrades to make the ultimate GT cruiser the platform will allow.
Mods: Latitude 42 HID projector conversion, Snake-Eyes headlight controller, Renegade Tech Works full 3 stage ECS, Full interior Dynamat (the right way), Fuel pump relay bypass, Poly front and rear motor mounts, Tein S Techs, R1 Concepts cross drilled/slotted rotors, gutted pre cats, K&N drop in filter.
White 1992 Stealth RT/TT (Stock)
White 2011 Ford Crown Vic (Company Car)
Another German toy on extended leave with me by it's owner.
Direct drop in replacement for the stock ECS computer. Allows you to manually select 1 of 3 modes "yes I said 3" for strut dampening. Also has a built in diagnostic check to check the system out and the functionality of the struts. Plus - Removes the linking to the ECU so it will never again interrupt or mess with the TPS signal to the ECU and cause the car to run like shit....
No I did not build this or am I selling these. I just happen to be running one of them!
93 Stealth TT CX Racing FMIC, Snow Perf Meth, 3sx DP, Megan SS Exhaust, FuelLab FPR, Walbro FP, MP Solid Mounts, All -6an Lines, Intrax Springs, AWS/ABS/Cruise Delete, MP Rear Control Arms, SS Brake Lines, 99 Front Conversion, 2nd gen Rear Bumper, Complete interior LED Swap
Is there any way to cycle the ECS shock manually? Can you hook up a jump box to it or something?
That's pretty cool! My front struts are stuck in sport mode and I'm 99% sure my rear is stuck in tour mode
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