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#103 (permalink) | ||
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Former ROTY :-}
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I've watched this thread and I just wanted to add that ALL 3 of our cars idle flawlessly at just about 750 RPM's.
92 TT, 93 VR4 and a 95 Spyder VR4.... Bob. ![]()
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#104 (permalink) | ||
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Forum Member
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Quote:
(note this was with engine warm, because if cold the FIAC is going to allow some air to bypass) It sure seems like extra air is getting in somewhere. Quote:
I am having the same experience as OhioSpyderman, after replacing my ISC/IAC, mine is idling perfect. .
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-Ron
'91 Stealth TT purchased Aug 2004 ![]() Last edited by 3Sfever : 02-14-2008 at 09:45 PM. Reason: qoute fix |
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#105 (permalink) | |
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Hammer
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Although you are screwed now that you messed with the BISS screw, even with a new ISC you will have a messed up idle now. Hint never ever turn the BISS screw. You never have too. If the car is stock and a new ISC does not fix the idle then most likely cause is a bad ECU. Assuming the BISS screw is still in stock position. It could be gas or spark problems but those would show up in other areas besides idle. |
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#106 (permalink) |
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One too many projects...
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Well I really havent spent a ton of time on it, I was just a little frustrated when I wrote that, I have since simmered down. I do know what you mean though.
I do have a newer ISC, it isnt the brown one, it is all black, do those "go bad" like the original brown ones? When I have it out and plugged in, and turn on the ignition, it does screw in a bit, to allow air to enter. When I shut it back off, it spins back out. I would assume that if my ISC is bad, it wouldnt do that. For the heck of it, I yanked the front valve cover to see if any of the lobes looked bad, and they all looked fine. So at least my grinding noise isnt coming from there... I just wish it was warmer out. My truck is in the heated shop in the process of going back together. I would think that most people with an idle problem have touched the BISS, why do you say I'm screwed? I know of another stealth that is a half hour away, maybe some afternoon he'd let me swap ISC's and see if that makes any difference. Wouldnt hurt... Thanks for those who are still listening to me complain about my car. Someday it will be nice to drive... ![]() Edit, I forgot that it still does have a miss after plugs and wires. Could a plugged/non working injector cause a bad idle and "chugging"?
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'92 Pearl White R/T
Driver, pretty much stock. ![]() 1967 Dodge D200 5.7 HEMI 1971 Dodge Challenger 383/727 ![]() |
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#107 (permalink) |
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RTBOOST
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WhiteR/T, when you had the ECU apart, did you notice if any of the traces were damaged? I took my ECU out of my R/T TT the last time I was home on break and while it was definitely repaired before, I'm almost positive it's causing my problems 'cause there is some crap underneath one of the capacitors. Sorry you're having so many problems with your car. I figured it was a pretty good deal for the mileage/condition back when you asked about it. I assumed the chugging problem was just from these cars wanting to run in a higher RPM range than we're used to...Turns out, they are supposed to be like the other cars, but be more fun than others when they are running correctly. This summer I'm probably going to send my ECU/ECS out to AvPro or ECMToGo.com, so I'll definitely let you know if that corrects the problem. I also plan on getting a new ISC, doing a pressure test (probably half my problem), and cleaning the injectors (new O-rings, too). I have newer coil packs, wires, and plugs in it now, so that shouldn't be my problem. I have noticed that when my stuttering occurs, it sounds as if I am arching/spark cut, so hopefully it's something to do with just the ECU.
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'73 Dodge Challenger 340.............................(X)
'91 Firestorm Red Stealth R/T TT...................(X) ![]() |
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#109 (permalink) | |
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Regulator...
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okay... if you have the "original" ecu in your 91-93... 99% of the time its got broken traces. Just because you change out the caps means the broken traces are still there.
hhmm how do you pressure test a NA car?
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#110 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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The purpose of the BISS screw IS to adjust the idle. . . . the one we normally do not want to fool with is the SAS screw. It holds the throttle plate open just a tad to keep it from touching the side of the body bore.
The Wiki has a good writeup on the adustment of these: http://www.3si.org/wiki/index.php/Idle_Speed_Adjustment . |
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