Coolant flow to throttle body - still necessary?

[Intropy]

Yeah I personally LOVE the deletes I have done. It's his car, he can do whatever he wants. Just IMHO this particular delete isn't worth it.

[jba3]

Originally Posted by jackhammer

interesting, mine is bypassed and it still idles high when cold until it warms up. I thought that was a function of the IAC servo.

Originally Posted by GTO NEMESIS

Mine has been removed since 2004 as has the idle control valve/motor.
Car starts from the window (No foot on gas) and ticks over fine.

If you know how to tune and are not running a stock ECU then remove it and compensate for it in the standalone/piggyback.

Mark

I'd delete mine only if I had something to compensate for it with. Warmup idle speed is controlled by the ISCV on the evos, so it can just be reflashed. If your 3S has the capability to alter the warmup for the car so that the delete doesnt affect its functionality, I think it's worth it. Just like EGR, vac reduction, etc.

BTW, Clint is one of my heroes. Especially looking at his accessory belt routing, and my having to do TWO alternators on stock belts. I cry in a corner sometimes from stock VR4 engine bay memories.

[xsputnikx]

I think some engine bay mods are great and if it can get rid of clutter and does not cause any defect whatsoever then why not.. but on the same token I think in terms of resale value stock is best..

some people wont buy unless car is stock.. and some people want to buy a car that all the work has already been done so they dont have to fool with it..

Its your car.. and by all rights to do what you want with it.. the only thing I cant stand seeing is people getting in there tearing stuff apart that dont know what there doing then selling it off to an unaware customer thing its stock then they get on here goin wtf was the previous owner thinking..

for example I found a couple vacuum lines on my 92 vr4 that were routed incorrectly lol.. and the clutch on my car kep getting feedback as I revved the motor came to be that somebody removed the 1 way check valve on the car that goes to the clutch booster

[JimVR4]

Originally Posted by xsputnikx

the only thing I cant stand seeing is people getting in there tearing stuff apart that dont know what there doing then selling it off to an unaware customer thing its stock then they get on here goin wtf was the previous owner thinking..

for example I found a couple vacuum lines on my 92 vr4 that were routed incorrectly lol.. and the clutch on my car kep getting feedback as I revved the motor came to be that somebody removed the 1 way check valve on the car that goes to the clutch booster

Exactly. What's even worse is doing mods that are unreversible, like welding up the FIAV. The only way back to stock after that is a new throttle body which costs > $600 last time I looked.

[jba3]

Slowboy Racing has FIAV blockoff plates for around $20. I hope people aren't welding stuff. I kept all the parts from my vac reduction, so I can go back to stock if I wanted to. I'd always sell a car with the parts to go back to stock if posible.

[AWDSOLDIER]

I would'nt do this delete, when I was doing my engine build in feb I had the engine on the stand for about a week after it was done. I was jus making sure everything was good and at the same time I was looking for ways to make the engine bay cleaner. Anyway one of my buddys that was helping me with installing the motor is a dsm guy.. so he said that I should delete the coolant lines cause all the dsm guys do it and they have no probs at all...so I did it by jus looping the lines and capping the thermostat housing..

When I fired the car up everything was perfect zero leaks...then as I was trying to dial the car in after the break in I noticed that no matter what I did I could NOT get the car to idle properly, warm or cold period !!!! This got to be real pita cause here I was showing people my new setup and someone would always ask me what was wrong with the idle ? After rechecking everything and I mean everything.... I asked myself... what did I do different and the only thing I did different was the throttle body coolant delete ...so I reconnected them, and ALL idle problems were 100% gone ....So its jus my opinion and I know all cars are different, but I would not do it if I were you because after a fresh build you have so many things to keep an eye on you don't need the hassle of trying to figure out an idle issue and be worried thats its a build issue.

Also, I jus replaced the lines and fresh quick release clamps that make it a snap if I do have to disconnect them...


Later

[D@GE]

Originally Posted by DCIV

Slowboy Racing, Inc. :: Mitsubishi :: DSM :: Intake :: Misc. Intake Parts :: JMFab 1G FIAV Block Off Plate

This is what I am talking about.


Coop

Coop you posted the wrong plate, that's the one that deletes the IAC as well, this is the one to keep the IAC and block the FIAV

Slowboy Racing, Inc. :: Mitsubishi :: DSM :: Intake :: Misc. Intake Parts :: JMFab 1G FIAV Bypass Plate

I'd hate to see someone buy the other one and post a thread about their car not starting/idling, also I don't have coolant going to my TB and I've never had a problem and I live way up in the great white north

Kyle

[i3igpete]

Originally Posted by JimVR4

The only way back to stock after that is a new throttle body which costs > $600 last time I looked.

or you can buy one in the classifieds for < $40. i have one for sale.

[94ATXVR2]

True that, I have bought 2 throttle bodies and paid 30 dollars for each. I also have the JMFab block off plate which eliminates fiav and isc on my DSM and I wouldnt have it any other way.

[Forest Gump]

LOL, look at his signature. I'm SURE he's worried about his car not appearing stock, HAHA.

If we were all stock we'd all be running high 13s and I'd have popups, lol.